Friday at the Count's with Chris Bublitz

It was a relaxed Friday night outing at the Count's place in Queens, where we welcomed Chris Bublitz to NY. It was also great seeing Fernando Losada and Bob Fyke again. Dinner was a lovely spread of tomato and mozzarella salad and a great rice, beet and swiss-chard pilaf, another of Sveta's successes in the kitchen. As to be expected, it was an impressive lineup of wines. The only letdown was the corked 01 LAN. One could tell under the TCA that this would have been impressive.

• 1981 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese 90 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Light lemon color. Beautiful creme brulée nose with notes of honeysuckle and lemon curd. Just barely off dry on the palate although this could pass as a dry wine, with racy acidity and a creamy texture, clean finish. A bit simpler on the palate than the nose.

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• 1990 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese Nr. 92 91 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Light to medium gold color. Very interesting nose of petrol and pine forest floor. Mouthcoating on the palate with racy acidity, very earthy and piney for a Riesling.

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• 1995 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Deep ruby with a slight garnet tinge to the rim. Big nose with leather and barnyardy notes, bright red cherry syrup and garrigue. It's a rustic profile. Medium bodied on the palate with bright cherry and strawberry notes, fine tannins and a slight bitter edge to the finish.

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• 2000 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Caillou Les Quartz 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Deep ruby color. Presented somewhat closed on the nose, but it opened somewhat over the course of the evening. Floral aromas and complex minerality, with plum and black cherry compote, and a touch of meatiness. Full bodied and silky on the palate.

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• 1998 Burge Family Shiraz Draycott 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Deep ruby to garnet color. The nose was surprisingly Bordeaux-like in character, with a touch of band-aid, cocoa powder, very complex mixed spices, blackberries and tobacco leaf. Medium to full bodied on the palate with fine tannins. This is a South Australian Shiraz that does not play to type.

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• 2001 Bodegas LAN Rioja Edición Limitada Flawed

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Corked! Too bad.

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• 2005 Alcina Cellars Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard 90 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Medium ruby color. Fragrant nose of red raspberries, dusty pepper and some minerality. Full bodied and mouthcoating with prickly acidity, lots of sweet red berries.

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• 1989 Bert Simon Serriger Herrenberg Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 92 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Light lemon color. Elegant nose of creme brulée, pears and apples, petrol and a pretty perfumy herbal character. Off dry on the palate, mouthcoating with great acid balance. Somewhat less complex on the palate than the nose.

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Thanks to Mikhail and Sveta for hosting the evening. The company made it special.