Terroir-istes New World - Sauvignon Semillon-Warm Climate

The second of two Sauvignon - Semillon tastings, in which tonight's is warmer climate expressions and next month is the warmer expression, although some crossed territory.

• 2022 Bodegas Lagar de Pintos Albariño 92 Points

  Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas

  (Tasted Blind) Lightly fragrant aromas of Bosq pear, jasmine, lemon zest and rock scree.
  An energetic wine that has a gorgeous, zesty acidity that cuts through the core of rich orchard fruits, giving the wine freshness accentuated by a saline, mineral edge and bursts of lemon. A long clean finish is marked by persistent acidity and more wet stones than dry scree—very smartly made.
  100% Albariño, cool SS ferment

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• 2022 Shabo Winery Sauvignon Blanc 86 Points

  Ukraine, Odessa

  (Tasted Blind) A light golden straw colour with an odd mix of sun-exposed Seckel pear, and red Gala apple, combined with dry cardboard, slightly unripe papaya, green leaf, smoke and chemical cupboard.
  The palate is super tight and narrow with a noticeable metallic, chemical quality that quickly broadens to show mouldy orange and sweet nougat candy elements. Weirdly, I found only moderate acidity, yet with a phenolic texture that kicked in later than that, then tapers the finish quickly, almost masking the fruit expression in the process. The finish is challenging, pausing awkwardly on "sweetness AND bitterness" rather than the fruit itself. Something intriguing, yet strangely disjointed.

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• 2023 Vergelegen Estate White 92 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  (Tasted Blind) (formerly GVB White)
  Mid lemon in colour with a streak of green. A light touch of reduction dissipates quickly, revealing granadilla, pink guava, white grapefruit, Langra Mango and tangerine flesh, accented by nettle, white asparagus, and pine needle.
  Gorgeously intense, the palate has a bracing, penetrating acidity that courses through the palate with a core packed with juicy lime, grapefruit, chilled granadilla and tropical fruit. There is a glossiness other than the wine with decent extract and a long, rich finish closing on oranges, herbs, and a Fanta grape. Some found the wine a touch one-dimensional, and its youth was working against it currently, but I felt it had great appeal.
  A blend of 56% Sémillon, 44% Sauvignon Blanc with the SB grown at 320m asl. WBP, barrel fermented and matured in a combination of foudre, barrel, and stainless steel. TA 7.2 g/l, pH 3.19, RS 1.6 g/l.

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• 2022 Andre van Rensburg Artisan Wines Sauvignon Sémillon 87 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  (Tasted Blind) Light to mid lemon with a touch of SO2 at first and then pronounced greener filtered notes of sherbet lemon, mandarin, pomelo, green olive and sileage. As it opens, grilled grapefruit skins and lychee surface, accompanied by a whisper of white chocolate.
  The palate is upright and taut with a fabulous line of etched acidity. The mid-palate has some sherbet and mouldy lemon skin but is quickly joined by a lightly chemical nougat character, vegetal note, and some remarked cow dung (!) that appealed less.
  Narrow in shape, this light to mid-bodied wine has a persistent green sheen, but it works less effectively through to the finish, which is sullen, slightly phenolic, and lacks the carry of the best examples. Closes with a tang and brininess that is angular.
  A blend of 93% Sauvignon Blanc, 7% Semillon. Fermented in concrete eggs before transferring one-third to 500-litre Austrian oak barrels (20% new), then matured for 10 months. No MLF

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• 2024 Groote Post Seasalter 90 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Darling

  (Tasted Blind) An ashen lemon-green colour with vibrant aromas of guava, granadilla, mineolas and lemon sherbet that mingle with nettle, sea salt, nori sheets and a bright herbaceous streak.
  A lean, linear palate shape with fresh, sprightly acidity and a dainty flow. Focussed and with clarity, this light-bodied wine has saline infusions and subtle bitterness on its greener citric edges. The mid-palate penetration feels modest, but the wine is fresh, elegant and textural. Although I found it a bit watery on the exit, the nose outshines the palate.
  A blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Sémillon. Sourced from Darling Hills at 250m asl. on sandy granite soils. 30% of Sauvignon Blanc is barrel‑fermented and aged for 8 months in 600‑litre French oak - the rest fermented in SS on fine lees.

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• 2023 Savage Wines White Blend 85 Points

  South Africa, Western Cape

  (Tasted Blind) A pale lemon colour with a nose that is reductive but rather dull, giving off a pong that takes time to lift. Coaxing reveals only brief glimpses of lemon thyme, yellow grapefruit, green apple, kiwi fruit and snow pea. The palate has a creamy richness against a saline-infused lemon but feels odd—savoury, phenolic, and broad, with a shape that strays far from classic Sauvignon/Semillon character. Bitter and short on the finish, it comes across as awkward and unresolved, with a slow ferment funk and little sense of harmony. Upon reveal, this has to be a dodgy bottle, knowing its inherent quality.
  A blend of 76% Sauvignon Blanc, 24% Semillon from sandstone soils in Elandskloof and Villiersdorp. Fermented and aged in barrel, with full MLF. Extended time on lees.

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• 2021 Chamonix Reserve 83 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Franschhoek Valley

  (Tasted Blind) Pale straw to mid-lemon with bi-polar notes of initially ripe grapefruit, guava and yellow apple contrasted with smoke, capsicum, snow pea and grass that has an edge of reduction. Feels green-picked and late-picked sun-exposed bunches, giving a sense of premature evolution. The palate has some richness but is disjointed with some phenolic bitterness and a broad, leesy texture obscuring varietal freshness. Scattered lemon and apple do surface, and the finish has some white chocolate, but ultimately it led to a sharp, unsatisfying exit.
  A blend of 54% SB and 56% semillon. Used around 20% whole-bunch fermentation and 14 months on lees in French oak (approx. 20% new), with partial malolactic fermentation (~20%)

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• 2021 Tokara Director's Reserve White 92 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  (Tasted Blind) Very pale lemon in colour with light green edges. Delicate aromas of pinecone, nettle, green lemon leaf, sea spray, cut grass and a whisper of granadilla, turpentine and coriander seed.
  The entry features an interplay of spices, with lemon taking centre stage. Some kumquat and juicy grapefruit notes are lurking, all underscored by an edgy, snappy acidity with a texture that provides some phenolic grip and tramlines for the wine to sashay and flow along the palate. A concentrated wine with impressive freshness that finishes fairly long. Those slightly turpentine, terpene notes suggest some bottle age, and it closes with a light smoky quality.
  A blend of 68% Sauvignon Blanc and 32% Semillon. WBP and fermented in a mix of stainless steel and 37% new oak barrels, then aged on lees.

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• 2022 Quoin Rock Namysto Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Sémillon Sauvignon Blanc 90 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  (Tasted Blind) A pale to mid lemon colour with aromas of fennel seed and tarragon, melded with blackcurrant leaf and English gooseberry, with touches of mandarin.
  It is notably intensity displaying a mineral-edged, vibrant acidity along with a core of focused citrus; as it opens more herbal tones and an injection of cucumber slices. While there is a lingering freshness the palate is somewhat narrow and lacks depth. The wine has some complexity but leans heavily towards Sauvignon Blanc. A medium finish with a gentle sweetness akin to orange juice with a herbal khakibos relief.
  A blend of 96% Sauvignon Blanc, 4% Sémillon that is sourced from South-facing Boskloof (Agulhas) and Quoin Rock (Stellenbosch). Aged on fine lees for 4–6 months with batonnage.

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• 2023 Delaire Graff White Reserve 90 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  (Tasted Blind) A mid straw colour with some yellowing edges. Enthusiastic aromas of ripe tangerine, apricot fruit roll, and satsuma segments are overlaid with guava, nettle, cut grass, and star anise, with rising musk sweets, lanolin, and terpenes as it opens in the glass. The wine is richly textured, with an orange-infused citrus sweetness enveloping its bright, lightly salt-edged acidity. While the roundness is inviting, the wine lacks tension in some areas and feels slightly flat. Despite this, it finishes long with orange sherbet tones.
  A blend of 83% Sauvignon Blanc and 17% Sémillon. Both components are barrel-fermented, then blended and returned to the barrel for an additional five months, resulting in a total maturation time of 11 months in 330L French oak barrels.

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