Riesling Masterclass with Stephen Metzer

This tasting was a side tasting from his masterclass on worldwide Riesling made by Stephen on the 19th February.
The excerpts include: Many top sommeliers and wine professionals genuinely believe Riesling is the finest white variety on the planet. It is the only grape that can produce world-class wines in every style — bone-dry, delicately off-dry, lusciously sweet, sparkling, noble-sweet — while always tasting unmistakably like Riesling. Razor-sharp acidity, electrifying minerality, explosive aromatics (lime, peach, jasmine, petrol), and an almost unmatched ability to reflect terroir and age for decades… no other white grape even comes close.
The original flights included a multitude of overseas examples but in this tasting we mostly stuck to the German examples
Flight 1 – Origin
Where does Riesling shine? We compare classic German examples with benchmarks from Alsace, Austria, Australia, and the New World to see how terroir shapes the variety.
- We only taste the one from Australia as an introductory drink

Flight 2 – Styles
The incredible stylistic range: steely dry, crisp sparkling, classic feinherb/off-dry, richly fruity, and noble-sweet. Riesling does it all — and does it better than anyone else.

Flight 3 – Quality & Prädikat
Understanding the German Prädikat system (Kabinett → Spätlese → Auslese → BA → TBA → Eiswein) and how ripeness level and botrytis transform the wine while the acidity remains the backbone.

Flight 4 – That’s Why Riesling!
The icons. The legends. The bottles that make you understand why grown men and women have been known to cry over a great aged Riesling.

Whether you’re a Riesling fanatic or still think all German wine is sweet (spoiler: it isn’t), this tasting will change the way you think about white wine forever.

• 2019 Pewsey Vale Vineyard Eden Valley Riesling 87 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley

  Light yellow in colour, with invigorating aromas of sherbet lemon, freshly picked lime and yuzu, delicate white flower notes and some chalk dust.
  The palate seems more reserved with a herbal, stem-like extraction that yields a slightly phenolic edge. While there is mouthwatering acidity and lighter citrus notes, it finishes somewhat short of its aromatic promise, leaving a pleasant minerally impression.
  Eden Valley fruit, the wine is wild fermented in SS. Soils are shallow, sandy with quartz and schist gravels.

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Baden · Rheinhessen · Rheingau
Baden (6.1 % Riesling, warmest German region)
- Climate & Terroir: Germany’s sunniest and warmest wine region (Kaiserstuhl volcanic soils, Ortenau loess/loam, Breisgau limestone). Earliest ripening → naturally fuller-bodied Rieslings.
- Style: Riper stone-fruit spectrum (yellow peach, apricot, mirabelle) with broader, rounder acidity. Little to no sharp lemon/lime “Mosel bite”. Often a subtle spicy/smoky edge from volcanic soils (sometimes called “Klingelberger” locally). Less pungent, more generous and approachable young.
- Typical profile: Dry to off-dry Grosses Gewächs (GG) or VDP Erste Lage with 12.5–14 % alcohol, creamy texture yet still fresh.
- Ageing potential: 10–20 years for top examples; most drink best 3–12 years.
- Price point:
- Everyday/literal: €9–18
- Good estate dry: €18–35 (Salwey, Bernhard Huber, Franz Keller)
- Top single-vineyard GG: €40–80
- Rare to see >€100

Rheinhessen (18.4 % Riesling, largest region, most diverse)
- Climate & Terroir: Protected by hills, warmer than Mosel/Rheingau. Huge soil variation: loess/loam in south, limestone in west, red slate/iron-rich clay in the Roter Hang (Nierstein/Nackenheim). River-facing sites = broader fruit; east/south-east slopes + higher elevation = more iron oxide → distinctive spiciness (white pepper, ginger).
- Style: Widest range in Germany – from fresh supermarket Sekt base and easy-drinking liter bottles to the most powerful, concentrated dry Rieslings on earth. Red-slate sites (Pettenthal, Hipping, Brunnenhäuschen) give the famous spicy, smoky, dense style. Keller’s wines are the ultimate expression – massive extract yet vibrating energy.
- Ageing potential: Top dry GG 25–40+ years; sweet Auslese/BA easily 50+ years.
- Price points:
- Supermarket/liter bottles: €6–12
- Solid estate trocken: €12–25
- Very good single-vineyard (Wagner-Stempel, Wittmann, Battenfeld-Spanier): €25–55
- Top tier GG (Keller, Wittmann, Gunderloch): €60–180
- Iconic Keller G-Max (current release/auction): €1 600–2 800+ ex-tax (average Wine-Searcher ~€2 068)

Rheingau (77.6 % Riesling – highest proportion in Germany)
- Climate & Terroir: Rhine River acts as a heat reflector, south-facing slopes. Soils: quartzite, slate, loess, Taunus quartz. Classic cool-climate but with perfect exposure → extreme elegance.
- Style**: The most linear, steely, “classic” German Riesling expression. Razor-sharp acidity, pronounced tart citrus (green apple, grapefruit zest), wet-stone minerality. Bone-dry Grosses Gewächs dominates today; traditionally, also legendary noble-sweet (Schloss Johannisberg, Kloster Eberbach). Everything screams precision and tension.
- Ageing potential: The longevity champions. Top dry GG regularly 30–60 years; great Spätlese/Auslese from good vintages 80–100+ years (many 1976s/1959s still stunning).
- Price points:
- Good estate trocken: €15–30
- Solid single-vineyard: €30–70 (Künstler, Leitz, Spreitzer)
- Top GG/Erste Lage (Schloss Johannisberg, Robert Weil, August Kesseler): €70–200
- Rare museum releases/BA-TBA: €300–1 500+

Bottom line:
Want generous, spicy, early-drinking power → Baden or red-slate Rheinhessen.
Want the longest-lived, most aristocratic, nerve-driven Riesling → Rheingau.
Want absolutely everything (including the single most expensive dry Riesling in the world) → Rheinhessen.

• 2010 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Roter Riesling 87 Points

  Germany, Rheingau

  (Tasted Blind) Deep gold with orange-tinged edges, the nose shows ardent aromas of barley sugar, candied orange peel, and kumquat with some almond shavings, offset with a lightly oxidative character.
  Off dry, this medium-bodied wine has a discordant feel, with refreshing juiciness giving roundness in parts, whilst a razor-sharp acidity in others suggests it circles around its Riesling acidity rather than being anchored by it. Some light stone‑fruit notes emerge with dried orange peel and red apple, even a hint of evaporated milk! There is a phenolic grip reminiscent of aged Spätlese, yet the wine's structure feels unsettled. A moderately long finish, this is more a curiosity than anything, with the wine unable to unite its disparate elements.
  13g/L RS. The estate has been owned since 1818 and comprises roughly 17 ha of vineyards, of which approximately 5% is Roter Riesling. Feinherbspätlese

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• 2012 Andreas Laible Durbacher Plauelrain Riesling Kabinett trocken 90 Points

  Germany, Baden

  (Tasted Blind) Pale lemon in colour with an airy bouquet of white flowers, lilacs, fridge-cold lemon and elderflower with a whisper of almond and apricot.
  A narrow entry guided by strident acidity that frames apple and floral tones. There is an apricot-skin texture adding some light grip, and the wine opens to a rounded mid-palate. Fresh and low in alcohol, this is an elegant, well-crafted wine with reasonable length.
  Dry Kabinett from Plauelrain, fermented and matured in stainless steel from the Ortenau region of Baden on steep, mineral-rich soils. ABV: 12%

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• 2016 Gunderloch Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Großes Gewächs 92 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  Tasted Blind) A pale lemon colour with vivid aromas of lime sherbet, grapefruit, yuzu fruit and cold stones with a touch of thiolic lift, with blackcurrant leaf, crystallinely cool. A dry, linear palate is marked by a strikingly tart acidity, further enhanced by sherbet-like lemon and lime peel. A seriously energetic wine with some mid-palate has respite as yellow apple and white peach flesh calm things down. However, this is a wine that holds a nervous tension as it builds to a long, saline-infused finish that just hints at a touch of kerosene.
  45 hl/ha. ABV: 12.5%

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• 2011 Domdechant Werner Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Kabinett 91 Points

  Germany, Rheingau

  (Tasted Blind) A mid golden colour with aromas of candied lemon, barley sugar and creamed honey tempered by minerals and wet slate that, as the wine opens, further reveals touches of apricot and yellow mango.
  The palate has breadth, with a richer, sweeter orange barley note, definite spiciness, and a warming embrace. Feels warmer, with more fullness and body than a typical Kabinett. Some lively acidity threads through the mid-palate, delivering a well-made example that shows a touch of maturity. 91-92
  Hölle vineyard is an old Riesling vineyard dating back to 1435. Sited on chalky, mineral-rich soils

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Rheingau: Berg schlossberg

Phalz: Kastenbusch is a sought-after site. Some Pinot Gris is also there. Very close to the Alsace border.

Mosel: Sonnenuhr.

• 2020 Künstler Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 92 Points

  Germany, Rheingau

  (Tasted Blind) A pale lemon colour with intense floral-edged aromas of white flowers, Alpine herbs and apple blossom - youthful and pungent. Touches of almond, stone and mineral slowly emerge in the background. A linear, focused entry, bone-dry with an invigorating razor-edged acidity that sits on a light, creamy mid-palate to deliver bright, penetrating wine. The acidity is demanding, whilst encapsulating youthful tension and promise, it will need time in the bottle to unwind.
  A steep, south-facing site (up to 60° incline) composed of quartzite and red slate. ABV: 12.5%

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• 2019 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Großes Gewächs 96 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  (Tasted Blind) A mid lemon colour with intense beckoning aromas of herbs, lilac and yellow flowers with tinges of grapefruit, lemon balm and minerals through to yellow mango, tropical fruit punch, minerals and clotted cream - thrilling!
  The palate is fabulously delineated, with pulsating acidity that guides an opulent palate that has lees-infused creaminess atop apple puree and lemon zest, with a pinch of spice. More weight than a Mosel with impressive concentration and some phenolic grip (phalz), the wine manages to retain a pristine clarity and elegance that is astounding. It wheels to a winding saline-infused finish-wow!
  Biodynamically farmed, Rebholz is perched on steep, south-facing slopes (220–320 m) with red slate (“Rotliegend”) soils rich in red sandstone and granite.
  ABV: 13%.

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• 2019 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 94 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  (Tasted Blind) A pale lemon colour with markedly ripe yellow apple, gardenia, apricot, peach and tangerine with a light body odour and veering to a sweet apple sauce but nuanced by wet slate and lemon zest.
  Delicately off-dry, suggesting Spatless with a richness and intensity that confirms. Riper fruits with a juicy core are aided by an animating acidity. Elegant with excellent concentration, this is a wine with precision, with judicious sweetness that displays a tropical bent as it thrusts towards an elongated finish that again shows some saline and lemon-lime notes.

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All off dry and all Mosel
All blue schist

• 2020 Weingut Lorenz Riesling Blauschiefer feinherb 92 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Tasted Blind) A pale lemon colour with appetising aromas of ripe apple, apricot, white flowers, elderflower and a touch of spice and wet slate. The palate is linear, fresh, and off-dry, defined by crunchy apple-edged acidity and a sinewy texture. Long, cooling and focused with a youthful energy. Nicely detailed.
  The Blauschiefer site translates as blue slate

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• 2019 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb "Meyer Nepal" #11 91 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  (Tasted Blind) A pale lemon colour with a precise nose of green/white apple, almond, Anjou pear, white peach, slate and wet stones with a blob of creme fraiche suggesting lees contact. The palate feels richer and broader than a typical Feinherb, with ripe fruits and creamy texture. The wine has vibrant acidity and apple pulp sweetness. The sweetness seems more glucophilic in nature, less integrated and serrated than the previous, and is noticeable against the mineral core. A mid-length finish; solid, but would have liked more integration.
  Organically farmed, wild-fermentation.

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• 1990 Weingut Leo Schwab Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 95 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  (Tasted Blind) Mid golden in colour, with heady, captivating aromas that weave mint-humbug, flower shop, citronella, peach and pineapple together with a whisper of earth and button mushroom. On the palate, emergent mushroom nuance, apricot, and mango add to the mix, shaped by a piercing mineral-driven acidity that flows on a patina texture. There is richness here, yet the sweetness sits harmoniously and is integrated. A long, expressive finish makes this a superbly refined example.
  Score: 94–95/100

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All Mosel Wines except one...
- Wurzgarten
- Altarchen west side
- Altarchen- in the middle of the loop

• 1989 Norbert Schmitz Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 93 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  (Tasted Blind) A light amber gold that suggests some maturity. Flamboyant aromas of gardenia, lilac, mint-humbug, orange peel, and almond paste converge with astonishing exactness. Off-dry with ripe fruits tempered by a vivacious acidity to sculpt a glassy-textured, ethereal-shaped body. Low in alcohol, with a smoky nuance that slowly unfolds into burnt orange peel and tropical mango echoes, culminating in a vibrant, long finish. Fabulous for its age.
  ABV: 11%. Grown on steep slate slopes

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• 1975 Conrad-Bartz Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese 96 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  (Tasted Blind) A mid gold with orange‑tinged edges. Intense tangerine peel, candied orange, mango, peach, rooibos and golden apple all mingle in a complex, powerful bouquet. A piercing acidity spars with mid-palate richness on a glassy texture. Rich and gently sweet, the core shows marmalade, golden apple flesh and iced tea. Elegantly styled with a resonant richness and excellent concentration, this is a refined wine. Deep and complex, and pure fruit continues to a lingering finish - seamless and exceptional.
  Sourced from the revered Brauneberger Juffer site.

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• 1969 Norbert Schmitz Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 98 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  (Tasted Blind) Deep golden amber with a glowing orange rim. A highly expressive bouquet filled with mint-humbug, burnt orange peel, Blenheim semi-dried apricot halves dipped in syrup, peach iced tea, mango, candied orange rind, spice, and fynbos honey, melding with button mushroom and iodine that speak to its age and resulting in a fabulous tapestry of aromatic intensity!
  The palate exudes a dazzling balance of fine acidic tension, a fine glass-like texture, whilst maintaining a contrasting rich marmalade-like density, medicinal edges and wet linen. The wine glides effortlessly over the palate, supplying layers of fruit, classic integrated sweetness and a long, harmonious finish that has a seamless combination of fruit, honey, and acid - remarkable poise and age-defying clarity!
  Ürziger Würzgarten has blue slate soils and steep, sun-drenched slopes.
  The two bottles had, respectively, 2.5 cm and 3.5 cm below the corks.
  Interestingly QmP-based Auslese labelling was not enforced in 1969.

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• 1976 Weingut Emil Kautzmann Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling Beerenauslese 99 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  (Tasted Blind) A light tawny brown with an intense orange meniscus. Striking mint-humbug, fynbos honey, orange marmalade, lemon zest, and exotic fruits meld with richer earthy tones of fallen leaves whilst raisin notes deliver those PX tones - deeply expressive.
  The entry is captivating, with its blend of sweetness and precision, underpinned by a vibrant acidity that maintains freshness amid the richness, as honeyed fruit and spices unfold in the mid-palate. Remarkable concentration, yet with a surprising elegance and refinement, laser-like precision and remarkable length. A citrussy brightness brings it close. An extraordinary Beerenauslese!
  Birkweiler Kastanienbusch is situated on steep, south-facing slopes with red slate (Rotliegend) soils.

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• 2009 Paul Cluver Riesling Estate Wine 89 Points

  South Africa, Cape South Coast, Elgin

  A pale lemon colour with a sprightly lime zest, lemon blossom and apple give a fresh, aromatic lift that is evocative of Clare Valley Riesling. A vivid fruit clarity on entry with chalky sherbet acidity that offers an invigorating mid-palate. Linear in shape, the wine sustains good intensity to a long, enduring finish. A touch of age is evident, yet it remains vibrant

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• 2018 Kleine Zalze Chenin Blanc Project Z 90 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  A mid lemon colour with Forelle pear and ripe apple aromas that are fresh and clean. A little more structured than the preceding Rieslings with a chalky phenolic grip underpinned by a crunchy acidity with sherbet lemon and apple, with a hint of leesy notes. A longer finish leaves a textural imprint of orange peel and subtle tannic grip. Expressive, yet its phenolic element slightly tempers its integration, but goes some way toward explaining its experimental ambition (in amphora). 89-90
  Fermented and matured in amphora.

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• 2018 Capensis Chardonnay Silène 90 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  A light yellow colour with some slight evolution with lemon verbena and pineapple joining lime blossom, tangerine peel, white pear and apple with a whisper of oak spice. Vigorous, zesty acidity gives the palate freshness despite some clear oak influence. Phenolic grip gives structure, while pureed orchard fruits and a hint of mango soften the mid-palate. A mid-length finish, warmed by toasted spices, perhaps a little red spice.

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• 2015 Bosman Family Vineyards Pinot Gris Supernature 87 Points

  South Africa, Cape South Coast, Walker Bay, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley

  Gently lifted aromas of strawberry, chilled white melon and nectarine with a touch of Pink Lady apple, mineral and dry spices. A fairly appealing wine that delivers a more heated spiced fruit medley on the mid-palate yet retains sufficient freshness to keep it alert and expressive. However, as the wine warmed, the exit was a little bothered by the red spices despite its commendable length overall. Hmm…could have benefited from greater integration. Initially 85/100; given the wine’s strengths pushed upwards.

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• 2016 Kaapzicht Estate Chenin Blanc Kliprug Flawed

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  A muted nose that suggests possible cork influence rather than inherent reduction, with the fruit notes being suppressed. The palate confirms.

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• 2018 Elsenburg Chenel 86 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  Light, pale straw with gentle, lightly fragrant aromatics. Neutral profile reminiscent of Hunter Valley Semillon, giving that soft citrus, faint apple skin, and subtle florality.
  A little phenolic on the palate with lemon peel pithiness. Better intensity on the mid-palate with a minerally lift. Flavours of dried orange peel, with traces of peach flesh.
  Different and characterful, though overall slightly simple. Phenolics add shape but also blur definition, adding a chewiness to the back palate

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• 2021 Tesselaarsdal Pinot Noir 87 Points

  South Africa, Cape South Coast, Walker Bay, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge

  Notes of ripe strawberry, rose, cranberry, and jammy red berries on the nose carry into a hot, spicy tone that takes over.
  Whilst there is a solid core fruit presence, the mouthfeel feels somewhat lightweight and stringy with a notable stemmy peppery character that adds texture but diminishes balance. Some vibrant acidity with soft tannins lands a reasonable finish, but the spice and heat detract.
  Helmed by Berene Sauls; fruit from Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge.

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• 2020 Momento Chenin Blanc/Verdelho 92 Points

  South Africa, Western Cape

  Delicate floral scents mingle with orchard fruit, Cape gooseberry, dry stones and lemon pith. There is a graceful elegance on the palate, swept along with a rush of fresh acidity as apple and pear join touches of crushed oats leesiness and some salt-infused lime zest. A lovely texture with sme breadsth and grip to the mid-palate this has excellent length with a flourish of citrus and flint on the close.
  A blend of Chenin Blanc and 34% Verdelho from older bush vines across Paardeberg, Bot River, and Voor‑Paardeberg; WBP (using a basket press), native fermentation and MLF with 10 months in neutral oak.

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• 2012 Kanonkop Pinotage 93 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch

  A deep garnet colour that is earthy and brooding at first, with ripe plum, raspberry ripple ice cream, blackcurrant and damson woven into tobacco, forest floor, smoke and vanilla, with a touch of exotic spices and purple flowers.
  Commendable intensity and clarity on entry with a fresh acidity that balances a dark fruit core with robust yet fine-grained tannins that deltas out to a plush mid-palate that has a subtle sweetness from chocolate ganache and Costa Rican coffee beans. Full-bodied and refined, the wine remains vibrant at nine years of age, with precision and a long, intense finish.
  Grown on decomposed granite and Hutton soils with old vines aged up to 59 years. The wine spent 16 months in 75% new French oak.

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• 2015 Migliarina Wines Chenin Blanc 88 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  A pale straw colour has light aromas of apple, peach and spiced pear with a touch of grapefruit and citrus zest - a touch evolved. The palate has an apple-skin texture with clean orchard fruit flavours, bright acidity and a lingering finish. Graceful and delicate rather than overt, perhaps veering to simplicity.
  Old bush vines form both Swartland and Stellenbosch. WBP with 50% in barrel (natural) and 50% in stainless steel. Matured for 9 months on fine lees in tank, with a small portion matured in 300L barrel. No MLC.

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• 2006 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 95 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Cape Peninsula, Constantia

  A deep orange–amber with exotic, florally inspired notes of apricot blossom, honeysuckle and elderflower layered with dried orange peel, ripe mango flesh, pineapple slices in syrup, raisin, baklava, toasted almonds, butterscotch, and preserved ginger- just a hint of pear drops too.
  A bold wine that shows an initial phenolic grip that softens into prune, raisin, and orange marmalade underpinned by a prismatic strand of vibrant acidity. Lush and sweet, the wine delivers mouth-coating richness reminiscent of PX but with enough acidity to carry it through to a remarkably long and persistent finish. Exceptional complexity and poise; this seamlessly sashays across the palate. Fantastic!
  Muscat de Frontignan grapes—often over numerous passes—the 2006 vintage spent nearly four years in maturation. ABV: 13%; RS: 170 g/L; pH: 3.55, TA: 7.15 g/L.

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