Cafe Carmellini - New York NY
Tasted Thursday, November 20, 2025 by Burgundy Al with 129 views
Late time small glass. I probably had this wine over a dozen times, but not in a decade+. Back in the day I found enormous bottle variation and tonight's bottle was certainly one of the best I ever tasted, and even one of the freshest. Complex red and black fruits almost reminiscent of Leroy's Clos de la Roche with very good depth.
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Late night small glass. I had these Leroy 2004s many times a decade+ ago and never really tasted a bottle of the Nuits St Georges that thrilled. Tonight's was the same, less interesting than the other cuvees, and certainly the most advanced.
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Late night small glass. Mostly mature black fruits with dollops of cooked mushroom and braised meat. Good depth, enough richness.
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Late night small taste. Fully mature black and red fruits with soy and plenty of earth. Hard to see any further upside.
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Late night small taste. Past its peak.
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Late night small taste. Fully mature with lingering back fruits well accompanied by savory and sweet spice, layered and nuanced. Charming.
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Late night small note. Clear sense of power here, but seemingly not very giving. Of course this was likely already open for many hours by the point I tasted it.
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Late night small taste. Opulent and fat aromas and flavors with exceptional depth. So much richness and depth with good structure, but I think this likely to be enjoyed best in its youth and middle age, not to be lost in the back of the cellar.
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Late night small taste from magnum. Glorious black fruits with so much enough, easily enough freshness, and wonderfully engaging with great length.
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Late night small glass. So much here but we just saw hints. Backward and teasing us tonight. Needs time or lots more air.
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Late night small taste. Here is a wine that needs more attention than a small taste over a few minutes allows. Structure is still firm and rugged with so much more still waiting to come out of the shadows. Lots here to enjoy is a different setting.
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2022 Bernard Dugat-Py Corton-Charlemagne Vieilles Vignes 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Starts out very rich with floral, apple and lemon peel, then quickly brightens up. Great length and energy on its finish.
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2014 Jean-Claude Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Spiced aromatics with lots of floral support. Intense yellow and green apple throughout nicely rich but still taut and firm in the middle. Great length. Back to form, this was so much better than a disappointing bottle a few months ago.
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2022 Lamy-Caillat Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Floral with lemon and apple aromas and flavors. Wonderfully rich but just as well textured. Long, persistent finish. Great already with lots of upside.
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2015 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
No surprise for Raveneau to start out reductive, and while this was big and dense on the palate, I was unable to get a fair sense of the wine tonight in context of the small taste and limited time to give its the required attention. But I am very optimistic for its future.
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2011 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Enticing floral and spiced aromas with an array of orchard fruits. Not particularly powerful on palate, but elegant and nuanced. Very good now.
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2002 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Fully mature Apple and peach aromas and flavors with butterscotch, hazelnut, and black truffle notes. Good now.
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2001 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Small taste. Still faintly reductive start, but hardly problematic. Rich and opulent aromas and flavors that seem mostly mature, but never fade. Balanced, explosive finish.
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2018 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Faint reduction, but issue there. Lightly floral with apple and lemon, taut middle-to-finish, good+ length. Better in another year or three.
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2012 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
My first time trying this vintage, I had very high expectations given its reputation. And while this was certainly good, perhaps I didn't give it enough time to show its range. Rich and dense indeed, which were great, but I found it slightly lacking nuance and the multiple dimensions expected.
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1995 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Very nice and nuanced, but fully mature with as much earth as fruit.
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2023 Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Bright red and black fruits are almost delicate, almost lacy, and fully accessible already, although there is a nearly firm structural spine running all the way through. Elegant from the beginning with sneaky good length. This is not your father's Dugat-Py, or more accurately, not Loïc's father's.
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2005 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Fully mature red fruits with more sweet than savory spice. Certainly good now, likely better a few years back.
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2022 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Alongside Vieilles Vignes. Red and black cherries and berries throughout with soft, silky tannins. although very harmonious and tasty with good depth. But clear further upside.
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2022 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Alongside the "Classique," this showed an even broader array or red and black fruit, much more spice and meat notes, along with more firm structure. While the tannins don't necessarily get in the way, they are asking for more patience, which I will gladly provide in the future. Great potential from a decade from now.
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2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
It was not universal consensus, but most of us thought this slightly corked.
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2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
A great wine still in its infancy. Showy and nearly ostentatious right now, but you can't look away from its brilliant the glamour. So Vosne-spiced expressive with exceptional density.
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2022 Domaine Bizot Vosne-Romanée 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
An alluring sex kitten with plump red fruits, so much spice and good weight for its level.
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1995 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées 87 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
From magnum. Surprisingly still alive even if tired, showing good weight and depth.
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1989 Louis Jadot Le Montrachet 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Ripe apple and baked apple with excellent Grand Cru density. Certainly fully mature, but with the stuffing and enough acidity to continue holding in there. Quite a treat.
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2009 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Spiced and floral start with apple and pear aromas and flavors, but certainly the most advanced bottle of this typically great wine I have encountered. The Bienvenues '09 tasted next was much better/ fresher.
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2009 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Both fresh and dried green and yellow apple with floral, minty support, very good weight and density, ending with plenty of zip. Much brighter/ better than Bâtard 2009 also tasted.
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2017 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
A true powerhouse with so much intense apple and candied lemon peel. Dense, structured, with enough structure to notice, but never take center stage. I adored this wine when last tasted (pre-release at Domaine Leflaive) in 2019, and still think I love it now but there is some good reduction masking its full breadth of charm. 95-96 point potential?
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2008 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Meaty powerhouse with so much black and red cherry and black berries with hints of roasted and braised meat with the corresponding spice. Dense but so well balanced already. Tried shortly after being popped-and-poured, but still showing so much despite not being given the chance to show its full potential. 95-96 point potential. Just a baby.
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2010 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux 96 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Opened 60-90 minutes before serving. Bright red fruits start-to-finish, savory spice emerging in the middle and lingering on the finish. Seamless and lithe textures. Brilliant tonight, maybe even more to come?
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2008 Domaine Dujac Echezeaux 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Opened 60-90 minutes before serving. Bright red fruits with spice galore, but actually more harmonious vs the same wine tasted from 3L (given more air) a few weeks ago. Luscious and so fun tonight.
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2010 Domaine Dujac Echezeaux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Red cherry and berry with spice hints, but just a shadow of the 2008 vintage served alongside. Nothing like what I find with top 2010s at this stage, but granted this is my first time with Dujac 2010 Echezeaux. OK this didn't get much air before serving, but still a very perplexing bottle. Off bottle? Too young?
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1996 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Corked
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1996 Domaine Dujac Clos Saint-Denis 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru
Brilliantly perfumed aromatics with both sweet and savory spice, floral charm and an abundance of fresh enough red fruits. This almost completely follows through into the flavors which are rich and complex with good weight. I have typically found Dujac's Clos St Denis best 10-20 years in bottle, and then starting a slow fade into the sunset, but tonight's bottle is the best this wine has ever shown for me.
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1990 Château Montrose 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe
Bold black fruits with cassis, meat, and leather. Powerful and rich throughout. Mostly clean with just the most faint hint of something dirty, which isn't all bad.
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2007 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 89 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
A wine that I have either never understood or enjoyed, this seems to be getting duller and more lethargic with age.
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2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
I haven't tasted this wine in a decade and it continues to impress. OK it might not have its normal density, but its charming and wonderfully elegant, plus so well spiced without any bitter edges. One of few 2004s performing at the same level it might in a normal vintage.
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1988 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Open 2 hours before serving. More black than red fruits, showing some earth but much fresher than could ever be expected at this age. Spice and meat notes add an entirely additional level of complexity. So much to enjoy.
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1999 Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Opened a few hours before serving. Dense black fruits with plenty of structure just off center stage, so wonderfully balanced. Great depth and weight. So much better than another bottles earlier this year from the same source.
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2000 Bernard Dugat-Py Mazis-Chambertin Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Opened a few hours before serving, which ended up as a mistake because the wine was ever-so-slightly corked. Beautiful when opened, the cork taint then flourished.
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2005 Domaine de L'Arlot Romanée St. Vivant 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
So much great baking spice with bold red cherry and berry. Wonderful balance, everything seamless already now, which is rare for 2005. Glad to have a few in my cellar. When l'Arlot succeeds, the wines are like fine bottles of Dujac, but sometimes whole cluster is all you get. This wine is excellent now, with even further upside from here.
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