CWG Tasting - Italian Benchmarks

Gabrielskloof, Bot river
Tasted Thursday, August 11, 2022 by rikipedia with 54 views

Introduction

Dominic Nocerino is obsessed with sourcing premium and top-quality wines. Vinifera Imports has been in the business since Dominic's father founded the company in 1979, and he prides himself on bringing the best Italy has to offer into the USA.

For tonight's tasting, Dominic opted for a selection that serve as reference points for where Italian wine is at the moment; also, wines that most assuredly express prime areas and appellations across the country. All wines are Italian from small to medium producers and give a picture of what premium Italian wine is all about - and how good the wines can be when put in the right hands. In most cases the chosen wines are shown in relative youth and with considerable bottle age to show how they develop over time.

Dominic says: "Most of these producers are working the same way they have for decades, so without trying to be relevant or progressive they are mostly farming organically, making wines with indigenous yeasts and no additions besides a touch of sulphur at bottling. The way I explain it is to imagine the wines are made by the Flintstones."

And, like a Flintstone, you're likely to go to sleep tonight as soon as your head hits the pillow.

Thank you for joining us and we hope you enjoy the tasting.

Peter-Allan Finlayson

Flight 1 - Introduction Wine (1 Note)

  • 2020 Crystallum Chardonnay Ferrum 91 Points

    South Africa, Cape South Coast, Overberg

    (Tasted Blind): A deep and mineral-driven nose with aromas of orange peel and ripe tangerine segments. The wine shows good intent on the palate, with spirited acidity, pithy texture, and saline notes that support ripe orange fruits. A touch phenolic on the close.

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Flight 2 - I Pentri (2 Notes)

I Pentri is a small, family-run winery in Campania with ten hectares under vine on the hills of Sannio Benevento, between Monte Taburno and the south-eastern Matese. Farming is organic and all wines are all made using fruit from their own vineyards. The winery was established in 2002 to delve into terroir driven wines focusing on Piedirosso, Aglianico, Falanghina, Fiano and Malvasia.

  • 2019 I Pentri L'Amore delle Api 89 Points

    Italy, Campania, Beneventano

    (Tasted Blind) Light orange in colour that yields aromas of fresh clementine and Valencia orange dominating with that Bordeax-like chalk dust note before opening to just-ripe mango towards tropical, tarragon and kumquat. This mid-bodied wine is ripe with a pithy, phenolic mango-skin texture and mild acidity. The mid-apalet is all dried and fresh orange peel with some kakkebos herb that has plenty of depth and concentration. However, the wine does have a slight bitterness, reminding me of chalk and rubber. The wine could benefit from more acidity to enhance its structure. Similar to white Rhone, there is a touch of liquorice underneath.
    Fiano vineyards are planted at 350m asl. on schist and sandstone soils.

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  • 2012 I Pentri L'Amore delle Api 94 Points

    Italy, Campania, Beneventano

    (Tasted Blind) Deeper orange in appearance. A powerful fragrance of frangipani, honeysuckle, and ripe clementine and tangerine augmented by toast and marmalade. It is a dry entry yet with sweet fruit and immense concentration that shows incredible depth, a penetrating vein of acidity that runs horizontally through the wine. The theme continues as orange and satsuma as oak toast appears throughout this vibrant wine that has elegance helped along by a light chalky texture. Very smart wine that is fresh as a button!
    2012 was a warmer vintage, yet the wine retained its acidity.

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Flight 3 - Fontodi (2 Notes)

Since 1968, Tuscan winery Fontodi has been run by the Manetti family, who for centuries have been involved in the production of the region's other famous export - terracotta tiles. Perhaps unsurprisingly there are more than a few clay vessels in the cellar. The winery has 70ha of certified organic vineyards from which its entire production is harvested. Outside of a small cuvee made from Lamole, all of Fontodi's vineyards are in the heart of the famed Conca d'Oro or "Golden Shell" in Panzano in Chianti. The soils of the Conca d'Oro are formed largely of the schistous rocky clay known locally as galestro. Besides Chianti Classico and their flagship IGT Flaccianello, which they are best known for, Fontodi also produces small quantities of Syrah, Pinot Noir, Malvasia and Sauvignon Blanc.

  • 2019 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT 93 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT

    (Tasted Blind) Mid to deep ruby, the wine has savoury leather aromas, accompanied by ripe red cherry, cranberry, liquorice and warm tar, all with a rose tea infusion. A lovely, bright entry with a sour cherry acidity, a firm, leathery texture (a slight rubbing feel), and a touch of dark chocolate, coffee grinds, and earth. The tannins are compact and tightly wound with the acidity accentuating them, yet the sweet cherry flesh nourishes them. A long, persistent finish, this full-bodied example needs further time to fully resolve.

    Fontodi is located in Panzano in Chianti, specifically in the Conca d'Oro (Golden Shell) amphitheatre, in the southern part of the commune of Greve in Chianti. The vineyards are organically farmed at 400-500m ASL on south-facing slopes. Panzano is in the northern part of Chianti Classico, with abundant galestro (friable marl/schist) and alberese (limestone) soils - the same galestro that gives Sangiovese its characteristic minerality.

    100% Sangiovese from a selection of the best fruit across multiple estate parcels (rather than a single vineyard since 2001. Fermented with indigenous yeasts for approximately 3 weeks with extended skin contact. Aged for 18 months in French oak barriques (40% new), then transferred to large oak casks (25-50 hl) for a final 6 months. A small portion (2%) is fermented and aged in Manetti terracotta amphora.

    60,000 bottles annually

    2019 was an excellent vintage in Chianti Classico, characterised by balanced weather that was neither too hot nor too dry, though marked by extreme summer heat, relieved by late July rains. The vintage produced complex, structured wines with good acidity and ageing potential. Generally very good across Tuscany, though some areas experienced hail and uneven conditions.

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  • 2009 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT 95 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT

    (Tasted Blind) Mid to deep ruby colour. Savoury and fragrant aromas of shiny leather, reminiscent of leather jackets and fly spray, intrigue, morphing to ripe red cherry, cranberry, juniper (like cranberry sauce), touch of hibiscus, rhubarb and plum - it feels sultry like a warm summer's evening! A bright, full-bodied entry, the wine has compact, leathery tannins assuaged by softened, warm cherry flesh, liquorice notes, tomato stew, spicecake and dark chocolate. The sour, tangy acidity spotlights the tannins, which exert a more granular, rubbing sensation (like hot gravel) as the wine closes, suggesting they need further time to resolve in the bottle. Layered, this wine promises a fabulous future, already showing excellent concentration and terrific complexity. 95-96

    Made from 100% Sangiovese and fermented on skins for 35 days, after which it was matured for two years, with 30% of the wine in new French oak and six months in 25-50 hl casks (less than usual).

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Flight 4 - San Giusto a Tentennano (2 Notes)

San Giusto a Rentennano is in the southernmost part of the Chianti Classico in Gaiole. The estate began life as a medieval monastery of Cistercian nuns and portions of the ancient fortification are still used for cellaring. Fully organic certified since 2006, the primary focus is Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva and their flagship IGT Percarlo. There are also various smaller bottlings of Merlot and a dessert wine. The various soil types across the 160ha estate are rich in clay, sandstone, and galestro. Since the mid 2000s the farm has been 80% solar powered.

  • 2018 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT 89 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    (Tasted Blind) A light to medium ruby-red. Playful aromas of cotton candy, wafer biscuits, warmed bonbons, melted milk chocolate, and sweetened nuts evoke the nostalgic aromas of a funfair, but a slightly lifted, smudged note of volatility cannot completely hide. A medium-weighted entry with breadth to the mid-palate offers a fruit expression that is more pastille-like, with sweet, steeped red fruits of cherry and plum and some blackberry interspersed with firm, sinewy tannins. A warm richness is accented by savoury and umami notes, underpinned by a mineral edge and fairly dense tannins. Despite the ripeness, it remains elegant and finely structured, though that hint of volatility slightly distracts, compromising its precision. Quite generous on the finish.

    15% ABV the wines is made from 100% Sangiovese and fermented in larger format foudres (uses the Burgundian approach), stainless steel and cement prior to maturation in oak. Grown at 270m elevation on a mix of clay, Galestro, and sand, the vineyard is in the southern part of the Chianti Classico region, closer to Siena than Firenze and thus, the wines are more bloodied and more like Brunello than Chianti Classico. 2018 was dry and healthy, though it was brutally hot near harvest and accelerated picking. Certfied organic since 2000.

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  • 2012 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT 92 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    (Tasted Blind) A light to medium lustrous ruby colour. Deep and brooding savoury bouquet of leather, blood, cigar and furniture polish woven with dried red fruits of red cherry, raspberry and cranberry accented by liquorice and some chopped mint. Some age on the palate with those savoury umami notes. Firmly structured, with thick, compact tannins, this is an intensely concentrated wine with a sour-edged acidity that gives it some tension.
    The fruit sits in the background, making the wine quite challenging and raw, with little to soften it. Peeking out are notes of mint humbug, potpourri and balsam. The wine has great persistence and power, and laying it down should soften its edges.

    To do something with 100% Sangiovese, aged in French oak for 22 months. 2012 was a warmer, drier growing season. The owner conducts 3 triages in the vineyard: the first for Chianti Classico, the second for Chianti Classico Riserva, and the final for Percarlo. It is grown in southern areas at lower altitudes on sandier soils. It has a lower elevation (550m) than Galestro (an estate in Southern Chianti Classico, only 10 km from Pionzano).
    In Northern Chianti, Galestro soils, the wines have lift and elegance; whereas in the south, it is sandy. Slightly west, and the soils are a mix of 25% clay (that helps give colour to the wine), 25% Galestro, and 50% sandy (Tufa). It is a little estate about 1/5th the size of Fontodi.
    100% Sangiovese, super Tuscan, first vintage Percarlo = 1983,

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Flight 5 - Canalicchio di Sopra (2 Notes)

It's all Sangiovese all the time at Canalicchio di Sopra and the resulting wines are routinely rated among the best expressions of Brunello di Montalcino. 2020 marked the winery's 50th vintage - three generations of winemaking has seen Canalicchio play a key role in establishing the esteem of the DOCG. The vineyards in Canalicchio are located on the north east side of the hill of Montalcino at 300m altitude on clay-rich soils while those at Montosoli are further north, between Montalcino and Siena, with rockier, well-drained soils meaning deeper-rooted vines that bring salinity and minerality. Most of the wines made at Canalicchio di Sopra are blends from the two sites but the focus in coming vintages will increasingly be on single vineyard expressions.

  • 2016 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 92 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    (Tasted Blind) Light to mid garnet with lifted savoury notes of cola tonic, forest floor, umami and a distinct metallic, ferruginous quality. Full-bodied, the savoury elements continue, with firm, dense tannins blanketed by a fleshy texture and red fruits balanced by a mild to medium acidity. There is a notable iron-filling character, and richer tomato-box and Assam tea notes emerge. This well-structured Brunello has good length and concentration and is elegant, making it reasonably approachable.

    Sourced from south-facing vineyards in the Montesoli area with clay-rich soils at 250 - 400 m asl (you need to be over 300m to lower the risk of frost). Fairly windy location located on the NE side of the Pyramid. A traditional winemaking approach, with long macerations (around 25 days) and maturation in 25-50 hl casks. The Cannolicchio estate is one of the original families that founded the consortium in 1960, along with Franc Vicente and Biondi Santi. The wine became a phenomenon in the US as it was a bigger, easy-to-drink style (some say Chianti with training wheels). In the past, Connolicchio struggled with ripeness in the 1960s - 1980s.

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  • 1996 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 90 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    (Tasted Blind) Mid mahogany in colour. The bouquet shows distinct aged aromas, with earthy, savoury umami notes dominating. Subtle undertones of dried fruits, undergrowth, and a hint of something slightly metallic, reminiscent of fly spray, emerge slowly. The palate continues with an umami, tar-like quality, and the fruit seems dried out, yet a morsel of sweetness pervades towards the mid-palate. Impressive in intensity, medium-bodied, the tannins are blocky and less refined than those of younger vintages. The upside is that the wine seems remarkably elegant, not least because the acid is vibrant and keeps it upright. As it opened in a glass, the tannins calmed down somewhat. The finish is long, but the wine is not as classy as other vintages, feeling somewhat rustic.

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Flight 6 - Giuseppe Rinaldi (2 Notes)

Giuseppe was one of Piedmont's most famous and respected producers until his untimely death at the age of 69 in 2018. His daughters have been running the estate since roughly 2014 with Marta primarily undertaking the winemaking duties while Carlotta, a trained agronomist, looks after the vineyards. Giuseppe Rinaldi was a big traditionalist and now, as ever, fermentation in oak vats and ageing exclusively in large Slavonian oak barrels (botti). All grapes are destemmed and all ferments are spontaneous. Giuseppe believed blends from various sites was the best way to express Barolo and the market clearly agrees - their 4000-bottle production disappears very fast. Soils here are mostly marls, with sand and clay layers.

  • 2017 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Tre Tine 95 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (Tasted Blind) Light mahogany in colour. Classic Barolo aromas of floral rose petals, tar, raspberry, and hints of cigar humidor morph into sandalwood and camphor, accentuating its floral vibrancy and drawing you in with every nose. The entry is effusive and engaging with that classic "iron fist in a velvet glove" style. Supremely elegant, it is light on its feet but delivers impressive concentration. Finely honed tannins yet with an astringency that reminds me of a sharpened Japanese Nakira knife cutting through the mid-palate that holds a wealth of raspberry, Morello cherry, ripe Valencia orange and dried lemons, all with a smattering of sweet spice. A perfect balance of restrained power and elegance, this is a deep and layered wine with a vibrant shot of acidity, giving extra tightness as it moves to a long finish. The tannins build slowly, suggesting a wine that will continue to develop in the bottle for decades. Immense potential and yet wonderful right now! 94-96+

    A blend of Rinaldi's three Crus (Tre Tine) of Ravera, Le Coste, and Cannubi San Lorenzo. Traditionally made with higher yields, longer macerations, and ageing in large casks. Wild yeast fermentation with maturation in neutral oak for longer than usual. Brunate tends to contribute fruit-driven richness, and La Coste provides structure.
    2017 was warmer than average.

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  • 1994 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (Tasted Blind) Mid mahogany to tawny colour. A gorgeous, complex bouquet offers wet undergrowth, tilled clay, and dried earth, and as it opens, more tertiary notes of mushrooms, chestnuts and forest floor.
    Full-bodied and velvety textured, the wine has a lovely soft mid-palate that imbues caramel and the raspberry jam filling of a sponge cake. With resolved tannins and vibrant acidity, the wines are elegant and traditional, retaining fantastic intensity and persistence. A slight volatile element lifts positively, and the wine is in a great drinking window. Umami and savoury flavours linger, while the acidity keeps the wine fresh and upright.
    Perhaps the cooler vintage may have reduced some of the magic typically found in warmer years, but it still shows great elegance and appeal.
    The father passed away in 2018 and now the estate is run by his two daughters. The blending of fruit from Brunate and Le Coste in Rinaldi’s wines reflects a combination of power from Monforte and Serralunga with the elegance and aromatic lift of La Morra, giving this Barolo both structure and finesse.

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Flight 7 - Guastaferro (2 Notes)

Founded in 2003, Guastaferro is located in the heart of Taurasi, Campania. Two and a half of the nearly eight hectares at Guastaferro are planted to enormous, pre-phylloxera vines between 175 and 200 years old, with the remaining vineyards planted to cuttings from those vines - meaning the estate has a bio-type of Aglianico found only on its land. The Taurasi Riserva is vinified exclusively from the ancient vines. While all vineyards are in the township of Taurasi, the old vines are in the heart of the famed Piano d'Angelo vineyard.

  • 2015 Guastaferro Taurasi Primum Riserva 96 Points

    Italy, Campania, Taurasi DOCG

    (Tasted Blind) Deep and impenetrable ruby. A bold, intense nose offering ripe black cherry and blackberry, with savoury layers of sea kelp, smoke, and charred earth. In between, subtle nuances of dark spices, tobacco, and a balsamic lift emerge. Full-bodied and powerful, this wine is richly textured, delivering a mix of minerals and fruits, firm, densely structured tannins assuaged by a certain sweetness from the ripe black fruits.
    Muscular, gutsy, and well-defined, with vibrant acidity, keep the wine taut, while the fruit and tannins promise long-term development in the bottle. The finish is persistent, closing with spices, black fruit, and tobacco. Phenomenal!
    Grown on volcanic, sandy soils with old vines up to 175 years old.

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  • 2007 Guastaferro Taurasi Primum Riserva 98 Points

    Italy, Campania, Taurasi DOCG

    (Tasted Blind) Opaque ruby with a hint of orange at the rim, which indicates some age. With an intense and brooding nose, the wine exhibits deep, savoury notes of seaweed, clay, and wet pottery. Inside lurk black fruits accented by balsamic and subtle oak spices, and as the nose unfolds, it reveals layers of leather, spice, liquorice and a whisper of tobacco. The palate is incredibly complex and layered, with a rich fruit core and endless depth of flavour - Wow! Dark fruits, particularly black cherry and blackberry, intermingle with mineral notes of sea kelp and a touch of spice cake and cigar box. The oak influence is noticeable but well-integrated, adding structure without overpowering the fruit. The tannins build steadily, showing firmness and a slightly earthy edge, yet are satiny. With phenomenal length and outstanding concentration, the wine is exceptional, reflecting a more modern interpretation of Taurasi.
    Made from Aglianico and only in exceptional vintages. Taurasi is known as the "Barolo of the South" for its ageworthy structure and depth.

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