Chain Bridge Cellars, McLean VA
Tasted Sunday, December 14, 2025 by Pellinge with 33 views
I buy more wines from Italy than from any other country, and a good chunk of those are imported by John Grimsley's Le Storie Wines in Virginia, which specializes in artisan Italian producers.
Quite a few new vintages of old favorites, and also some new discoveries. The diversity of Italian wine is so deep one can never know all of it. Perhaps if I lived to 150? Sangiovese has been proven to extend one's life, hasn't it?
2022 Cenatiempo Biancolella Ischia Kalimera 92 Points
Italy, Campania, Ischia
Importer tasting. Biancolella is the variety, and while Falanghina, Greco, and Fiano get most of the attention in this region, this is yet another fantastic Campanian white variety. Deep yellow in color, tangy, mineral and intense citrus on the palate. Dry, but has a sense of sweetness from the intense fruit. Best white of the tasting. Not cheap, but appropriate for the quality and the heroic viticulture on the island of Ischia. Have been pleased with everything made by this producer.
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2024 Venica & Venica Collio Pinot Grigio Jesera 89 Points
Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
Importer tasting. Have had this in a couple prior vintages, a reliable ramato-style Pinot Grigio with herbal notes and plenty of peachiness. What happened to the price? Used to be 18-20 bucks, now 35. Recommended at the former price, not so much now.
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2018 Dirupi Valtellina Superiore 90 Points
Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Valtellina Superiore
Importer tasting. Previously tried their Rosso di Valtellina and thought it was good not great. This is more upscale, and... good not great. Pale in color with some browning. Both the nose and palate also showed some age, maybe more than expected for a 7 year old. More mushrooms than fruit, and both acidity and tannins were quite gentle for a Nebbiolo.
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2016 Le Pianelle Bramaterra 91 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Bramaterra
Importer tasting. Darker in color than the Dirupi Valtellina Superiore tasted beforehand, courtesy of the Croatina in the blend (it's 80% Neb, 20% Croatina and Vespolina). Lots of savory mushroom on the nose and palate - it's 9 years old, but I was still surprised at how tertiary it seemed. The tannins had melted away such that it seems ready to drink, but there's enough structure and dried cherry fruit to keep going a while yet. Good stuff, not cheap.
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2020 Isola delle Falcole Vecchia Vigna Toscana IGT
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Importer tasting. This is a new producer with an old vineyard placed between Panzano and Montefioralle, a stone's throw from Vecchie Terre di Montefili. Nice dirt. One of the principals is the nephew of Bibi Graetz. I think the vineyard used to be managed and bottled by Molino di Grace?
70% Sangiovese, 10 Colorino, 5 each Ciliegiolo and Canaiolo, and 10% white grapes (Malvasia and Trebbiano). Aged 18 months in Botti Grande. 500 cases. After a couple mountain Nebbiolos and two Sangiovese my palate was roughed up by the time I got to this, but still the tannins were face-ripping. I got some reductive stink on the nose, so this probably needed air. Darker in color (hello Colorino), a lot of power and stuffing, just not ready to drink, so judgment reserved.
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NV Sorelle Bronca Prosecco di Treviso Modi 88 Points
Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Treviso
Importer tasting. While this is labeled Prosecco di Treviso, was told it was all declassified Valdobbiadene fruit: 2nd pressing, made by Charmat method. Good Prosecco, almond aroma, fruity but quite dry on the finish.
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NV Camilucci Franciacorta Ammonites 89 Points
Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta DOCG
Importer tasting. Pretty good facsimile of Champagne, made from 70% Chardonnay, 20 Pinot Noir, 10 Pinot Meunier, with zero dosage. Very dry and savory. Not cheap for a non-vintage Franciacorta, but still cheaper than most NV Champagne.
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2020 Cantina Della Volta Lambrusco di Sorbara Rosé 90 Points
Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC
Importer tasting. Last summer tried the 2017 of this wine with owner Christian Bellei. 100% Lambrusco di Sorbara, made by the traditional Champagne method with very brief skin contact and long aging on the lees; this was disgorged in February 2025. Palest pink color. More fruit and body than the Franciacorta tasted before it, but still dry on the finish. Will forever change what you think Lambrusco is about.
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2024 La Ghibellina Gavi Mainin 87 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Gavi
Importer tasting. It's a good Gavi, but it's still Gavi. Citrus, a certain steeliness, but acid seems relatively low.
Gavi was a big thing years ago when there weren't many other options in Italian white wine, but it has been surpassed by other Piemontese varieties (Timorasso!, Arneis, etc) and really a reawakening with respect to native Italian varieties across the entire country. Cortese is approximately my 20th-favorite Italian white variety.
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2024 Ciavolich Pecorino Aries 90 Points
Italy, Abruzzi, Colline Pescaresi IGT
Importer tasting, and a new addition to their portfolio. This artisan producer seems to have quite a reputation as most of their wines are very pricey, especially for Abruzzo, but this Pecorino was on the more affordable end. Fresh citrus, and a potent herbal note - I want to say tarragon? Interesting and yet another wonderful native Italian white variety that people need to try. The name is obviously a play on the variety's name, which means sheep.
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2021 Montenidoli Rosso Montenidoli Toscana IGT 90 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Importer tasting. Very familiar with this wonderful winery and this particular bottling, pure Sangiovese vinified and aged in concrete and barrique. Tons of structure in this heralded vintage - essence of Sangiovese. Last had the 2018 vintage which was more fruity and friendly. This seems built for the long haul. Price is creeping up, but appropriate for the quality.
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2023 Villa Papiano Sangiovese Modigliana Papesse 90 Points
Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Sangiovese di Romagna
Importer tasting. Maybe my first exposure to Sangiovese di Romagna? Although this is literally on the border with Tuscany, up in the hills at ~500m elevation. Biodynamic producer, vineyards planted in 1980 and 2001, 95% Sangiovese, 5% Balsamino and Negretto (no, I've never heard of those either). 6 months aging in concrete and another 6 in bottle - no wood.
Bright cherry flavor backed by plenty of structure. Very serious for the modest price, yet also fresh and accessible if you like robust reds. Great varietal typicity. Best deal of the tasting event.
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2018 San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino 90 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Importer tasting. After my palate was beaten up by a couple mountain Nebbiolos and subsequently 3 Sangiovese, this was surprisingly less tannic and had more sweet fruit. Perhaps the vintage speaking? I've liked quite a few 2018 Chiantis which have also been open and friendly. It's good, but I can get 2 or 3 bottles of kickass Chianti for the price of one of these.
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2018 Roccolo Grassi Amarone della Valpolicella 92 Points
Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
Importer tasting. From a top notch producer. Only older vines go into the Amarone, which ages in a mix of barrique and larger oak vessels. 16.5% abv! It smells a bit like a liqueur, but the fruit is fresh, without a hint of raisins. Tons of chocolate on the palate, very silky in texture. Not hot, but does give a warming sensation. After a bunch of high acid/high tannin Sangiovese, this tastes not only like it comes from another country, but from a different planet.
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