December dinner for three

Noize
Tasted Tuesday, December 16, 2025 by NickA with 39 views

Flight 1 - Gougères (1 Note)

  • NV Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle Iteration 24 Grande Cuvée 94 Points

    France, Champagne

    I was fairly mocked for my (otherwise enthusiastic) 2022 note that labelled this as "too well-mannered to be exciting", but I do still see why I came to that conclusion, as this was such a smooth, seamless wine. It's luxe, louche and sexy, with custard and apple on the nose, and absolutely not a hair out of place. The palate has green fruit and digestive biscuit and still feels pretty youthful (this is a blend of 60% 2007, 20% 2006 and 20% 2004...). It kept improving with exposure to air and the final pours were the best, at the same time even more harmonious and also zingily arresting, like Refreshers sweets. This was classy and ever so drinkable.

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Flight 2 - Stuffed potato skins, sauerkraut, Baron Bigod sauce (1 Note)

  • 2017 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    My note from earlier this month on the 2020 Ballot-Millot Narvaux said that I couldn't recall a better villages white... well, here comes one. Tight and spritzy upon opening, but opened up quickly once the somm had decanted it. The nose was very airy and clearly came from a wine that's light on its feet. There's also a tempting aroma of hazelnuts. On the palate the wine feels creamy and coherent, with lemon, lime and a touch of pineapple, and the finish fans out beautifully. Such an elegant and classy wine.

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Flight 3 - Pheasant breast, pheasant “Swedish meat balls”, sprouts, trompettes, tagliatelle, chestnut velouté (2 Notes)

  • 1985 Château La Tour Haut-Brion 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Still pretty dark to look at, and clearly in good condition. The bouquet was sexy and spicy but also extremely comforting, and dominated by gentle cindery smoke that reminded us of the small of an old jacket around the campfire. After some air, a classic cedary lead pencil scent developed, too. On the palate the wine started out brisk and juicy and felt transparent, but quickly fell off before the finish, which was the wine's weakest element. That nose though! How can a liquid made of grapes smell like that? Wonderful.

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  • 1990 Domaine de Chevalier 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Almost as compelling on the nose as the 1985 LTHB, and even more complex: powdery fruit, well-hung grouse, menthol, farmward, sharp cassis. Much more well-rounded and lively on the palate than its flight-mate, which was dark in tone, well-defined and proportioned, had a generous amount of tasty cherry and was seasoned with tertiary notes of ink and ash. Long, crisp, bitter finish. In a great spot all told: gorgeous wine.

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Flight 4 - Cheeses (1 Note)

  • 2009 Château Guiraud 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Half. On the sweeter side, but in such an appealingly gentle and pretty fashion. Intense marmalade on the nose, without any of the harsh bitterness that an older wine might have developed, and the gentle honeyed scent of a just-emptied glass of Dalwhinnie. More marmalade and honey on the palate, as well as lemon curd; it's intense, but so balanced that you don't really notice. Brought proceedings to a very satisfactory close.

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Closing

5/5!

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