Chris's birthday dinner

Great to see Copse again after the works.

• NV Alfred Gratien Champagne The Wine Society's Private Cuvée Brut

  France, Champagne

  From jeroboam, then from mag. Consistently delivers, in its big style.

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With spiced pumpkin soup

• 2019 Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Les Combes Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  This was lovely, richness but real tension and energy, lemon custard on brioche, creamy texture, delicious.

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Cote de boeuf, roasted marrowbones, slow-cooked shin with dumplings

• 2014 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto Toscana IGT

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  From magnum, decanted for some time. Good, but serious.

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• 2021 Tenuta San Guido Le Difese Toscana IGT

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  I wasn't sure why I preferred this to the 2014 Guidalberto served before it, but I see this has majority Sangiovese in the blend and that explains it. Even pnp, this is more approachable (as it is meant to be) and I found it more cheerfully enjoyable.

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