CWG Tasting - Madeira

Duncan Savage led this Madeira tasting.

Madeira occupies a strange corner of the wine world. It is, by most measures, the most indestructible wine ever made — a fortified wine from a small volcanic island in the Atlantic, discovered and settled by Portuguese colonists in 1419, that not only survives oxidation and heat but is deliberately built around them. Where every other fine wine tradition guards against age and air, Madeira's producers spent three centuries learning to embrace both.

That paradox runs through tonight's line-up. Everyday Madeira today is matured by *estufagem* — heated in stainless steel tanks at 45–50°C for a minimum of three months — a controlled version of the discovery, centuries ago, that wine improved after pitching and rolling through the tropics in a ship's hold. At the other end of the table sit the vintage wines, some running back to 1840, matured the older and slower way: as *canteiro*, resting in wood in a warm loft or warehouse, warmed only by the sun, sometimes for a century or more.

1840 is worth pausing on. It predates both of the disasters that nearly ended Madeira altogether — powdery mildew in the 1850s and phylloxera two decades later, which between them wiped out most of the island's traditional vines and permanently changed what was planted. A bottle from before either event is, in a real sense, a taste of a Madeira the catastrophes never touched. Under today's regulations that wine would be classified Frasqueira — single-vintage, a minimum of twenty years in wood, verified by IVBAM's tasting panel — though the term itself is a modern one; the wine long predates the label.

The wines tonight lean heavily on Verdelho — the second most planted of the noble varieties, fermented close to dryness for a medium-dry style with real acid drive, developing that characteristic smoky complexity with age. Alongside it sit Sercial, the coolest-sited and latest-ripening of the classic grapes, making the driest and most searingly acidic style; and Malvasia (Malmsey), grown in the warmest sites on the south coast, full-bodied and the sweetest of the four, though never cloying — Madeira's defining acidity sees to that regardless of sugar level.
Bual sits between Malmsey and Verdelho.

What ties the youngest wine on the table to the oldest is that acid spine, and the tertiary, *rancio*-like complexity it earns with decades of slow oxidative ageing.

• NV Blandy's Madeira Sercial Dry Duke of Sussex 91 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  Light brown-amber hue with a cloudy appearance.
  Deep, intense aromas of raisins, dried fruits, toffee, dried fig, chocolate pudding mix, semi-dried apricot and crushed nuts are complemented by a mushroom-like earthiness and wet stones.
  A bone-dry palate that defines more a salted dried orange peel and caramel with shelled walnuts and plenty of resinous qualities that concludes with a bitter, dry finish featuring raisin and fig notes. I found a slight bacterial note on the finish that imparted a musty, mousy character but didn't detract. It didn't have the depth or complexity of the next wine upon re-tasting.
  Tinta Negra Mole underwent fermentation off the skins with natural yeast at temperatures between 24°C and 26°C in SS. After approximately five days, fermentation was arrested by fortification with grape brandy. The wine was then transferred to 'estufa' tanks, undergoing a cyclic heating and cooling process between 45°C and 50°C over three months. Following 'estufagem', it was aged for three years in American oak casks, then racked, fined, blended, and bottled. (approx. 40 years old) - Rainwater

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• NV Justino's Madeira Terrantez Old Reserve 91 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  Mid amber with copper highlights. Expansive aromas of dried fruits and nuts join orange and tangerine peel, spiced clove, button mushroom, milk chocolate, tinned prunes, Turkish dates, and toffee. There is also a smoky undertone accented by a rancio volatility.
  Clearly with sweetness, the wine is off-dry to medium with pronounced rancio and aldehydic notes. There are hints of old wood and a touch of creaminess with warm, embracing fruits, making for a highly complex wine that carries some acidity to give it some edges. Lovely concentration, the wine is opulent, and yet if anything, the aldehydic notes are quite pronounced, so it was 91-93.
  The rare Terrantez grape is used here.
  -Soils: Red and brown basaltic bedrock; terraces
  -Grapes destemmed, crushed, pressed; fermented in 650L oak barrels. Fortified after 6-7 days with neutral grape spirits. Aged >50 years in traditional canteiro system (naturally in wood). Racking, fining, filtering before blending and bottling.
  Alc 19%; pH 3.36. Sweetness from Verdelho to Bual levels.

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• 1973 D'Oliveiras Madeira Verdelho 96 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  Medium brown-tawny colour with a minuscule yellow rim.
  Richly expressive with layers of semi-dried apricots, blackstrap molasses, raisin and dried fig intermingled with date, warm spice and chocolate pudding mix, all with a wisp of smoke and even some potpourri.
  An immensely concentrated wine held together with a vibrant, well-delineated acidity that copes more than admirably with its higher residual sugar (1973 was a generally poor vintage if I recall, suggesting this might have more acid than usual?). The core is a veritable smorgasboard (cliched but on point!) of flavour: dried apricot, pineapple in syrup and dehydrated tangerine peel meld with Turkish date, dried guava and fig to give an exotic richness. There is a melt-in-the-mouth chocolate character that oscillates with a hazelnut yoghurt element. An exceptionally long finish that manages to retain composure and clarity despite its density and power. Wow!
  Red and brown basaltic bedrock; terraces
  100% Verdelho
  Aged 45 years in old oak barrels under the traditional canteiro method, allowing for slow oxidative maturation
  Bottled in 2018. Classified as Frasqueira (vintage).
  Alc 20%; pH 3.36; VA 1.2; TA 8.96; RS 70 g/l. Price R6 000.

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• 1932 D'Oliveiras Madeira Verdelho 99 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  Mid to light brown with tawny and mahogany shades, accented by a green-yellow rim, indicating significant age.
  A phenomenally intense bouquet delivering dried orange peel and apricot, tobacco, dark chocolate, raisin, prune, toffee, walnut and dried fig with smoky undertones,
  The wine exhibits remarkable depth and concentration with well-managed volatile notes and a vibrant thrust of acidity that pushes the densely layered core. Layers of dried apricot and salted nuts join semi-dried peach, nectarine, date, and dried fig. There is a presence of older wood and caramelised notes, as well as a touch of bitterness that adds further complexity and some edges to the wine. There is a warming, smoky character, and the wine finishes exceptionally long, leaving impressions of tobacco and a smoke-filled cigar lounge! Amazing, even if my note don't fully do it justice!
  Red and brown basaltic bedrock; terraces
  100% Verdelho
  Aged 83 years in old oak barrels using the traditional canteiro method. Bottled in 2015. Classified as Frasqueira (vintage).
  Alc 20%; TSO2 <15 mg/l; VA 1.28; TA 9.81; RS 67 g/l. Medium dry style.
  Fun facts: In 1932, there were 2 billion people on the planet; the Summer Olympics were held in Los Angeles, and unemployment was 33% in the US.

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• 1912 D'Oliveiras Madeira Verdelho 97 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  Fox brown in colour, graduating to a deeper mahogany rim.
  A stunningly evocative bouquet commences with floral, minty, and menthol notes evoking mint humbugs, green tea and crushed lemon balm. Beneath lies caramel, candied/marmalade fruits, Hoisin sauce, black toffee, dried fig, molasses, and touches of dark chocolate. Deep and beguiling!
  A powerful, spirit-driven wine with remarkable density and richness is balanced by a sweet impression whilst a soaring acidity gives it a certain focus.. The mid-palate opens with a rich, syrupy wave of peach, pineapple, and apricot, swimming in toffee and caramel, with hints of chocolate ganache and treacle. As the wine unfurls, notes of smoked fig, walnut and citrus zest emerge, culminating in a long, dynamic finish that closes with a saline, briny lift. Its complexity is astonishing with incredible concentration—though not quite match that of the 1932.
  Red and brown basaltic bedrock; terraces
  100% Verdelho
  Aged 104 years in old oak barrels. Bottled in 2016. Classified as Frasqueira (vintage).
  Alc 20%; TSO2 15 mg/l; VA 1.4; TA 9.33; RS 75 g/l.
  
  Fun Facts: In 1912, there was an outbreak of smallpox, the African National Congress (ANC) was formed, the Republic of China was established, and the Titanic sank.

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• 1890 D'Oliveiras Madeira Verdelho 98 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  Mid-plus bronze-mahogany in colour, deeper and cloudier than the previous three wines. Alluring aromas of caramel, raisin, fig, toffee, fudge, and chestnut fill the nose. The palate has a remarkable concentration and viscosity, finely balanced with a sweet (65g/L RS) richness with a dried nutty oxidative edge and bracing acidity. The mid-palate overflows with toffee, fig, pulverised nuts, date, and prune juice all enveloped in layers of dried apricot, satsuma, creamed honey, candied spices, caramel, and chocolate torte/ganache.
  It finishes with immense length and complexity, displaying freshness and a hint of mint humbug, with semi-dried raisin notes to conclude. Another sensationally complex wine I found, which, whilst it had sweetness filling out the mid-palate, seemed to have a remarkable poise enhanced by its acidity.
  Red and brown basaltic bedrock; terraces
  100% Verdelho
  Aged 127 years in old oak barrels. Bottled in 2017. Classified as Frasqueira (vintage).
  Alc 20%; TSO2 <10 mg/l; VA 1.49; TA 10.64; RS 69 g/l.
  
  Fun Facts: There are approximately 1.5 billion people on the planet. The first railway in Transvaal was established; Cecil Rhodes was the Prime Minister; The first country cricket match took place; Vincent van Gogh passed away; The folding cardboard box was invented around this time.

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• 1860 Cossart Gordon & Co. Madeira Sercial Solera 98 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  Pale amber-yellow in colour with gorgeously fragrant notes of green olive, seaweed, stem ginger, mint, walnut, cardamom and tarragon, offering just a promise of candied fruits.
  The palate is dry and spicy, with a cedarwood quality, yet a dribble of cream custard lurks. The wine builds notable acidity alongside mineral freshness, propelling it toward a long, resonant finish. As the wine opens, it develops into mint humbugs, salted walnuts, and hazelnuts. The finish carries smoke, spice, raisin and gingerbread with that persistent cedarwood quality and a touch of brandy snap bitterness. It slightly lacks the depth of previous wines, it possesses such vivid brilliance for such a venerable wine of this age. Immense!
  Red and brown basaltic bedrock; terraces
  100% Sercial
  Solera method (aged in wood).
  Alc 18%. Dry style.
  A solera Madeira produced by Cossart Gordon, one of the oldest Madeira houses, established in 1745.
  
  Fun Facts: Leap year, telegram between Cape Town and Stellenbosch; first iron-hulled ship. Abraham Lincoln was the President of the USA. Natal opened its railway, the first recording of the human voice, and the first British golf championship.

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• 1863 Leacock Malmsey Solera 95 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  Light amber-brown in colour with a tawny meniscus. An emotive bouquet shows black toffee, dried fig, dark caramel, molasses, finely ground nuts and a trace of bitter marmalade (old school) with hints of chai tea and preserved orange rind.
  The palate is intense and rich, providing phenomenal concentration and, alongside that, hallmark sweetness that delivers an indulgent, dense, liquorous character that borders on overwhelming. Deeply flavoured, the wine is bedecked with black toffee, wet raisin caramel, and molasses in spades, unfolding across a plush, almost unctuous texture.
  Flavours of date, dried fig, pulverised nuts, and coffee shop aromas build in the mid-palate whilst the finish is long and seriously sweet, with lingering impressions of blackstrap molasses, raisin syrup, and a bitter orange marmalade tang and cold metal minerality that helps offset much of the richness. Super complex!
  Leacock’s is a house with roots dating back to 1760.
  Red and brown basaltic bedrock; terraces
  100% Malmsey (Malvasia)
  Aged 68 years in American oak barrels. Bottled in 1931, re-bottled in 1989.
  Richer, sweeter style; RS 63-117g/l. Price R14 400 (for 1963 in table; possible variant). P
  
  Fun facts: First horse-drawn trams; the London underground started; American Revolution happened

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• 1920 Blandy's Madeira Bual 97 Points

  Portugal, Madeira

  A light fox brown colour with a yellow meniscus. The bouquet is deep and expressive, drawing you in with apricot, Valencia orange, prune and pineapple, wrapped in red and yellow flower petals.
  A strikingly focused, finely etched palate unfolds with shelled walnut, caramel, Malva pudding and hints of medicinal cough syrup and fynbos honey. Though labelled with 110g/l residual sugar, it presents as drier than expected, thanks to searing acidity that keeps everything precisely in check. Flavours of chunky, bitter-edged orange marmalade, dried wood, and brine lend further savoury nuance, all underpinned by exceptional purity and lift.
  The finish is outstandingly long, carrying notes of citrus peel, nutty oxidation, and salted caramel, and there is a richness, tremendous concentration and clarity that suggests a wine for meditation, not mere indulgence! My only quibble was the dried wood note that suggested it had spent considerable time in oak, but I may be nitpicking.
  Sourced from the southern part of Madeira.
  Red and brown basaltic bedrock; terraces
  100% Bual (Boal)
  Aged 100 years in American oak barrels and demijohns. Bottled in 2020. Only 1199 bottles released.
  Alc 20%; pH 3.53; VA 1.44; TA 10.74; RS 110 g/l. Darker, richer style; RS 45-63g/l.
  
  Fun Facts: Leap year; SA Air Force established (second after the RAF); Spanish flu epidemic; first KLM flight; US postal service ruled children couldn't be sent by parcel.

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• 2001 Le Bonheur Cabernet Sauvignon Cape Winemakers Guild 88 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  Light brown in colour with yellowing edges.
  The bouquet displays tertiary notes of smoke, roasted meat, tobacco, and forest floor, combined with fresher notes of mint, thyme, and tarragon, whilst a pastille, blackcurrant wine gum, is at the back.
  The palate has a more than lively acidity with resolved tannins that gently support. The fruit slowly evaporates as more smoked meat takes hold on the finish. Lovely to try, but past its heyday.

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• 2000 Jean Daneel Cape Winemakers Guild 91 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Franschhoek Valley

  Aromas of black fruits, toffee, dark chocolate, and tertiary undergrowth, complemented by herbal notes that border on a greener edge. The palate reflects adding some smoky notes whilst having a lively acidity with powdery yet dense tannins that carry it nicely to a long finish. Showing remarkably well!

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• 2001 Grangehurst Cabernet Sauvignon Cape Winemakers Guild 90 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  A deep red garnet through to the rim with complex tertiary nuances of mint humbug, undergrowth, woodsmoke, crushed camphor leaves and glimmers of tar and crushed herbs.
  The full-bodied palate has a pronounced smokiness, yet despite its age, still harbours blackcurrant and black cherry notes. Nicely balanced with a decent acidity and gently grippy tannins - if reaching its zenith, it has a long tail.
  A Cape Blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Pinotage, and 14% Shiraz. Fermented in an open kuipe with punchdowns, it was then basket-pressed and matured in French (77%) and American (23%) oak barrels (70% new) for 26 months. Alc: 14.3%; RS: 2.2g/L; TA: 5.9 g/l; pH: 3.65.

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• 2003 Kaapzicht Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Auction Reserve 92 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch

  An earthier nose with intense notes of blackberries and redcurrant, with a touch of caramel and a subtle smokiness that reminded me of toasted marshmallow. The palate delivers similarly, with a richly textured mid-palate underscored by a moderate tannin grip and sufficient acidity to push it forward.
  This full-bodied, bold wine really engages whilst also improving in the glass with exposure to air. Impressive for its age. A Cape Blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Pinotage, and 10% Merlot that was matured in new French oak barrels for 19–20 months.

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• 2014 Château Montrose 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Aromatic lift with herbs, Assam tea leaf, tobacco, cedarwood and fresh blackcurrant with subtle earthy undertones and gentle salinity - all very St. Estephe qualities!
  Full-bodied, the wine is deep and concentrated, with a core of blackcurrant with leafy, herbal accents. Impressively structured, the solid, dense tannins are enveloped in cocoa powder and complemented by oak spice, imparting a sense of quiet power and a vibrant acidity that carries it forward.
  An intelligently made wine that reflects gravitas - a persistent length, it closes with a tarragon/grassy note and freshness.
  The blend in 2014 is roughly 61% CS, 30% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Sourced from gravelly soils and matured in 60% new French oak for 18 months.

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• 2010 Château Léoville Barton 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

  An array of raspberry crumble, boysenberry and blackcurrant is layered over Costa Rican coffee beans, caramel and a sod of drying earth that has the merest hint of wildness - someone remarked Brett in the group, but didn't bother me - some dried flowers are also present.
  The palate feels vibrant and youthful with a noted lemon-fresh acidity giving focus, whilst rigid tannins give definition. There is a persistent fruit that penetrates the mid-palate, with an earthy quality and a dry, savoury element, as it heads to a long, genteel finish.
  It felt reserved and hasn't fully revealed itself yet - in a sense, it lacked a touch of dynamism, but it is likely to promise more in the future. 92+
  77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22.5% Merlot, 0.5% Cabernet Franc that is matured in 60% new French oak for 18 months. Grown on deep gravel soils.

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• 2001 Château Rauzan-Ségla 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Super deep garnet with an inviting bouquet of tilled soil, fresh blackcurrant and torn tobacco leaves is augmented by sweeter spices, lightly grilled plums and lemon zest.
  Upright with energetic acidity and supple, fine-grained tannins, this medium to full-bodied wine delivers plenty of charm, concentration and complexity, with some underlying freshness and a touch of Margaux fragrance. Elegance and finesse pervade right through to a lasting finish.
  A CS-led blend with Merlot and a touch of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Deep gravel and clay soils, the wine is aged in 50–60% new French oak for ~18 months.

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• 2006 Paolo Scavino Barolo Cannubi 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  A fragrant array of red and blue flowers infused with red berries, minerals and light spices, all with a lightly earthy overlay. Compact, tightly woven tannins kick in quickly on entry, yet there is enough fruit and soft acidity to balance. Plenty of floral notes keep leaping from the glass, whilst the tilled-soil notes become more apparent.
  However, assertive tannins rise on the finish, clenching your back-palate yet still allowing some length to the elegantly shaped finish. Pretty tight still!
  100% Nebbiolo from the Cannubi vineyard. Fermented in SS and then aged for 12 months in French oak barriques (part new), followed by 12 months in large casks

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• 2016 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  The nose is port-like in its deep sweeter fruit of blackberry, damson nastergaal and dried tangerine peel, but accented by a combination of slightly wet clay pots, warm gravel and tar, all with wafts of smoke.
  Rich in entry, the palate is deep and firmly structured, showing plenty of concentrated blackberry, hot stones and fungi edges. At its core are dense, extracted tannins, and there is a distinct mineral thread through the wine. The finish is moderately long, though the heat and extraction are pronounced, giving a cayenne pepper note on the close. Arguably, it will last longer, but I'm not a fan of that chilli spice on the back end.
  100% Nebbiolo, fermented with maceration on skins, then aged in large Slavonian oak casks for 36 months.

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• 2023 Tembela Wines Chenin Blanc 89 Points

  South Africa, Coastal Region, Cape Town

  Fresh and incisively lemony, with vivid green lemon, green mango, and a hint of toast on the nose. The palate is zesty and bright with notes of pear and yellow apple underscored by a lovely phenolic grip and textural
  pithy lemon core infused with some minerals. The finish echoes lemon zest and citrus pith, making for a stimulating, crisp wine if a tad linear.
  Spontaneously fermented Chenin Blanc, in older 500-litre barrels, unfined and unfiltered.

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