Seattle Tasting Group does whites from Alsace, Germany and Austria

Earlier this evening I hosted a meeting of the self-proclaimed Seattle Tasting Group at my house. We have done tastings of German whites before, but this time we expanded the focus beyond Germany to include Alsace and Austria. The contrast in styles is remarkable, so we tried to arrange the wines in small flights to best enjoy them with their peers. For me, the dry Alsatian wines were the most consistent and enjoyable. There were really some remarkable wines!

First we started with a couple of Austrian Rieslings. As a group we have had very little experience with these wines, so while we enjoyed them we struggled a bit.

• 2001 Prager Riesling Smaragd Weissenkirchnen Klaus 91 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  The nose shows fruit cocktail, kerosene, a very light note of petrol and some green apple. Wow, the taur palate shows huge body and intensity with slatey minerality. There is very nice acid on the long, tangy and spicy finish. Group average 87.875.

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• 2001 Alzinger Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Liebenberg 90 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  This is shimmering gold and especially lovely to look at in the glass. The nose is floral yet the aromatics are otherwise restrained and somewhat disappointing. On the palate this is spicy and mineral laden, almost salty, with a smooth, creamy mouthfeel. The finish was initially quite tight and verging on bitter, yet with air this opened up and changed a great deal. This was seemed more closed and ungiving than the Prager served alongside it. Group average 88.875.

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Next we moved onto some amazing wines from Alsace, wow! This is definitely a region I need to check out in more depth.

• 1990 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 96 Points

  France, Alsace

  Holey Toledo, this awesome nose shows unreal diesel, with smokey, slatey minerality, wow! The bone-dry palate elicits an OMG with vibrant, explosive, liquid minerality. The glorious finish is dripping with minerals and salinity. Wow, what a wine, this could easily turn one into a Alsace fan! Group average 92.

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• 1999 Albert Boxler Riesling Brand 95 Points

  France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

  The nose is spicy and mineral laden with honey and a faint off aroma of rubber. There was some debate was to whether this was corked, but our two most cork sensitive noses felt strongly that it wasn't. On the palate this quickly dispelled any notion of being off. Explosive, massive, a hint of sweetness and honey, this is awesomely young, primary and powerful. A breathtaking white wine! Group average 93.625.

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• 2000 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Brand Flawed

  France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

  My bottle. Corked, auggh!!!

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And a second flight of Alsacian wines.

• 1994 Domaine Ernest Burn Gewurztraminer Goldert Clos Saint Imer La Chapelle 94 Points

  France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

  Floral and exotic with an awesome nose of honey and a hint of botrytis. The palate is rich and explosive with unreal body and ripeness. There is a nice laye rof minerality beneath the gorgeous fruit and extract. The rich finish is long, spicy and racy, wow! Group average 94.875. #2 WOTN.

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• 1997 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain 92 Points

  France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

  This had a very difficult match alongside the amazingly flamboyant 19994 Ernest Burn Gewurztraminer Goldert Clos Saint Imer Cuvee de la Chapelle. The nose is slightly sweaty (in the way that I always associate with Pinot Gris) with excellent minerality. The palate is racy and spicy with a hint of sweetness. The long, long finish is spicy and mineral laden, a beautiful wine. Group average 90.

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Next we moved into a flight of German wines provided by the Goldeberger's.

• 2001 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese ** 86 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  AP# 6-02. The nose is fairly mute with pleasant scents of talc along with slightly off aromas of dirty socks and mold. The palate was sweet yet simple with some astringency and a faintly oxidized taste. This is somewhat limp and doesn't do a lot for me. This might have been over-decanted. Group average 89.

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• 1997 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel #10 95 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  The honeyed nose shows plastic verging on sweet diesel. The palate shows vibrant acidity with amazing mouthfeel, tangy, sweet and sour, pineapple, citrus, very explosive. The finish is long, long, a rocking good wine! Group average 92.875.

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• 2002 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese *** Auction 95 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  AP# 6-03. The nose shows fruit cocktail and talc with sweet mandarin orange and a mineral nuance. I was fairly certain this wasn't from the Mosel due to the orange scents, but I was wrong. Wowza, the palate is lavish and lush. This is so ripe that the acid is obscured, but with time more acidity peeks out. Group average 95.071 and WOTN.

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Finally we moved on a series of dessert wines capped by the 1977 Taylor. Wow!

• 1995 Feiler-Artinger Ruster Ausbruch 86 Points

  Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland

  The somewhat ponderous nose shows burnt caramel and botrytis. On the palate this has racy acidity, that is almost pokey and obtrusive. Despite the ample raw material, this is somewhat disjoint. Maybe this will settle down with some time.

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• 1994 Domaine Ernest Burn Gewurztraminer Goldert Clos Saint Imer Sélection de Grains Nobles 92 Points

  France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

  This is somewhat peppery on the nose with a peppery, spicy, almost searing (and hot) palate. Despite the negative descriptors, this was flamboyant and very enjoyable.

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• 1995 Schoffit Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos St.-Théobald Sélection de Grains Nobles 94 Points

  France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

  Wow, this stood out from the other white dessert wines for me. The ripe nose shows a hint of cotton candy, botrytis, and a faint hint of nuttiness. This shows deep, golden color with crisp acidity and caramel. it reminds me of a green apple tart with caramel sauce, so tangy and sweet. This is very intense, vibrant and long, yummy!

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• 1995 Erwin Tinhof Trockenbeerenauslese 88 Points

  Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee

  30% each Pinot Blanc, Welschriesling, Neuberger, and 10% Muskat-Ottonel. A very nice dessert wine yet compared to the others this was some raspy with attacking acidity, somewhat lean. Perhaps my palate was worked over at this point.

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• 1977 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage 98 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Well, we had to end with a change. After 10 hours in the decanter this showed spice cake, toffee, mint and some youthful spirit. As when we had it in April, it showed light color that belied the actual power of the wine. Oh my goodness, this has so much intensity, spice and length. This is a powerhouse, amazingly long and stunning. This bottle was actually a leaker, but it showed no signs of any issue. This is the best port I have ever tasted in my limited experience, wow, a great way to end the evening.

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