10% abv. AP 4. It's my first taste of 2024 wine, from anywhere, and I love how the drinking precisely matches the model I formed after reading about the growing season. The aim is startling in accuracy, and a mark of truth in viticulture. Leave it to Mosel, Riesling, and Julian Haart to make it happen.
Almost pays nantais-like salinity, straw, and lemon blossom. Restrained, effectively dry. Hawthorn returns. Busy quenching action is transparent and worthy of state receptions. Zero perfume bombast; no heady, intensely flavored glycerin. Just cool relaxed poses on rock. Fit for an all purpose white wine slot.
13% abv. AP 10. 59°F. Disgorged one glass 24 hours ago, resealed, fridge. Massive, inward, and eerie. As it heaves resistance to surface tension (genetic artillery), it suggests the usual JBB-brilliant, clear, essential, substance. At first it recalls old memories of François Jobard, and white Hermitage. Gradually the etched stone face of Walkenberg emerges, along with maddening sicilian lemon oils and delicate spring herbs (radish greens). Preposterous density of extract; irresistible to drink. Not nearly as high-pitched and anxious as 2021. If it's scarce where you are, consider waiting a year or ten to drink it.
512 days lapse, 3/6. 10.5% abv. AP 1. 50°F. Intensely structural to smell; hemp, apple twig, cracked stone, and petrol. The drink is just a bit more relaxed than from my last bottle in 2024; acid lurks and emerges to finish. All very bracing, like a cold, aromatic slap. Green apple peel bitter and sweet, glycerin, strawberry seed. Thrilling to contemplate by every thin sip at 59°F (digestif tested). ________ 24 hours resealed fridge; even prettier, and more coherent.
515 days lapse. After a few minutes to gain traction, scented of lime filet, minced lemon hulls, and mint pesto. Very fresh and new tasting. Sweet blue slate sensations finish. The acid (10.8 g) is relaxed enough now to show its residual sugar (26 g). 91. ________ 24 hours resealed fridge. Tastes better today. Drier. More air moving across storied stone. 92
777 days lapse. 9.5% abv. AP 05. 57-60° F. Rain shower, nerve quenching, that's the soul of this object. It even flirts with the kind of temper and stability that I associate with good, properly aged white Burgundy. Original floral ambience, apple peel, and rose petal shroud steep stone sensations. Exquisitely moderated compared to previous encounters with this vintage; ever flavor transparent and shocking fresh. Sweetness is more texture than flavor. Acidity is reclined. Expect peak to span 2030-2040.
1082 days lapse. 12.5% abv. AP 10. Three years ago this vintage was a riot of scent, fat, and acid. Today it is much leaner and more integrated. The future is evident, and promising, even if the wine is in limbo (2023-2027). Busy sensations of lemon phenolics, cress, and sea coast wash gripping, particulate chalks and flagstone. An incredibly long, satisfying, finish chimes muscular and delicate harmonics. Ghostly wintergreen. Drink 2028-2038. ________ aeration and higher temp elaborates the event greatly. The first few drinks were 93 question mark. Then it settled into 94. Now > an hour later it is stunning. Fiery. Penetrating apricot candy. Darjeeling. Wild lemon zest chaw finish. All the better after 24 hours. Best at 59° F (15° C). Allow yourself to drink it now, but I expect more accomplishment in 2029.
12.5% abv. AP 18. Warmly scented of green strawberry syrup (piña veg.,) stone, and grass. Then it moves toward lemon zest and cold harvest herbs. Tightly organized texture is bone dry and glycerin. Savory, clean, fresh; an echo of marine jerky calls from the base. Chili seed. Ginger gel. Acidity would be ruthless, but it's overwhelmed by marble. Fire and extract. Penetrating. Pristine and brutal. Impressive wine. Scandalously under-priced. Too brutal? Drink 2026-2028. ________ 24 hours resealed fridge. Uninteresting <55° F. Aim for 59°.
1664 days lapse. 12.5% abv. AP 24. Undeclared feinherb. The first gold pastel pour shows dust of suspended gas, though the texture of the drink is still. Bouquet is fat stone, scented of fallen peaches, poached limes, salt, and crunchy, bitter, green herbs. Round mouth. A boozy glance. Filled with fresh and broiled ruby grapefruit, rose, lemon peel, and boston candy shell. Cooling wintergreen chalk. Faintly haunted by darkroom chemistry and baby powder. Macadamia nut. Whereas the last time I drank it this was on the dry side, now it is on the sweeter side of feinherb—fading acid flavor. The aroma has a crease of mineral that is lost in the taste. ________ 24 hours resealed fridge. Impressive, packed with flavor, and very slightly tedious. 88
496 days lapse. 7.5% abv. AP 02. The smell is sticky green grape pulled apart by savory impulses. Gorgeous drink. Translucent veils of flavor. Casually fruit flavored (sloe, citrus, melon) framed in dulse and almond. Long, delicate finish with a subtle cleansing surge of mineral and acid. Nowhere near peak. Look for that in 2031. I wish I had more Willi Schaefer wine than I do.
1394 days lapse. 13% abv. AP 16. Four hours ago it initiated a correct artillery of tense mint green wax and muddled apricot, piña, and fallen lemons. The drink is encumbered slightly with weathered, damp masonry. Powerful and sharply edged. Now after sitting open at 64°F it strides with confidence. Shearing slabs of sediment and marble. Ballast. Dynamic. Scented of green pollen. A tonic blanket of stony acid. Presents itself dry, tender, and chewy, but not fat. I keep GG's on a short leash for aging. This is ready to drink as it still shows plenty of fresh botanical aroma. ________ 4 days resealed in the fridge, the last 3 oz. taste very good, and better than it did in the first few hours.
2024 Julian Haart Riesling 1,000 Liters 90 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
(1/5/2026)
10% abv. AP 4. It's my first taste of 2024 wine, from anywhere, and I love how the drinking precisely matches the model I formed after reading about the growing season. The aim is startling in accuracy, and a mark of truth in viticulture. Leave it to Mosel, Riesling, and Julian Haart to make it happen.
Almost pays nantais-like salinity, straw, and lemon blossom. Restrained, effectively dry. Hawthorn returns. Busy quenching action is transparent and worthy of state receptions. Zero perfume bombast; no heady, intensely flavored glycerin. Just cool relaxed poses on rock. Fit for an all purpose white wine slot.
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2023 J.B. Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Alte Reben Spätlese Trocken 96 Points
Germany, Rheingau
(1/8/2026)
13% abv. AP 10. 59°F. Disgorged one glass 24 hours ago, resealed, fridge. Massive, inward, and eerie. As it heaves resistance to surface tension (genetic artillery), it suggests the usual JBB-brilliant, clear, essential, substance. At first it recalls old memories of François Jobard, and white Hermitage. Gradually the etched stone face of Walkenberg emerges, along with maddening sicilian lemon oils and delicate spring herbs (radish greens). Preposterous density of extract; irresistible to drink. Not nearly as high-pitched and anxious as 2021. If it's scarce where you are, consider waiting a year or ten to drink it.
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2022 Hofgut Falkenstein Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett trocken "Mutter Anna" #1 92 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
(1/9/2026)
512 days lapse, 3/6. 10.5% abv. AP 1. 50°F. Intensely structural to smell; hemp, apple twig, cracked stone, and petrol. The drink is just a bit more relaxed than from my last bottle in 2024; acid lurks and emerges to finish. All very bracing, like a cold, aromatic slap. Green apple peel bitter and sweet, glycerin, strawberry seed. Thrilling to contemplate by every thin sip at 59°F (digestif tested).
________
24 hours resealed fridge; even prettier, and more coherent.
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2021 Weingut Hermann Ludes Riesling "Hermann" 92 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
(1/11/2026)
515 days lapse. After a few minutes to gain traction, scented of lime filet, minced lemon hulls, and mint pesto. Very fresh and new tasting. Sweet blue slate sensations finish. The acid (10.8 g) is relaxed enough now to show its residual sugar (26 g). 91.
________
24 hours resealed fridge. Tastes better today. Drier. More air moving across storied stone. 92
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2020 Julian Haart J.J. Riesling Kabinett 93 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
(1/13/2026)
777 days lapse. 9.5% abv. AP 05. 57-60° F. Rain shower, nerve quenching, that's the soul of this object. It even flirts with the kind of temper and stability that I associate with good, properly aged white Burgundy. Original floral ambience, apple peel, and rose petal shroud steep stone sensations. Exquisitely moderated compared to previous encounters with this vintage; ever flavor transparent and shocking fresh. Sweetness is more texture than flavor. Acidity is reclined. Expect peak to span 2030-2040.
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2019 Weingut Keller Riesling von der Fels 94 Points
Germany, Rheinhessen
(1/15/2026)
1082 days lapse. 12.5% abv. AP 10. Three years ago this vintage was a riot of scent, fat, and acid. Today it is much leaner and more integrated. The future is evident, and promising, even if the wine is in limbo (2023-2027). Busy sensations of lemon phenolics, cress, and sea coast wash gripping, particulate chalks and flagstone. An incredibly long, satisfying, finish chimes muscular and delicate harmonics. Ghostly wintergreen. Drink 2028-2038.
________
aeration and higher temp elaborates the event greatly. The first few drinks were 93 question mark. Then it settled into 94. Now > an hour later it is stunning. Fiery. Penetrating apricot candy. Darjeeling. Wild lemon zest chaw finish. All the better after 24 hours. Best at 59° F (15° C). Allow yourself to drink it now, but I expect more accomplishment in 2029.
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2018 Carl Ehrhard Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Urstück "Wilgert" Trocken 90 Points
Germany, Rheingau
(1/19/2026)
12.5% abv. AP 18. Warmly scented of green strawberry syrup (piña veg.,) stone, and grass. Then it moves toward lemon zest and cold harvest herbs. Tightly organized texture is bone dry and glycerin. Savory, clean, fresh; an echo of marine jerky calls from the base. Chili seed. Ginger gel. Acidity would be ruthless, but it's overwhelmed by marble. Fire and extract. Penetrating. Pristine and brutal. Impressive wine. Scandalously under-priced. Too brutal? Drink 2026-2028.
________
24 hours resealed fridge. Uninteresting <55° F. Aim for 59°.
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2017 Kruger-Rumpf Riesling Im Langenberg 89 Points
Germany, Nahe
(1/24/2026)
1664 days lapse. 12.5% abv. AP 24. Undeclared feinherb. The first gold pastel pour shows dust of suspended gas, though the texture of the drink is still. Bouquet is fat stone, scented of fallen peaches, poached limes, salt, and crunchy, bitter, green herbs. Round mouth. A boozy glance. Filled with fresh and broiled ruby grapefruit, rose, lemon peel, and boston candy shell. Cooling wintergreen chalk. Faintly haunted by darkroom chemistry and baby powder. Macadamia nut. Whereas the last time I drank it this was on the dry side, now it is on the sweeter side of feinherb—fading acid flavor. The aroma has a crease of mineral that is lost in the taste.
________
24 hours resealed fridge. Impressive, packed with flavor, and very slightly tedious. 88
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2016 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett #2 92 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
(1/26/2026)
496 days lapse. 7.5% abv. AP 02. The smell is sticky green grape pulled apart by savory impulses. Gorgeous drink. Translucent veils of flavor. Casually fruit flavored (sloe, citrus, melon) framed in dulse and almond. Long, delicate finish with a subtle cleansing surge of mineral and acid. Nowhere near peak. Look for that in 2031. I wish I had more Willi Schaefer wine than I do.
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2015 Müller-Catoir Haardter Bürgergarten Im Breumel Riesling Großes Gewächs 91 Points
Germany, Pfalz
(1/30/2026)
1394 days lapse. 13% abv. AP 16. Four hours ago it initiated a correct artillery of tense mint green wax and muddled apricot, piña, and fallen lemons. The drink is encumbered slightly with weathered, damp masonry. Powerful and sharply edged. Now after sitting open at 64°F it strides with confidence. Shearing slabs of sediment and marble. Ballast. Dynamic. Scented of green pollen. A tonic blanket of stony acid. Presents itself dry, tender, and chewy, but not fat. I keep GG's on a short leash for aging. This is ready to drink as it still shows plenty of fresh botanical aroma.
________
4 days resealed in the fridge, the last 3 oz. taste very good, and better than it did in the first few hours.
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