Consistent with my experience last year, open-knit and surprisingly generous for 2008 which made me guess '12 at first (after the bottle shape meant that it could only be Comtes). Very pleasurable albeit a little one-dimensional compared to the outstanding growers that came later.
Base 2021, 100% Petit Meslier, disgorged Feb 2024, 2g/l dosage. A little natty and austere at first, clearly grower in style. Bright orchard fruit that became more expressive with air as the wine developed greater harmony. Good complexity but not as complete as the outstanding Gaspard and La Rogerie that came later, slightly bitter finish.
More expressive than the previous bottle I’ve had. Typical Gaspard profile - superb purity of red fruit with a saline streak, crisp acidity and excellent tension. Transparent and precise, close call between this and La Rogerie with most others marginally preferring this, but I found La Rogerie to be slightly more compelling.
Brought for a friend and consistent with my previous impression. Ripe citrus fruit with outstanding verve despite the rounder and creamier texture. Gaspard was racier but I loved how expressive this was without being shouty. A very complete wine, glad I bought this when I could.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Saw the producer on the capsule so the plot wasn't difficult to guess, but thought this was more mature from a warmer vintage so guessed '09. Very classic old-school white Burgundy with vanilla notes and a broad mid-palate without lacking tension. But more developed than I expected with some slight honey notes so would drink these up sooner rather than later.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
My extra bottle, wanted to give this test drive as I recently bought a few more bottles from this producer after a great visit last year. Some guessed new-world due to the initial sweetness of fruit, but there was no excessive gloss and an earthy undertone quickly pointed most to a young Burgundy. Open-knit at first with primary blackcurrant fruit dominating, but after a couple of hours the tannins began to assert themselves and the wine's structure became more obvious. Still very youthful with plenty of potential. Basically completely agree with PCLIN’s note from a year ago below.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Clearly Gevrey with dark, savoury fruit that was unfortunately dominated by drying tannins and shrill acidity. Fruit wasn't at the forefront or vibrant so I guessed this to be much older like '96 or '08. No mid-palate or lift to speak off, an unbalanced wine from a mediocre producer that I avoid.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Surprisingly disappointing. Monotonous cherry fruit with a candied edge that was reminiscent of Gamay. But stylistically clearly Gevrey, so I guessed an average producer’s 2011 given the lack of depth and high acidity. A rare underwhelming showing from this domaine, though their Gevrey bottlings don’t outperform peers from my experience (especially at their price point).
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Grande Rue Grand Cru
Old-school in profile but I guessed late '00s Vosne with the spicy, floral lift. Masculine style so I guessed Michel Gros Clos des Reas when revealed to be a monopole because it didn't have the presence of a Vosne GC. Not the most seductive Vosne but tannins were refined compared to the Clavelier alongside which I thought bore some stylistic similarities.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
My contribution. Most guessed Chambolle correctly and placed it in 2012. Slight reduction on the nose at first with dark, slightly plummy cherry fruit on the palate. Similar in style to the Lamarche that was served alongside; both were more masculine and structured expressions of typically more elegant villages. Less rustic than I expected from the domaine with good freshness, but tannins were firmer than the Lamarche. Good for its level.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Producer was not difficult to guess given the high-toned, elegant style but I went for '12 Suchots because it didn't have the presence of the Malconsorts that I tasted in HK last year. Absolutely wonderful finesse and purity of red fruit though despite missing the GC weight, always love the silky signature of the producer. Surprisingly approachable now but still with plenty of potential, clearly the red WOTN.
2008 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 93 Points
France, Champagne
Consistent with my experience last year, open-knit and surprisingly generous for 2008 which made me guess '12 at first (after the bottle shape meant that it could only be Comtes). Very pleasurable albeit a little one-dimensional compared to the outstanding growers that came later.
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NV Étienne Calsac Champagne Les Revenants 91 Points
France, Champagne
Base 2021, 100% Petit Meslier, disgorged Feb 2024, 2g/l dosage. A little natty and austere at first, clearly grower in style. Bright orchard fruit that became more expressive with air as the wine developed greater harmony. Good complexity but not as complete as the outstanding Gaspard and La Rogerie that came later, slightly bitter finish.
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NV Gaspard Brochet Champagne Extra Brut Le Coq Tome I 94 Points
France, Champagne
More expressive than the previous bottle I’ve had. Typical Gaspard profile - superb purity of red fruit with a saline streak, crisp acidity and excellent tension. Transparent and precise, close call between this and La Rogerie with most others marginally preferring this, but I found La Rogerie to be slightly more compelling.
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2019 La Rogerie Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Champ Bouton 95 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Brought for a friend and consistent with my previous impression. Ripe citrus fruit with outstanding verve despite the rounder and creamier texture. Gaspard was racier but I loved how expressive this was without being shouty. A very complete wine, glad I bought this when I could.
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2016 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Saw the producer on the capsule so the plot wasn't difficult to guess, but thought this was more mature from a warmer vintage so guessed '09. Very classic old-school white Burgundy with vanilla notes and a broad mid-palate without lacking tension. But more developed than I expected with some slight honey notes so would drink these up sooner rather than later.
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2023 Domaine Le Guellec-Ducouet Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Champs 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
My extra bottle, wanted to give this test drive as I recently bought a few more bottles from this producer after a great visit last year. Some guessed new-world due to the initial sweetness of fruit, but there was no excessive gloss and an earthy undertone quickly pointed most to a young Burgundy. Open-knit at first with primary blackcurrant fruit dominating, but after a couple of hours the tannins began to assert themselves and the wine's structure became more obvious. Still very youthful with plenty of potential. Basically completely agree with PCLIN’s note from a year ago below.
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2017 Domaine Henri Richard Charmes-Chambertin 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Clearly Gevrey with dark, savoury fruit that was unfortunately dominated by drying tannins and shrill acidity. Fruit wasn't at the forefront or vibrant so I guessed this to be much older like '96 or '08. No mid-palate or lift to speak off, an unbalanced wine from a mediocre producer that I avoid.
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2014 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 89 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Surprisingly disappointing. Monotonous cherry fruit with a candied edge that was reminiscent of Gamay. But stylistically clearly Gevrey, so I guessed an average producer’s 2011 given the lack of depth and high acidity. A rare underwhelming showing from this domaine, though their Gevrey bottlings don’t outperform peers from my experience (especially at their price point).
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2005 Domaine François Lamarche La Grande Rue 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Grande Rue Grand Cru
Old-school in profile but I guessed late '00s Vosne with the spicy, floral lift. Masculine style so I guessed Michel Gros Clos des Reas when revealed to be a monopole because it didn't have the presence of a Vosne GC. Not the most seductive Vosne but tannins were refined compared to the Clavelier alongside which I thought bore some stylistic similarities.
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2012 Domaine Bruno Clavelier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Noirots Vieilles Vignes 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
My contribution. Most guessed Chambolle correctly and placed it in 2012. Slight reduction on the nose at first with dark, slightly plummy cherry fruit on the palate. Similar in style to the Lamarche that was served alongside; both were more masculine and structured expressions of typically more elegant villages. Less rustic than I expected from the domaine with good freshness, but tannins were firmer than the Lamarche. Good for its level.
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2016 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Producer was not difficult to guess given the high-toned, elegant style but I went for '12 Suchots because it didn't have the presence of the Malconsorts that I tasted in HK last year. Absolutely wonderful finesse and purity of red fruit though despite missing the GC weight, always love the silky signature of the producer. Surprisingly approachable now but still with plenty of potential, clearly the red WOTN.
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