La Paulée de San Francisco Verticals Tasting
The Pearl, San Francisco
Tasted Friday, February 27, 2026 by drwine2001 with 104 views
Introduction
A very selective look. I skipped over some producers altogether, and where you see less than 3 vintages of a wine noted, it is because I passed on some vintages of some wines that were less interesting to me. Within each trio of wines, the order of the notes reflects the actual tasting order suggested by the individual producers.
2018 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé
France, Champagne
Magnum. Creamy aromas. Medium weight. Sweet citrus, good acidity, not a lot of minerality.
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2014 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé
France, Champagne
Magnum. Less lively than the 2018. Lower pitched citrus. Medium weight. Herbal and slightly bitter.
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2012 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé
France, Champagne
Magnum. Slightly green tint. Less bubbly. Deep citrus, slightly oxidative. Excellent acidity and most stone of the 3 vintages but bitter finish mars it.
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2014 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Magnum. Pale greenish. Citrus and sulfur. Medium body. Sweet orange attack, good glycerine and salinity, moderate oak, but where's the acidity?? Too loose for 2014.
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2012 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Less fruit than 2014 but rich and textural with light wood, good saltiness and acidity. Nice stony finish. Much better than the younger wine.
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2017 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Magnum. Light yellow. Nice oyster/sea shore aromas. Medium body, wonderful feel. Sweet citrus, very good soil, excellent acidity and length. A winner.
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2014 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Magnum. Light yellow. Airy, floral fragrance. Lean, crisp citrus, great acidity. Beautiful fruit/acid balance and a long stony finish. Outstanding and the best of the 3 very strong vintages here.
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2009 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Magnum. Still light yellow. Rich, mellow nose with low key tropical fruit. Medium weight. A touch of pineapple and pear balanced by excellent salinity and acidity. This is in great shape and is an excellent result from this ripe year.
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2014 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Magnum. Pale. Stone and herb. Medium weight. Citrus fruit, powerfully stony and dry with great acidity, cut, and length. Will benefit from more aging. Wow-all that from a humble Saint Aubin. One of the best white wines of the day (along with the other 2 vintages of this wine!)
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2016 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Magnum. Light yellow. Pear more than citrus. Medium+ weight, more glycerine than the 2014. Late citrus and soil. Excellent acidity, long finish. Especially impressive for the vintage.
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2017 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Magnum. Light yellow. Underripe lemon aroma. Medium body and sappy, Lovely sweet entry and feel. Also great acidity and length, focused stony finish. Wow, these Lamy wines are so damn good!
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2020 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Medium yellow. Ripe citrus and oak. Medium to full bodied. Sappy and rich with significant oak base. Orchard fruit in the mouth, fine acidity. Although I'd prefer less wood, this is fresh and excellent.
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2019 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Medium yellow. Some toasty wood but more citrus. In the mouth, slighter lighter, brighter, and more mineral than the 2020, citric, discrete oak application, higher acidity. Outstanding lieu dit.
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2014 Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. Muted nose. Medium body-delicate, elegant feel. Light wood, nice acidity, lively pear, but dilute mid-palate. Disappointing for this great white wine vintage.
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2009 Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Fuller yellow. Rounder and richer than the 2014. Light toasty oak, sweet fruit that veers toward the tropical but buffered by excellent acidity. Very good length. I prefer this to the younger wine despite some exoticism.
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2023 Pierre Morey Bâtard-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Yellow. Oaky nose. Rich, ripe, and glycerine, creamy and some leesiness. Ripe pear and peach. Good acidity and excellent finish. Wish it had more backbone and oomph.
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2020 Pierre Morey Bâtard-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Yellow. Fresher nose than the 2023 with some perfume already. Lighter and more lacy than that wine. Lively fruit, excellent acidity, beautiful mix of citrus and soil, very discrete wood, and excellent length. Beautiful and the best of the 3 vintages.
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2018 Pierre Morey Bâtard-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Light yellow. Lower pitched aromas with prominent toasty oak. Sweet pear entry, obvious wood, lower acidity, and a bitter, short finish.
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2018 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Champans
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Magnum. Clear ruby. Complex aromatics. Medium+ weight, quite sappy. Vivid, ripe but not sweet berries intermingled with soil. Very solid acidity, mouthcoating fine tannins. Terrific and outstanding balance for the year. My favorite of the 3 vintages.
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2010 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Champans
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Magnum. Light ruby with fading. Funky nose. Medium weight. Nicely supple. More soil than fruit, but this has enough flesh. Citric finish, sneaky assertive dry tannins. Not completely clean, and somehow not as good as it should be.
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2005 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Champans
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Magnum. Ruby center. Black fruited, tannic aromas. Medium+ body, sappy. Dark fruit/soil/ herb mix with pretty severe tannins. A typical tough 2005 with sweetness and richness locked up behind the structure. Twenty more years until ready?
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2021 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Pale ruby. Strong fennel and menthol. Lean, stalky, green, high acid, tannic. If you squint hard, you can detect some red fruit on the horizon. Probably a terrible time to be tasting this, but it still reminds me of other vintages of Clos des Ducs that were too austere and never came around. Not a lot of pleasure and by far the worst of 6 vintages of this wine that I tried today.
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2018 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light ruby. Peppery aromas. Medium- weight. Lovely herb/fruit balance, excellent acidity and texture. Moderately earthy tannins but not nearly as gripping as in the 2021. At least excellent and already complex. Needs at least 6 to 8 more years.
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2020 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Ruby. Perfumed. Medium to full bodied-big for Volnay! Lush ripe berry fruit balanced by soil and very fine acidity. Great fruit/terroir mix and lovely natural sweetness. Best of the 3 vintages poured.
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2012 Henri et Gilles Buisson Corton-Renardes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Mature garnet, browning. Medium body. Nicely supple mixture mixture of char, sweet dark red fruit, and light soil which increases toward the finish. Excellent acidity and largely resolved tannins. A rather gentle Corton that lacks authority but is delicious now.
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2016 Henri et Gilles Buisson Corton-Renardes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Light ruby. Off, funky nose. Harsh green flavors and black fruit. Very tannic. No.
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2017 Henri et Gilles Buisson Corton-Renardes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Ruby core, lighter rim. Fragrant green herb. Medium weight. Dark red fruit balanced by moderate earthy tannins and herbal notes. Excellent freshness and flow. Light but persistent tannins. Excellent and the finest of the 3 vintages.
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2019 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Ruby. Heady, spicy red berry aromas. Medium weight, real sappiness. Beautiful sweet mouthcoating red and black fruit on the attack and mid-palate. Round, pliant, and relatively open. Late soil and tannins that steadily rise. Still early days for this in its primary fruit phase, but my goodness, what fruit it is. Already wildly delicious. My favorite of the 3 wines poured.
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2015 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Ruby center, lighter edge. Medium to lighter weight. Sneaky sweetness, higher acid than the 2019 and more savory flavors with drier, less forgiving tannins. Excellent fruit/soil balance. Needs 10 years but undoubtedly excellent.
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2012 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Mature appearance with early browning. More green and stemmy than the other 2 wines. Medium to lighter weight, some wood underneath. Faded but gently sweet fruit, more green elements, dusty tannins, and short, lean finish. I thought this was really good 6 years ago, but if this bottle is indicative, it has precipitously declined since then. Far more advanced than it should be.
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2015 Thibault Liger-Belair Richebourg
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Ruby. Full bodied. Light wood imprint. Powerful earth and dark fruit. Round, seamless, sappy, deep, and serious. Beautiful acidity, late citrus, and substantial but not severe chocolatey ripe tannins. Amazing wine, absolutely complete. I was floored by the 2022 last year, but this might even be better. The wine of the tasting for me.
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2010 Thibault Liger-Belair Richebourg
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Light ruby. Medium body. Slight char, red berry, long thread of earth, excellent acidity, and tannins which seem deceptively gentle but reach the teeth. More green notes than the 2015. Completely different in that this is a very elegant, suave terroir wine rather than a powerhouse, but it too is enormously impressive with many years of upside. Bravo!
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2005 Thibault Liger-Belair Richebourg
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Ruby with some lightening. Menthol aromas. Middle weight. Round and sappy with excellent fruit/herb interplay, excellent acidity, and dry tannins, some from wood, that are substantial but not brutal. Serious, relatively backward 2005 that is slowly creeping toward maturity but not there yet. One senses significant advances in the winemaking and a lighter touch comparing the 2015 to the 2005. Incredibly generous to pour these rarities.
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2017 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Ruby. Herb tones. Light to medium body. Elegant feel. Light char, lovely black cherry, long vein of soil, quite tannic. Delicate but persistent. I adored this and would love to taste it in another 15 years when it is fully unfurled. A pipe dream.
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2018 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Ruby. Bright berry and herb on the nose. Larger scaled and sappier than the 2017. Beautiful black fruit, lower acidity, and clinging tannins. Excellent but definitely the product of a warmer vintage.
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2015 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Ruby, some early fading. Very fragrant, open, high toned floral aromas-absolutely intoxicating. Sweet red berry fruit, great underpinning of soil throughout, excellent acidity, and rising tannins. At once powerful and subtle. Outstanding length. Give it 10+ years and it will be a star.
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2017 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Pale ruby. Fragrant herbal perfume-very Lambrays. Medium body. Subtle, sophisticated red fruit and herbal flavors. Wonderful feel and flow across the palate. Strong whole cluster at the back end, and the tannins need a good 5 to 8 years to soften. Excellent, perhaps even better in due course.
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2016 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Light ruby core. Forwardly fragrant. Medium to lighter weight. Mixed fruit and piquant citrus, outstanding acidity, less green notes than the 2017, nice soil base. Lively and elegant, earthy tannic finish. Already delightful and approachable, but clearly more to come.
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2015 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Light ruby. Darker, more restrained somber aromas than the younger wines. Medium+ body, clearly the biggest and sappiest of the 3 vintages. Outstanding concentrated blacker fruit and soil. Serious, backward, and tannic. The least typical wine in lacking those hallmark herbal notes. Outstanding potential but begs for another 15 years in the cellar.
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2022 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Ruby. Incredible gushing red berry aromas. Medium weight but mouth filling and expansive. Gorgeous balance of soil and deeply imbued red fruit. Fine tannic finish. This is incredibly attractive young.
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2016 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Surprisingly mature color. More green than fruit aromas. Medium weight, sappy entry, lively citric acidity, grainy tannins, excellent length. Needs 10 years to resolve the tannins, but I’m confused about where exactly on the aging curve this wine sits. Some troubling signs of early decline.
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2012 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Light ruby. Medium weight, not as sappy as the 2016. Spicy, soil-inflected dark red fruit, citrus, char and chocolate arrive later. Supple and fluid until the moderate tannins kick in. Not yet mature but potentially outstanding.
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2017 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru
Pale. Oak char. Lighter weight. Lots of wood. Elegant, sweet red fruit, spice, and citrus. Soil comes up in the finish. Good but overbalanced to oak like older Clos de Tarts.
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2016 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru
Pale. Again the nose dominated by wood char with some spice. Lovely medium weight. Lively and bright in the mouth. Char does not overpower the fruit, spice, and long earthy finish. At least excellent and the best of the trio.
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2012 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru
Light ruby. Medium to light weight. Powerful and backward. Black fruit, excellent acidity and terroir, very tannic. This may be the most shut down wine of the day. Will it ever be more forthcoming?
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2017 David Duband Charmes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light ruby. Attractive red berry aromas. Medium weight. Supple mix of soil, dusty red fruit, and a light base of oak. Citric lift at the end. Excellent length. Lovely and satisfyingly substantial for a Charmes.
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2016 David Duband Charmes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light ruby center. More herb than fruit on the nose. Medium to light weight. Peppery, not at all fruit forward. In fact, high acidity, stemmy, tannic, and much less harmonious than the 2017. Past peak at this tender age.
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