RJ’s birthday weekend

I met most of my closest friends through wine. RJ is one of the most generous and thoughtful wfriends I have. This was supposed to be a surprise 70th birthday party. However, RJ, being a social butterfly with almost daily commitments, was informed that we would fly down to celebrate this momentous occasion. Four of us flew down to South Carolina. Jeff R. generously hosted us at his beautiful new pad in Berkeley Hall.

We dined at Berkeley Hall club house. The she crab soup was hearty and delicious. Jeff kindly opened a couple bottles.

• 2017 Aubert Chardonnay Sugar Shack 95 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

  (2/27/2026)

  Intense golden color, with the nose and palate to match. Expressive nose displaying concentrated yellow fruit, peach, a hint of pineapple, lemon curd, sesame, toasted oak, light ginger, honey, sweet spices, and steely minerality. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of succulent yellow fruit, rich, dense, and full, bright acidity, strong mineral, and a long, concentrated, yellow fruit-driven finish. This is a big scale classic Aubert.

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• 2014 Fantesca Pinot Noir King Richard's Reserve 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  (2/27/2026)

  Start to show maturity, concentrated very ripe black and red fruit, dark cherry, cherry, strawberry jam, a hint of sous bois, caramel, burnt sugar, cinnamon and earth. Excellent concentration, generous black fruit, rich and full, medium acidity, earthy mineral, and a medium to long sweet ripe dark fruit driven finish. This is a textbook CA pinot with very ripe black and red fruit that is not unlike Aubert Pinot.

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We had a private chef who cooked us a three-course meal.

• 2023 Dominique Cornin Mâcon-Chaintré Les Serreuxdières 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Chaintré

  (2/27/2026)

  Medium expressive nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, peach, lemon curd, a hint of oak, sweet spices and limestone. Very good concentration, generous yellow fruit, oily and rich, medium acidity, medium mineral, and a medium long finish. Perhaps slightly cloying but pretty solid.

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• 2018 Morlet Family Vineyards La Proportion Dorée 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  (2/27/2026)

  A moderately expressive nose displaying ripe, concentrated, somewhat nondescript yellow and white fruit, perhaps lemon curd and white peach, honey, light caramel, and sweet spices. Limited mineral expression and not showing Sauvignon Blanc pyrazine. A slight hint of heat.
  
  Excellent concentration, feat, rich yellow fruit, dense and oily, medium acidity and a long, concentrated, ripe yellow-fruit driven finish. This may be best consumed upon release to fully enjoy its flamboyant fruit profile.

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• 2015 Peter Michael Chardonnay Cuvée Indigene 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley

  (2/27/2026)

  Beautiful golden color. Very ripe yellow fruit and very rich, perhaps slightly cloying. Like the Dorée, it is better consumed soon after release.

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• 2016 Fratelli Grasso Barbaresco Vallegrande 90 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  (2/27/2026)

  Medium expressive nose displaying lighter red fruit, strawberry and cherry, rose, light sap, sweet spices and iron. Medium concentration, light red fruit, medium acidity, light mineral and a medium long cherry fruit driven finish. There is a hint of fizz which reduces the fruit expression. This is a lighter style red fruit driven Barbaresco. Not terribly complex and substantive.

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• 1989 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon Flawed

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  (2/27/2026)

  My contribution. Incredibly youthful color, though the back label is wine-stained. The wine appears very youthful, but the fruit is slightly muted. I suspect the bottle may have been heat-damaged at some point. Still enjoyable, with a classic, concentrated Syrah profile, though not a representative example.

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• 2005 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 97 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  (2/27/2026)

  Expressive nose displaying concentrated black and red fruit, blackberry liqueur, black cherry, ink, smoked meat, dark spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated black and red fruit, rich, dense and full but also beautiful detail and balance, bright acidity, strong mineral, and a long concentrated black and red fruit driven finish. This wine remains quite youthful. Excellent showing and can improve.

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• 2010 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée da Capo Flawed

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  (2/27/2026)

  Corked, bummer!

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• 1989 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Centenaire 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  (2/27/2026)

  Fully mature nose displaying slightly dry black and red fruit, blackberry, dry cherry, plum, tobacco, garrigue, sap, sweet spices and earth. Very good concentration, finely layered black and red fruit, silky and elegant for a CDP, medium acidity and mineral, and a long black and red fruit driven finish. This is a beautifully mature CDP that is drinking well. However, no need to wait.

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• 2005 Vérité La Joie 95 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County

  (2/27/2026)

  An expressive nose displaying generous black fruit, cassis, blackberry, black cherry, lead pencil, Cabernet floral dust, espresso, dark spices, and limestone. There is a hint of green/pyrazine character, but it is not bothersome. Excellent concentration, generous black fruit, silky and fluid, bright acidity, fine limestone and a long black fruit driven finish. There is a slight old school aspect, i.e. a touch of green, a la Philip Togni but also the rich modern cult style. Drinking very well.

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RJ organized a lunch at a sushi restaurant. After lunch, we walked around town with a cup of the ’18 Combettes in our hands.

• 2006 Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux

  (2/28/2026)

  Beautifully mature nose displaying decadent yellow fruit, lemon curd, starfruit, kiwi, lanoline, honeysuckle, sweet spices and fine mineral. Beautifully integrated palate, layers upon layers of rich sweet yellow fruit, oily and dense but also beautifully balance, medium acidity, strong mineral, and a long concentrated ripe yellow fruit driven finish with lanoline at the end. This is drinking beautifully.

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• 2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut 98 Points

  France, Champagne

  (2/28/2026)

  Perfectly mature nose displaying succulent yellow fruit with a hint of red, baked apple, lemon curd, cherry sold, brioche, crème brulee and limestone. Excellent concentration, finely layered decadent yellow fruit, rich and ripe but also beautifully balanced and precise, very fine medium generous mousse, bright acidity, fine mineral, and a seamless long decadent yet pure yellow fruit driven finish. This particular bottle shows less bubbles. This is drinking incredibly well.

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• 2018 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  (2/28/2026)

  Expressive nose displaying rich yellow fruit with a hint of white, lemon curd, apple, honey, honeysuckle, flint, sesame/oak, and limestone. Excellent concentration, nicely layered yellow and white fruit, rich and ripe but also showing a good detail and precision, bright acidity, fine mineral, a long generous yellow fruit driven finish with a hint flint at the end. This clearly displays the ripe vintage character but also really enjoyable.

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We were joined by Robert, PJ, and Gene, who are RJ's new wine buddies. Bacchus was also celebrating with us, as all the bottles showed beautifully.

• 2015 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  (2/28/2026)

  I am an outlier as I think this is really not a great champagne. The 15 Champagnes in general show green/pyrazine. Medium expressive nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, a hint of brioche, sweet spices and limestone. There is a noticeable green/jalapeno. Very good concentration, both ripe fruit and green coexist, rich and ripe, slightly coarse medium generous mousse, bright acidity, limestone mineral, and a medium long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of green at the end. A bit disjoined.

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• 2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  (2/28/2026)

  En magnum. Youthful but complex nose displaying decadent red fruit, raspberry, strawberry, brioche, cooper, brioche, rose, sous bois and fine mineral. Excellent concentration, youthful decadent red fruit, fine generous mousse, warm and round, bright acidity, fine mineral, and a long decadent red fruit driven finish with brioche and rose at the end. It seems more youthful in this format. Drinking well but can improve, gaining sous bois and becoming Burgundian, in magnum format.

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• 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  (2/28/2026)

  En magnum. Incredibly youthful nose displaying concentrated, slightly coiled black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, licorice, stem, Vosne spice, strong Chinese herbal medicine, cep, rose and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, very fine layered black fruit, cool, precise and beautifully detailed, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, fine tannins and a long concentrated cool black fruit driven finish with rose and stem at the end. Consistent with the previous bottle, this is evolving slowly. This particular magnum seems more youthful yet less opulent than the previous bottle.

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• 1989 Château Léoville Barton 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

  (2/28/2026)

  Well stored example. Old school nose displaying cool black fruit, cremes de cassis, plum, leather, Cordier funk a la Gruaud Larose, lead pencil, leather, cedar and earth. There is a hint of green that is not bothersome but certainly supports the old school expression. Fully integrated palate, medium generous black fruit, cool and slightly lean, good acidity, earthy mineral, still showing slightly coarse tannins and a medium long cool black fruit driven finish with the funk at the end. Although I like the wine, the others seem to like them more.

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• 2003 Château Pavie 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

  (2/28/2026)

  En magnum. Expressive nose displaying rich black fruit, blackberry liqueur, black cherry, plum, milk chocolate, black truffle, a hint of vanilla/oak, lavender and limestone. Beautifully integrated palate, finely layered generous rich black fruit, rich, round and full, medium acidity and mineral, nicely integrated silky tannins, and a long rich ripe black fruit driven finish. This seems to have evolved a bit more than the 00 Pavie, i.e. rounder and softer. I don’t think I can identify it as the 03 if served blind, i.e. the ripe expression has subsided and showing a nice overall balance.

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• 2000 Château Pavie 99 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

  (2/28/2026)

  En magnum. Incredibly youthful nose displaying super concentrated, opulent black fruit, blackberry concentrate, blackberry liqueur, ink, licorice, cappuccino, lavender, dark spices, and crushed rocks. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of perfectly ripe, opulent black fruit, rich and full yet silky and beautifully balanced, the perfect amount of acidity and mineral and a finish that lasts over a minute. At under $500 on the market, this has to be one of the best value Bordeauxs out there. Not just a great modern Bordeaux, but a truly great Bordeaux, although AFWE will disagree. It is important to note that any remnant of "modern expression" will eventually completely fade with time, leaving a legendary Bordeaux.

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• 2004 Harlan Estate 97 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  (2/28/2026)

  The classic Harland nose displaying incredibly concentrated sweet black fruit, blackberry liqueur, dark chocolate covered cherry, crème de cassis, espresso, milk chocolate, coconut, lavender, liquid smoke, vanilla/oak and crushed rocks. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of sweet dark fruit, rich, sweet, oily and full, bright acidity, strong mineral, fine tannins, and a long opulent sweet black fruit driven finish. This is a text book Harlan that remains very youthful.

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• 1955 Château Lafleur 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  (2/28/2026)

  One of my contributions. Purchased in 2007 from an European dealer when the market for Pomerol was going La La. Definitely from the period but perhaps fabricated by HR. It can also be a real deal. Super concentrated with the sweet fruit that only comes with time, black truffle, sauteed cep, dark chocolate, strong cedar, dark spices and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of mature sweet black fruit, rich, warm, full and unctuous, bright acidity and earthy mineral, and a long mature super sweet black fruit driven finish. Whatever it is, it is quite enjoyable.

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• 2011 Château d'Yquem 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  (2/28/2026)

  En magnum. Intoxicating nose displaying concentrated yellow fruit, dry apricot, peach marmalade, mango, pineapple, saffron, botrytis, candied ginger, crème brulee and sweet and spicy spices. Excellent concentration, generous opulent sweet yellow tropical fruit, rich, full and dense but also beautifully detailed and fluid, bright acidity, and a super long super concentrated yellow fruit driven finish with saffron and candied ginger at the end. The fruit expression has calmed down slightly resulting in better balance.

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• 1871 Real Companhia Vinicola do Norte Bairrada Marquis de Soveral Garrafeira 95 Points

  Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada

  (2/28/2026)

  Light rustic gold. Medium expressive complex nose displaying slightly dry ripe yellow fruit, dry peach, dry orange peel, almond paste, honey, sweet spices and rust. Still showing generous dry yellow fruit, silky and fluid, perfect amount of acidity, iron rust mineral, and a long dry yellow fruit driven finish with marzipan at the end. I still have three. Really fun to try.

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We found out about a farm to table Lowcountry restaurant. To be in touch with Jim Cahill's roots, we had breakfast with a couple bottles of Krug.

• 2004 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  (3/1/2026)

  Beautifully mature nose displaying succulent yellow fruit, baked cinnamon apple, lemon curd, brioche, cinnamon and sweet spices and fine limestone. Beautifully integrated palate, finely layered succulent yellow fruit, perfect balance and precision, very fine generous mousse, bright acidity, fine mineral, and a seamless long succulent yellow fruit driven finish. Exceptional showing.
  
  

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• 2006 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  (3/1/2026)

  Youthful expressive nose displaying concentrated yellow and white fruit, Granny Smith, lemon curd, sweet spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, generous youthful yellow fruit, quite dense but also cool and energetic, slightly coarse mousse, bright acidity, strong mineral, and a long concentrated yellow fruit driven finish. This is more youthful than the 04 but the mousse is more coarse.

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It was nice to be back at RJ's pad. RJ grilled absolutely delicious burgers, and we enjoyed a mini vertical of Rayas.

• 2012 Dom Pérignon Champagne 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  (3/1/2026)

  Youthful energetic nose displaying concentrated yellow fruit, apple, brioche, cool mountain stream, smoke, creme brulee and crushed rocks. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated slightly coiled yellow fruit, rich and full, fine generous mousse, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long concentrated yellow fruit driven finish with brioche at the end. This is very youthful concentrated DP that can improve for another decade or two.

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• 2004 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 97 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  (3/1/2026)

  Intoxicating nose displaying decadent black and red fruit, strawberry jam, dry cherry, strong tobacco, garrigue, sandalwood per Jim which is a great description, sap. cinnamon and earth. Beautifully integrated palate, layers upon layers of decadent black and red fruit, silky, sweet and weightless, perfect amount of acidity, earthy mineral, and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with tobacco at the end. This is a perfectly stored example, the best showing of this wine.

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• 2005 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  (2/28/2026)

  Youthful nose displaying decadent concentrated black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry liqueur, plum, anise, Chinese herbal medicine, cumin, leather, caramel, sap, cumin, dark spices and crushed rock. Exceptional concentration, slightly coiled concentrated black and red fruit, full, deep and round, medium acidity, strong rocky mineral, and a long concentrated very ripe dark fruit driven finish with Chinese herbal medicine at the end. This is not as expressive as the 04 but certainly more concentrated. The fruit is super ripe and slightly shutdown at the moment. Excellent showing.

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• 2006 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  (2/28/2026)

  Youthful expressive nose displaying concentrated sweet red fruit, cherry liqueur, strawberry jam, plum, tobacco, white pepper, beef blood, brown sugar, cinnamon and other dark spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated ripe red fruit, warm, sweet and round, medium acidity, strong mineral, and a long incredibly sweet slightly dry red fruit driven finish with cinnamon at the end. This is closer in style to the 14 but not as expressive in this occasion.

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A great time was had by all, and it was a memorable visit to celebrate RJ's birthday. Our sincere gratitude to Jeff for hosting us!