The Gevrey Gauntlet: A Deep Dive into Domaine Fourrier

There are wine nights, and then there are nights that feel like a forensic interrogation of terroir. Our mission was simple: trace the fingerprint of Jean-Marie Fourrier across two distinct villages, three classifications, and a handful of vintages that range from "solar" to "scholarly." We started high in the clouds with some avant-garde bubbles before descending into the limestone heart of the Côte de Nuits.

We needed a palate-stripper, and we got a lightning bolt. This flight was about tension and texture. In a world of flabby, sugar-laden Champagne, this was a reminder that acidity is a gift, especially when it’s delivered with a mousse that feels like it cost more than my first car. It set the stage perfectly: clean, electric, and unapologetically dry.

• 2018 Salima et Alain Cordeuil Champagne Altitude 350m Bio 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  The nose leans into that gorgeous, slightly oxidative "grower" territory—bruised apple and a hint of wildness. On the palate, it’s all business: searing citrus and a limestone-driven minerality that feels like it was harvested from the clouds. Most impressive was the mousse; incredibly elegant and fine-beaded, it carried a texture that screamed "prestige cuvée." It’s a wine nerd’s Champagne—unapologetically dry, texturally sophisticated, and a perfect palate-stripper for the Pinot marathon ahead.

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A study in personality. We expected the 2015 Chambolle to be the life of the party, but it turned out to be the brooding introvert of the night. In a shocking twist, the 2017 Gevrey stepped up and showed more "slutty" charm than its more prestigious cousin. It was the "Village Heartbreaker" flight—proving that vintage and village don't always follow the script.

• 2015 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny Vieille Vigne 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  A bit of a head-scratcher. Given the solar reputation of 2015, I expected a riot, but this bottle was surprisingly muted. The nose was shy, and the palate kept its cards close to its chest with some faint red fruit that refused to step into the spotlight. Is it a "dumb phase" or just a shy bottle? Either way, it was the introvert of the evening, especially compared to its louder Gevrey cousins.

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• 2017 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  What a glow-up compared to the Chambolle. This wasn’t just open; it was borderline "slutty." It’s already throwing off those gorgeous secondary vibes—leather, damp soil, and forest floor—all wrapped around a core of red and dark fruit. It’s expressive, accessible, and punchy. If all village wines performed like this, the Grand Crus would be out of a job.

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This was the intellectual core of the evening. Comparing the powerful, solar 2015 against the subtle, nuanced 2014 was like choosing between a blockbuster action movie and a French indie film. While the 2014 asked more questions, the 2015 provided all the answers we wanted that night. This vineyard continues to prove it’s a "Premier Cru in village clothing."

• 2015 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echezeaux Vieille Vigne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  This is where Jean-Marie starts to flex. It manages to find a middle ground that the previous bottles missed—it’s significantly more elegant than the village Gevrey and far more talkative than the 2015 Chambolle. It has that characteristic 2015 power but wears it with a tailored, slim-fit silhouette. Precise, vibrant, and starting to hit its stride.

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• 2014 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echezeaux Vieille Vigne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Side-by-side with the 2015, the 2014 is the quiet scholar in the corner. It lacks the brute force and "look-at-me" power of the '15, leaning instead into subtlety and nuance. It’s a beautifully constructed wine, but in this specific lineup, I found myself gravitating back to the energy of the 2015. Still, a masterclass in Fourrier’s lighter-touch vintages.

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Scaling the slope toward the higher elevations of Gevrey. We moved from the "infanticide" of the 2022 Goulots—all primary energy and promise—to the structural beauty of the 2017. This flight was about the architecture of Pinot Noir; seeing the skeleton of the wine in the '22 and the fleshing out of that frame in the '17.

• 2022 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Total infanticide, but I have no regrets. This is 100% primary—pure, unadulterated fruit energy. It’s like tasting a barrel sample that’s already been dressed up for a gala. There’s massive promise here, but it’s currently a hyperactive teenager. Put it in the cellar and forget you own it for five years.

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• 2017 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Now we’re talking. The 2017 is in a fantastic place right now, though those tannins still have a bit of a structural "grip" to them. It needs air—give it an hour in the glass and it begins to relax. It has that classic Goulots high-toned aromatic profile. It’s sturdy, authoritative, and exactly what I want from a Premier Cru.

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The solo finale. The room went quiet for this one. This isn't just a wine; it’s a geographical landmark. The 2020 is a black hole of flavor—dense, concentrated, and regal. It managed to be massive and weightless at the same time, a trick only the best Grand Crus pull off. It made everything else we drank feel like a very expensive warm-up act.

• 2020 Jean-Marie Fourrier Chambertin Vieille Vigne 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

  The final boss of the night. It is, quite simply, a magnificent bottle of wine. It has the weight and gravitas you expect from the biggest name in Gevrey, but it’s still very much a baby. The depth is staggering, but the complexity is still "in-waiting." It needs a decade or two to really shed the baby fat and show its soul. Absolute royalty in a glass.

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Jean-Marie Fourrier’s "light touch" was the thread that held the night together. Even in the riper years, that signature transparency remained. The takeaway? Don't sleep on the 2017 village wines, and if you're lucky enough to have 2020 Chambertin in the cellar, buy a better lock for the door and wait fifteen years.