La Paulée de New York Verticals Tasting
Sky Loft, 50 Hudson Yards, New York
Tasted Friday, March 27, 2026 by drwine2001 with 127 views
Introduction
I have noted the wines in the order they were served by the producers. At some tables, I decided to skip a vintage that was of less interest to me, so there is not a trio of notes in each and every case.
2016 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Yellow/green. Ripe pear. Medium+ body. Sappy, slightly sweet mix of apple and pear. Nice feel. Moderate citric acidity, some wood. Ready. More Mâcon than Chablis.
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2017 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Spiced pear aromas. Medium weight, leaner feel than the 2016. More salinity and acidity, attractive fruit/acid balance. Much preferred this to its older sibling. Excellent.
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2014 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Light yellow. Salt and herbs. Medium weight. Citrus and brine. Excellent acidity. Balanced and long. The best of the 3 vintages and excellent but the intensity is short of outstanding.
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2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Yellow. Oak scents. Medium+ body, sappy, woody base. More apple here, acidity not as strong and bright as in the 2014. Good salinity. Looser and too oaky-preferred the younger wine.
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2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Yellow. Musky scents. Medium weight. Lovely feel, some wood. Ripe fruit with very good tart acidity and oyster elements. I think this was more exciting 5 years ago.
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2019 Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Yellow. Sea breeze. Medium weight, ripe fruit, and some oak. Lacking acidity.
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2017 Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light yellow. Sweet orange, light oak, very good acidity. Tasty wine but little Chablis character.
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2015 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Yellow. Ripe pear aromas. Textural. Orchard fruit, good acidity, outstanding soil, and some herbs. Moderately long finish. Underwhelming in its intensity and drive, consistent with one prior experience.
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2016 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light yellow. More floral fragrance. Medium weight, not as layered as 2015. Apple fruit, very good acidity, excellent finishing soil. I was unmoved by this.
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2017 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light yellow. Cut apple. Medium weight. Medium weight. Medium depth orchard fruit, excellent acidity, and a long soil finish. The best and the most snappy of the trio, but none of these Raveneaus really thrilled today.
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2014 Olivier Merlin Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse Les Cras
France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse
Magnum. Yellow. Wood and ripe fruit. Medium weight, buttery feel. Pear, excellent acidity, excellent length. The wood creeps up late, but I really liked this.
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2017 Olivier Merlin Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse Les Cras
France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon La Roche-Vineuse
Magnum. Spicy oak scents. Sweet, popcorn, citrus, very good acidity, quite woody. Overdone compared to the 2014.
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2015 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. Fragrant. Medium weight. Moderate oak and citrus, excellent acidity. Wood is too intrusive on the finish.
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2014 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Yellow with a green tint. High toned nose. Medium weight, less wood than the 2015. Lovely bright orange peel, round feel, moderately long finish with good soil thread. Excellent and the class of the 3 vintages.
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2013 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Yellow. Honeyed. Medium to full body. Round, a touch exotic, moderate oak, harsh finish. Disjointed.
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2019 Dominique Lafon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champgain
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Yellow. Wood and flint. Medium weight. Pineapple and citrus, light oak, excellent acidity and length. Relatively bright. Really very good.
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2017 Dominique Lafon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champgain
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. Oak, citrus, and tropical fruit aromas. Succulent feel, quite textural, excellent citrus and acidity, but a little heavy on the wood.
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2008 Dominique Lafon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champgain
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Yellow. Honeyed and nutty. Medium weight. Some acetate. Lush but odd with early oxidation and on the verge of falling apart. No.
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2019 Domaine Génot-Boulanger Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Pale. Wood and slightly tropical fruit aromas. Medium to full bodied. Citrus and tropical fruit, very good acidity, wood base, nice length. Hardly what one would seek from a top Puligny site.
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2014 Domaine Génot-Boulanger Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Yellow/greenish. Mature nutty nose. Medium weight. Ripe, sweet fruit. Light woody base. Fresher in the mouth than it smelled, good soil finish. Again, one expects more, and the incipient oxidation does not bode well.
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2016 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light yellow. Powerful aromas of grilled nuts and pear. Medium to full bodied. Round, great texture and acidity, excellent late soil, and a long, properly dry finish. Complex and truly excellent.
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2017 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Pale. Citric aromas. Medium weight, lighter than the 2016. Wonderful mouth feel. Bright fruit, full of soil, outstanding acidity, and in the end, more stony and crisp than its older sib. Outstanding and probably the best white wine I tasted today.
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2018 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Yellow. Pear and apple. Medium+ weight, more noticeable wood, and an interesting apple jelly flavor. Again, excellent texture and acidity, dry and full of stone. Another very successful wine if not as exciting as the 2017.
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2016 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Santenots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light ruby. Spicy red fruited nose. Medium to lighter weight. Licorice and dark red fruited nose, lovely brightness from excellent acidity, citrus, and earthy tannins. Outstanding, absolutely delicious Volnay which will benefit from another 5+ years of aging. An unexpected gem and much better than 7 years ago when last tasted.
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2006 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Santenots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Dull red, early browning. More upfront green aromas than the 2016. Medium weight. Brief burst of dark red fruited nose, then a ton of soil and a drying finish. Interesting and certainly very good, but fully mature and at the end of the line. Not nearly as refined as the 2016.
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1996 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Santenots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Mature tawny color. Green notes and sous bois. Light weight and earthy, but still citrus and remaining gently sweet fruit with excellent acidity and light tannins. Drier style than the contemporaneous wines. Excellent mature Burgundy with more verve and life than its 2006 counterpart.
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2020 Guilbert Gillet Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Planchots du Nord
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
Clear ruby. Slightly brambly. Medium weight. Clear, pure blue and red fruit and great salinity followed by soil and moderate tannins. Needs 5+ years. Really impressive debut vintage.
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2021 Guilbert Gillet Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Planchots du Nord
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
Light red. Fragrant green tones. Light bodied. Lovely mix of dull red fruited nose and soil through the mid-palate, excellent acidity, drying, underripe tannins. Good but not a match for the wines from the bracketing vintages.
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2022 Guilbert Gillet Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Planchots du Nord
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
Light ruby. Black cherry scents. Medium weight. Very saline. Ripe but not overly sweet red fruited nose, excellent acidity, and excellent savory soil-based finish. Just a step behind the 2020. Very, very good from this promising young producer.
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2022 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Le Corton
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Dull light red. Green notes and red fruit. Medium to light weight. Sweet red fruit, citrus, and a long vein of soil. Moderate drying but not severe tannins. Lovely, delicious, and accessible today, but I bet it will shut down.
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2019 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Le Corton
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Light ruby. Spice and red fruited nose on the nose. Medium weight, sappy. Subtly sweet dark red fruit, less soil than the 2022, outstanding depth, tannic finish that coats the gums. Great material, just needs a lot of time for more complexity and terroir to come through. Potentially the best of the 3 vintages.
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2017 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Le Corton
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Pale red. Herbal aromatics. Medium to lighter bodied. Excellent intensity of red and blue fruit and soil. Excellent acidity, earthy tannins. Subtle, long, spicy, and balanced. A gorgeous 2017.
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2018 Domaine d'Eugénie Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Spicy, earthy, rich nose. Medium+ weight, sappy. Blue and red fruit that is almost New World in its ripeness, but buffered by terrific soil. Not too large scaled. Delicious wine for intermediate enjoyment. One of the fruitiest Clos Vougeots I’ve ever had.
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2016 Domaine d'Eugénie Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Ruby. Fragrant green tones. Lighter weight than the 2018. Much more of a terroir wine with great soil/fruit balance, high acidity, and a long, moderately tannic finish. Excellent but still needs 10-12 years. Much more classic in style.
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2015 Domaine d'Eugénie Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Medium weight, most sappy of the 3 wines. Discretely ripe, sweet blueberry, smoky, saline, lots of soil, and a long, tannic finish with light oak. Tremendous salt, fruit, soil interplay. I absolutely love this wine.
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2017 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Soil aromas. Medium weight, light sap. Balanced dark red fruit, soil, and tannins. Dry finish. Needs 8+ years. Excellent.
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2016 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Very fragrant green tones. Medium bodied. Chewy. Sweeter black and blue fruit, excellent acidity, and a ton of soil with clinging, earthy, tannic finish. 10+ years. Classic soil driven Clos Vougeot with lovely flesh.
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2015 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Deep ruby. Riper candied nose. More amplitude than the other 2 vintages but still not massive. Black fruit, licorice, excellent acidity, late rush of soil, and peppery, dry tannins that speak of whole cluster treatment. Outstanding depth and in the end, all about the soil. Very different style than the flashier (but also wonderful) d’Eugénie wines from this site.
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2014 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Light ruby. Brambly, fragrant nose. Medium weight, light sappiness. Black fruit, anise, terrific soil and salinity, substantial acidity, and a dry, tannic finish. Beautiful, subtle, classic, and in need of at least another 10 years for full expression. A rare 2014 that I can believe in.
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2015 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Ruby. Rounder and riper than the 2014. Medium weight. Subtle dark red and blue fruit, still a boatload of soil, light herbal notes, and drying tannins. Serious, great potential. One of the most backward wines I tried today, but it is all there. 15+ years.
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2016 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Light ruby. Fragrant and floral. Light to medium weight, relatively supple feel. Soil laced dull red fruit, excellent acidity and salinity, citric twist, stony, and fine earthy tannins. Refined and elegant. This won’t last as long as the 2014 or 2015, but what a beauty this is! No trio of wines left more of an impression today than these Groffier Amoureuses. Killer wines, each in the style of their respective vintage.
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2017 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Clear ruby. Green tones and ripe fruit. Medium+ body, some oak, sappy. Sweet/tart dark red fruit, even more herb, excellent acidity, and long core of fine soil. Gorgeous and lively in the mouth. Gentle soil filled tannins. Swoon. A bottle last year was completely disappointing, stripped and acidic. This was more like it!
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2007 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Dull light red. Blueberry and spice aromas. Medium weight, light sappiness. Saline. Subtly sweet muddled red fruit, char, excellent acidity, a long tail of soil, citrus, and fine tannins. Absolutely lovely, elegant, and just about fully mature. Dizzying swirl of fruit, soil, and salinity.
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1996 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Light red with early browning. Prominent stalky green notes. Medium weight. Char, black fruit, lots of herb, outstanding acidity, light soil, and a dry, tannic finish. Typical hard 1996-short, tannic, and past its best. I went back and tasted a second bottle which was better, having more texture, fresher fruit, and stronger soil, but it still wasn’t great.
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2011 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Red center. Brambly and green tones. Medium weight. Saline, soil feel with light sap. Lovely blue and red fruit, slightly harsh herbal green notes, excellent acidity, and a dry, tannic finish. Excellent, and the fruit is so strong that it may yet ameliorate further.
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2015 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Light red center. Spicy aromas. Medium weight. Sappy and earthy. Supple, gently sweet fruit and citrus before a ton of soil and drying tannins take over. Long finish. Not a huge wine but huge potential given another 15 years.
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2018 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Light ruby core. Ripe dark cherry. Medium weight. Saline and light sap but not quite the texture of the others. Delicious fruit that is sweeter than the 2 preceding wines. Overall, a little simpler at this point but there is mouth coating soil and substantial tannins to resolve. Excellent potential but needs 10+ years.
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2016 Domaine Arlaud Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale ruby. Light soil and herb on the nose. Light to medium bodied. Lovely naturally sweet red fruit with some sap. Excellent acidity and moderately tannic soil finish. Excellent delicate Gevrey Premier Cru. 8+ years to full maturity.
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2015 Domaine Arlaud Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Medium red center. Ripe red berry. Medium weight, nicely sappy. Dark cherry, citrus, excellent acidity, and ripe tannins. Greater volume but less soil than the 2016. Also excellent in riper style and even more accessible now due to the seductive fruit.
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2010 Domaine Arlaud Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale, mature looking. Fragrant secondary aromas. Light body. Some sweet red fruit, spicy oak, soil and drying wood tannins arrive late. Not as much to it as the younger vintages, a bit astringent, and surprisingly advanced.
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2017 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles-St.-Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light ruby. Ripe fruit and soft green notes. Medium weight, sappy, superb feel. Blue and red fruit transitioning to soil and fine tannins. Truly excellent!
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2014 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles-St.-Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Red center. Fennel aromas. Medium to lighter weight. Tart red fruit and soil, high acidity, dry, grainy tannins, lots of grip. A difficult 2014 that is too austere for me.
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2017 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale ruby. Spicy herb scents. Medium weight, great Fourrier enveloping texture. Wonderful salinity, piquant, subtly sweet fruit, long, gentle tannic finish. I love the balance and length which make this more than approachable now.
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2018 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Ruby. Leads with herbal aromas. Medium+ body, sappier than the 2017. Beautiful ripe red and blue fruit, long soil base, fine acidity, quite tannic, and medium length. Delicious but really needs 10 years.
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2019 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Ruby. Soil and black cherry on the nose. Medium to full bodied, glycerine feel. Very deep dark red and black fruit. Round tannins, endless finish. Superb and delicious due to its balance and great material despite significant back end structure which will allow 15 or 20 more years of development. The wow wine of this great trio and gushing with the hallmark Fourrier style.
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2022 Bernard Dugat-Py Mazoyères-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light red. Soil and herb-doesn’t smell like a ripe vintage wine. Some char. Medium to light weight. Subtle, gentle wine with outstanding soil/red fruit balance, excellent lively citric acidity, and light soil based tannins. A second bottle tried later was sappier. Outstanding, elegant Gevrey Grand Cru.
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2015 Bernard Dugat-Py Mazoyères-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
Slightly deeper ruby. Riper nose that shows some oak. Medium weight, fairly sappy. Chewy dark red fruit, gentle sweetness, a good dose of soil, spice, excellent acidity, and sneaky rising tannins. Spicy, bright, already complex and even better than the 2022.
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2007 Bernard Dugat-Py Mazoyères-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light tawny color. Secondary high toned green notes. Light weight. Clearly much more of a terroir wine than the first two with faded dull red fruit, lots of soil, and ameliorated tannins. Well past peak but still drinkable.
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2018 Domaine Trapet Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Clear ruby core. Penetrating green aromas. Medium to light weight. Earthy dark fruit and blueberry with great persistence for its weight. Not at all too warm. Long soil base, excellent acidity, gentle tannins. Beautiful, lingering, and subtle.
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2012 Domaine Trapet Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Light ruby center. Cherry aromas. Bright, vibrant red fruit and menthol. Lovely soil foundation. Harmonious and delicious, long and earthy with some remaining tannic grip. Drink now with pleasure or hold for 5+ years.
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2005 Domaine Trapet Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Magnum. Ruby with early fading. A bit of funk, sous bois, and candied fruit. Medium+ weight, larger scaled than the other 2 wines. Slightly lush, ripe dark fruit and citrus followed by a ton of earth and still grippy tannins. Round, lively, and complex. Maturing but still with further outstanding years ahead. These 3 Trapet wines were an absolute joy today.
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2015 Hospices de Beaune Mazis-Chambertin Cuvée Madeleine Collignon
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Ruby. Ripe fruit, warm spices. Medium+ weight, nicely sappy. Spicy red/blue fruit. Lovely length and feel. Not terribly detailed but excellent and relatively ready.
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2014 Hospices de Beaune Mazis-Chambertin Cuvée Madeleine Collignon
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light red. Herbal nose. Light. Spicy, brambly red fruit with a citric twist. Peppery finish but not that tannic. Very good, typical 2014.
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2012 Hospices de Beaune Mazis-Chambertin Cuvée Madeleine Collignon
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Ruby core. Savory red fruit nose. Medium weight. Sweet, sappy red fruit, citrus, light soil and tannin. Pretty much mature. Tasty mouthful but very simple and easy for a Grand Cru wine.
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