Rome x2 & Puglia + Matera

Tasted Friday, March 27, 2026 - Monday, April 6, 2026 by Amatzen with 42 views

Introduction

L'Italia. You never disappoint.
First time in Puglia & Basilicata. Beautiful regions with rich traditions, food and culture wise. Lecce has got such deep history, dating back to the Mesopotamian era. Monopoli, Ostuni, Alberobello and Polignano a Mare are all stunning. Unfortunately, torrential rain marred the days spent there, so will have to revisit. Bari is a raw but beautiful harbor city with a very cozy Vecchia part of town.
Matera is captivating in ways undescribable. The shame of Italy and now famous all over the world. If you don't know the history behind this true capital of Basilicata, look it up - you will not be disappointed. And if you choose to visit, try to book a tour with Alessio Leardi. I am not one for guided tours, but he tells Matera's story in a way that has to be heard.

Flight 1 - Day 1 & 2 - Rome (2 Notes)

Lunch at Matricianella

  • 2022 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 90 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

    (3/27/2026)

    Bright ruby red, sour red cherry, plum, cranberry, sweet spice. Grippy tannins, acidic from pour. At the end of a 2 hour lunch this was confidently better, more accessible and enjoyable all round. First year for the new owners seems to bode well.
    Enjoyed at Matricianella in Rome

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  • 2023 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé 95 Points

    Italy, Sicily, Passito di Pantelleria

    (3/27/2026)

    So good. Deep, deep apricot, amber, caramel, dried fig, honeycomb, lemon peel, peach. Hedonistic, golden mouthful. So rich and tart, but still fresh and vibrant at the same time. Very young of course, therefore not as complex as older vintages, will undoubtedly become even better with age.
    Enjoyed at Matricianella in Rome

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Flight 2 (1 Note)

Pre-dinner at Vinoteca 900

  • 2022 Lodali Barolo Bricco Ambrogio 91 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (3/27/2026)

    Bright ruby red, cherry, crushed river rock, rose petal and wild flowers. Medium acidity, bottle had probably been open a while which had softened the tannins and flattened it out a bit
    Enjoyed at Vinoteca 900 in Rome

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Flight 3 (2 Notes)

Dinner at Il Convivio Troiani

  • 2008 Tua Rita Giusto di Notri Toscana IGT 95 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

    (3/27/2026)

    This is very light red compared to the 2018 & 2019 vintages that I have had in the last year. Out of the glass comes boysenberry, blackberry, earthy minerality, creosote, pipe tobacco, black pepper, peat, oak spice and wild game. This is very robust. Acidity/tannins became more well integrated during the 3 hours of drinking. Magnificent complexity & intensity across the palate and on the nose. This is drinking very young and I would agree with previous TN's that this most likely has more good years ahead of it than behind it.
    Enjoyed at Il Convivio Troiani in Rome

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  • 2013 Castello della Sala (Antinori) Umbria Muffato della Sala 92 Points

    Italy, Umbria

    (3/27/2026)

    Jammy apricot, honeycomb, peach, orange peel, citrus. Produced from Antinori's only Umbrian estate. Golden in color, very good but not as deep and hedonistic as Donnafugata's Ben Ryé enjoyed earlier in the day
    Enjoyed at Il Convivio Troiani in Rome

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Flight 4 (1 Note)

Lunch at Checchino Dal 1887

  • 2022 Antinori Chianti Classico Marchese Antinori Riserva Tenuta Tignanello 91 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

    (3/28/2026)

    Ruby red, sour cherry, limestone dust, peony, terra cotta. Quite sharp and acidic from pour, softened over the course of a 2 hour lunch. 2021 is obviusly a better vintage, but I still think this represents very good CC value.
    Enjoyed from a 375ml bottle at Checchino Dal 1887 in Rome

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Flight 5 (2 Notes)

Dinner at Ad Hoc

  • 2019 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (3/28/2026)

    Decanted after tasting, this baby was tight. Great depth and complexity on the nose. Red cherry, crushed river rock, limestone dust, kumquat, acerola. Tons of graphite and lead pencil. Great balance, superior to the Bussia and probably also Cannubi. High acidity, almost chewy in texture. Plenty of runway and upside here
    Enjoyed at Ad Hoc in Rome

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  • 2023 Castello della Sala (Antinori) Umbria Muffato della Sala 93 Points

    Italy, Umbria

    (3/28/2026)

    A tad fresher and more appealing than the 2013 tried the day before. Could be bottle variation, or maybe this just peaks before year 13. Either way, very good.
    Enjoyed at Ad Hoc in Rome

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Flight 6 - Day 3 & 4 - Lecce (1 Note)

Pre-dinner at Doppiozero

Flight 7 (1 Note)

Dinner at Duo

  • 2021 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sorì Ginestra 95 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (3/29/2026)

    Intoxicating nose. Decanted upon pour. This is so fresh. Velvety mouthful with insane concentration and complexity. A cornucopia of wild game, fresh herbs, wild flowers, rose petals, terra cotta, dried meat, soft raisin, prune, pipe tobacco, cigar, crushed river rock. This alternates each mouthful between red, bright, acidic, and darker, complex fruits. Ethereal and feminine. Drinking like a bottle at peak after 15+ years, but still so incredibly vibrant. Youthful but with aged complexity, if that makes sense. Hedonistic, bold and powerful Fantino this.
    Enjoyed at Duo in Lecce

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Flight 8 (1 Note)

Lunch at Atenze

  • 2019 Cantine Leuci Idume 87 Points

    Italy, Puglia, Salice Salentino

    (3/30/2026)

    Sweet, blackcurrant with a dry and spicy finish. Went well with a cut of medium-rare Podolica cattle at Atenze in Lecce

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Flight 9 (1 Note)

Pre-dinner at Gusto Liberrima

Flight 10 (1 Note)

Dinner at Primo

  • 2021 Elio Altare Barolo Arborina 95 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (3/30/2026)

    This wasn't quite as appealing on the nose from the outset as the 2021 Conterno Fantino Sori Ginestra from the night before. But it opened up beautifully. A perfect example of La Morra with violet notes, rose petals, acerola, tar, a hint of vanilla and just a little bit of cedar spice, which didn't hurt. Pipe tobacco became evident further into drinking. This may be more age-worthy than the Sori Ginestra, but still excellent right now. Same score for the two.
    Enjoyed at Primo in Lecce

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Flight 11 (1 Note)

Lunch at La Bocca

  • 2017 Francesco Radino Aglianico del Vulture Arcidiaconata 88 Points

    Italy, Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture

    (3/31/2026)

    Another local offering. Puglia is a wonderful region, but I simply do not enjoy their Primitivos, which they are very proud of. And for my money, Susumaniello should be a blending grape as it is not strong enough to form the base itself. Aglianico it is then. This was quite punchy. Acidic, rusty tannins with a bit of spice and blackcurrant and plum on the palate. Surprisingly well matched with some Ricci di mare tagliatelle at La Bocca in Lecce

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Flight 12 - Day 5 & 6 - Monopoli/Ostuni (1 Note)

Dinner at Veritas Enoteca

  • 2022 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove 91 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

    (3/31/2026)

    Deep opaque in the glass. Very concentrated and youthful, so not fooling anyone. Still quite a lot of noticeable oak, which I think will be a problem for me with this in younger vintages. Creme de cassis, blackberry, cedar spice. A bit of chocolate and coffee on the aftertaste, with smoke developing. HOLD
    Enjoyed at Veritas Enoteca in Monopoli

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Flight 13 (1 Note)

Lunch at Osteria Ricanatti

  • 2011 Taurino A64 Cosimo Taurino Salento IGT 88 Points

    Italy, Puglia, Salento IGT

    (4/1/2026)

    No aglianico by the glass, so went with this Negroamaro instead. Quite a pleasant surprise. This was carrying its age well, with integrated tannins and a good profile. However, I don't know how good this has been during various parts of its trajectory and if my score represents a fair peak for this. At this stage, the fruit was quite muted and the complexity not really there, but still enjoyable.
    Drank at Osteria Ricanatti in Ostuni

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Flight 14 (1 Note)

Dinner at Antica Posta

  • 2021 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (4/1/2026)

    Very classical fresh Barolo. Red cherry, rose petals, tar, dried herbs and peony. Quite light in style and not amazing depth, but it does the job. Very precise in style and great structure which helps it.
    Enjoyed at Antica Posta in Monopoli

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Flight 15 - Day 6 & 7 - Matera (1 Note)

Pre-dinner at Retrobottega

Flight 16 (1 Note)

Dinner at Artema

  • 2015 Renieri Brunello di Montalcino 92 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    (4/2/2026)

    As many others, I must admit to being perplexed by the 100 point rating of this one. It is by no means a poor wine. It's a solid Brunello, which in my case would have benefitted from a longer decant as the heat of the 2015 vintage definitely showed (a very high temperature at time of serving did not help - how it has become acceptable to serve wine at 25c at fine dining establishments I will never understand). However, there is nothing in this that shows any hint towards perfection. But as other reviewers have said, it should not be downrated because of that. But take this for what it is, which is a good Brunello with dried rose petal, cherry, hint of vanilla and quite rustic and dry tannins. I would recommend a long decant.
    Enjoyed at Artema in Matera

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Flight 17 (1 Note)

Lunch at Regia Corte - L’eccellenza del Territorio

  • 2021 Battifarano Basilicata Toccaculo 89 Points

    Italy, Basilicata

    (4/3/2026)

    Probably the best Aglianico tasted during the trip, or at least top 2. This was really good from the outset, with rustic, savory profile showing black cherry, leather, plum and a hint of white pepper.
    Enjoyed at Regia Corte - L’eccellenza del Territorio in Matera

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Flight 18 - Day 7 & 8 - Bari (1 Note)

Pre-dinner at Enoteca del Centro

  • 2021 Basilisco Aglianico del Vulture Teodosio 88 Points

    Italy, Basilicata, Aglianico del Vulture

    (4/3/2026)

    Another quintessential Aglianico showing. Blackcurrant, leather, a bit of smoke and quite rustic, which seems to be the case across the board with Aglianico
    Enjoyed at Enoteca del Centro in Bari

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Flight 19 (1 Note)

Dinner at Radicale

  • 2021 Donnafugata Mille e una notte 92 Points

    Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane

    (4/3/2026)

    Very plush on the palate, but a bit dumb on the nose. Defintely needs air or time, as this vastly improved during the course of dinner. Black cherry, balsamic vinegar, with lingering earth and white pepperish finish. This wine has great structure and complexity across vintages, which makes it one of my Sicilian favorites.
    Enjoyed at Radicale in Bari

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Flight 20 (1 Note)

Lunch at Casa Tiberino 1888

Flight 21 (1 Note)

Dinner at La Bul

  • 2021 Fratelli Barale Barolo 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (4/4/2026)

    Agree with the previous TN. Good entry-level Barolo, which does not dazzle nor disappoint.
    Enjoyed at La Bul in Bari

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Flight 22 - Day 9 & 10 - Rome (1 Note)

Lunch at Trattoria Morgana

  • 2022 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia 96 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore

    (4/5/2026)

    Wow. This oozes class and sexiness. Such depth, structure, complexion and sheer hedonism. So many layers and elements to unravel here. Very approachable already. Axel Heinz's swan song La Determinazione shows how the top Tuscan houses deal with and overcome adversity vintages. Velvety, kaleidoscopic mouthful of blackberry, plum, earthy gravel, lead pencil ink, and a hint of vanilla. This stays with you for a good 45 sec. I could even taste this 30 mins after leaving the restaurant. I could drink this every day and be content as can be.
    Enjoyed at Trattoria Morgana in Rome, which incredibly had this by the glass (thank you Anthony Bourdain). If you like your Quinto quarto kitchen, they have some amazing artichokes with stuffed lamb offal. Also, their pappardelle with ragu, as Nonna used to make it, is excellent

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Flight 23 (1 Note)

Dinner at La Ciambella

  • 2020 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    (4/5/2026)

    Dark ruby with nearly no bricking. Dark cherry, plum, five-spice, tar, dried leather, roasted meat, gravel and molasses. Quite an incredible mouthful. Silky, velvety tannins very well integrated. Wonderful fruit complexion.
    Enjoyed at La Ciambella in Rome

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Flight 24 (1 Note)

Lunch at Luciana

  • 2021 Monchiero Barolo del comune di La Morra 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (4/6/2026)

    Another incredible offering by the glass. This simply does not exist in Northern Europe. This was very light red in color straight out of the bottle and singing. Classic La Morra feminism. Intense perfume of rose petal, violet, lavender, wild herb, white tea, iron-laced earth, and some tangerine rind. So elegant and velvety. One takeaway from drinking quite a bit of La Morra this week is that they do indeed seem very approachable in their youth. Note to self: buy more and plenty
    Enjoyed at Luciano in Rome

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Closing

A lot of food and a lot of wine. Unexpectedly, two standouts came in the last two days offered by the glass at some great establishments in Rome. The Ornellaia is a clear standout. Apart from that, the Elio Altare Arborini and Conterno Fantino Sorí Ginestra were outstanding as well. 2021 Barolo, in general, is on fire right now. There also seems to be good value in Aglianico, which became my preferred Puglian grape throughout the trip.

'Build yourself a cellar: wide, spacious, with generous ventilation, adorn it with many lovely bottles, some upright, others lying down, to be admired with a friendly eye in the evenings of Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter, smiling at the thought of that man without songs and music, without women and wine, who is fated to live about ten years longer than you' - Giacomo Bologna

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