Whole-Cluster Wizards and a Modern Paulée

There is something inherently vertical about Domaine Dujac—and I don’t just mean the vintages. It’s that "stem-driven lift" that sends the aromatics straight to the ceiling. We gathered at The Modern for a deep dive into the Seysses family’s work in Gevrey, specifically their unique blend of Charmes and Mazoyères. Between the impeccable glassware and the precision of the kitchen, it felt like a true Paulée, minus the flight to Beaune.

The white flight was a total curveball. The 2014 Folatières performed a high-wire act that had the table questioning if we were actually drinking Leflaive with a Roulot reduction. But the heart of the night was the red vertical. From the feral, "wild" 2006 to the architectural 2012, it was a masterclass in how whole-cluster fermentation translates terroir through the lens of a specific growing season. We capped it all off with an 1983 Raymond-Lafon that proved Sauternes doesn't need a "First Growth" label to be world-class.

A study in tension and high-altitude limestone. While Dujac is the undisputed king of Morey-Saint-Denis reds, their white program—specifically from the rocky, windswept parcels of Puligny—offers a masterclass in crystalline precision.

• 2014 Domaine Dujac Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Total shocker of a wine. I’ve had my share of Dujac whites, but this was firing on all cylinders. It carries that regal, expansive fruit profile you’d expect from Leflaive, but then hits you with this flinty, matchstick reduction that screams Roulot. Intense mineral drive, lemon curd, and a salty, high-tension finish. A tremendous effort that proves the Seysses family are just as dangerous with Chardonnay as they are with Pinot.

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The core of the evening. This flight explored three distinct climatic expressions of the Gevrey plateau. We looked at the contrast between "cool" classicism, "solar" hedonism, and the concentrated, low-yield intensity of the early 2010s.

• 2006 Domaine Dujac Charmes-Chambertin 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  The "wild child" of the flight and a total throwback to a cooler Burgundian era. When we first popped the cork, the tannins were surprisingly vocal—quite alive and dusty—reminding us that '06 is a vintage that demands patience. However, as the night progressed, they pulled a disappearing act, melting away to reveal a wonderfully feral, "sauvage" edge of forest floor, dried roses, and smoked meats. While some at the table preferred the cleaner, more athletic lines of the younger vintages, I was floored by the soulful, tertiary character here. By the final glass, it had settled into a silky, earthy core. It’s sitting at an absolute peak right now.

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• 2009 Domaine Dujac Charmes-Chambertin 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  A dense, hedonistic powerhouse. You can feel the "solar" warmth of the vintage here—much higher extract and a darker fruit profile (black cherry, plum) than the '06 or '12. It’s plush and expansive on the palate, but those signature Dujac stems keep it from feeling heavy. This is a "long-game" wine; it’s delicious now but clearly has another 15-20 years of evolution ahead.

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• 2012 Domaine Dujac Charmes-Chambertin 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  The consensus favorite for those seeking "Dujac elegance." This was all about precision and transparency. It felt chiseled and high-toned compared to the '09, with a floral perfume (peonies and sandalwood) that was intoxicating. The balance is impeccable—it’s energetic, focused, and finishes with a persistent red-fruit snap. Sophistication in a glass.

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The evening’s final act. A move from the limestone slopes of the Côte d'Or to the botrytis-rich sands of Sauternes, shifting the palate from savory tension to honeyed opulence.

• 1983 Château Raymond-Lafon 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  If you didn't see the label, you'd swear this was from the neighbor across the fence (Yquem). Deep gold in color, but the palate was a fascinating surprise—it felt remarkably lean for a '83, trading syrupy weight for a sophisticated, savory edge. There was a distinct saltiness to it that cut through the dried apricot and orange marmalade notes, lending a refreshing mineral snap to the finish. Elegant, precise, and a perfect way to close the night without fatigue.

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Last night reaffirmed why Dujac remains a cornerstone for any serious Burgundy collector. The ability to maintain a house style—that unmistakable stem-induced spice—while allowing the vastly different personalities of 2006, 2009, and 2012 to shine through is a rare feat.

Beyond the wine, the evening was a reminder that the best bottles are simply catalysts for great conversation. Between the impeccable service at The Modern and a lineup that didn't have a single "off" note, this was one for the books. We walked away with a newfound appreciation for the 2012s and a reminder to never sleep on Dujac’s whites. Until the next cork pulls...