Chardonnay and Chicken

This evening I was in the mood for some Chardonnay, and I’ve got numerous bottles that I’ve yet to try. So I selected five (because Coravin), and I wanted to do more (because anything worth doing is worth overdoing)—but discretion being the better part of valor…

Two of these wines were Old World, and the other three New. One of them was a “ringer”—an inexpensive QPR wine snuck into the mix. I let the wine air in their respective glasses for 15-20 minutes before dinner; jotted a couple of quick notes on each; enjoyed them with dinner; and then completed more detailed reviews a couple hours after opening.

• 2022 Faiveley Chardonnay Bourgogne 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Stabbed with the Coravin. Reluctant nose with floral, saline, chalk, and very light citrus notes. Light on its feet, with oyster shell—how these shells made their way to Burgundy is another topic—along with a gentle viscosity and a touch of lemon, with a chalky, minerally finish.
  
  The most Old-World of the bunch (there was only one other one). A contemplative wine, because Faiveley. What’s going on here? Tasted blind, I might have been less charitable. Not that there’s anything bad: it’s just “meh” to the nth power (you pick the n). Despite the less-than-stellar descriptors, one can coax some complexity. Objectively, however, not a good value (I paid just under $29, and wine-searcher shows $35); you’re paying up for the Faiveley name.
  
  Nothing off-putting, and no hard edges; but restraint plays best at the top of the lineup rather than the bottom. #4 of 5 in tonight’s tasting.
  
  Paired well with homemade chicken piccata.
  
  13% ABV.

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• 2023 Domaine Lafage Chardonnay Novellum 89 Points

  France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes

  PnP. Chalk, saline, green apple, green banana, a whiff of papaya, and lemon on the nose, along with a floral note (gardenia?). A green banana redux on the finish, though not quite as much banana overall as in previous notes.
  
  The Novellum didn't show as well against these other Chardonnays; it lacks the focus and purity of fruit among some of the other wines here. Earlier in the evening, this would’ve been in the middle of the pack; but by the end, the others had evolved more. It remains a good QPR wine (I paid $15). #5 of 5.
  
  Nice accompaniment to homemade chicken piccata.
  
  13% ABV.

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• 2022 Hartford / Hartford Court Chardonnay Seascape Vineyard 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Darkest in color of the group—a rich gold. Initially toasted oak was predominant, with some dried lemon. I’m a long-time consumer of Hartford Court wines. At first I was like, “what the hell is this?!” But with air it kept improving. Later I said to myself “it’s pretty good, but this tastes like an overpriced Cali Chardonnay.” Three-plus hours later I was saying “this tastes like single-vineyard Kistler!” (which I love).
  
  After 3 hours: pineapple upside-down cake, grilled peaches, banana. Pure, focused, and intense lemon on the back end—like syrupy lemon sorbet, but in a good way—leading to a lengthy finish with candied lemon surrounded by some saline and chalk.
  
  In all my years tasting wine, I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a wine that evolved more over the course of an evening. At the very beginning, #5 of 5. By the end of the night, #2 of 5, barely eclipsed by #1.
  
  14.1% ABV.

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• 2023 Rhys Chardonnay Anderson Valley 90 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Stabbed with the Coravin. Lightest in color of the group, akin to a Sauvignon Blanc. Initially, not a lot of fireworks on the nose, with faint notes of orange blossoms and citrus; but with a couple hours of air, a fuse is lit on the palate, and the finish is all bottle rockets and Roman candles. The nose evolves to show peaches and lemon; the peaches are more pronounced on the finish.
  
  I realize the impertinence of the following metaphor as I write it, but I’ll wax apophatic and say: this drinks like a clear soda that has a lot of flavor (with air). No disrespect. #3 of 5 in tonight’s tasting, after initially competing for the caboose.
  
  12.9% ABV.

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• 2023 Rhys Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains 93 Points

  USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

  Stabbed with the Coravin. Very faint frizzante on the tongue immediately after opening, but it cleared with air. Focused: lemon, apple, pear, a touch of guava. Nice viscosity, bright acidity, and a laser beam of fruit on the back end.
  
  And then with time, it’s like Tattoo shouting to Mr. Roarke: “De air! De air!” Yes, de air. De air to Rhys is twin turbos on a 911. Pavarotti’s “Vincerò!” at the end of “Nessun Dorma.” Psilocybin on the tongue. Lighter fluid on a fire. Auto-tune on a pop song. YMMV.
  
  This wine is in a league of its own in tonight’s lineup. Amazing balance between fruit and acid and alcohol. At $50 from the Rhys list (I’ve seen it cheaper on line), it’s a great value. #1 of 5 in tonight’s tasting. And it too paired well with homemade chicken piccata.
  
  13.1 ABV.

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The most interesting takeaway this evening was watching how much wines can evolve over the course of an evening. We all know this and have experienced it; but tonight it was particularly acute. I’ve always advocated context—tasting a wine by itself (even with food) lacks important context—but tasting multiple wines together, AND letting them evolve, is enlightening.

The “ringer”—the Domaine Lafage Novellum—held its own. Each of the wines paired well with homemade Chicken Piccata. The “base” Rhys Santa Cruz Mountains continues to impress, in both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. My experience with the Anderson Valley bottling with both grapes hasn’t gone quite as well, though this one, like the others, did improve with air.

#1: 2023 Rhys Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains
#2: 2022 Hartford / Hartford Court Chardonnay Seascape Vineyard
#3: 2023 Rhys Chardonnay Anderson Valley
#4: 2022 Faiveley Chardonnay Bourgogne Blanc
#5: 2023 Domaine Lafage Chardonnay Novellum