Dinner at Brodie's part deux

Brodie and Raz once again hosted us after our South Island trip for a wonderful dinner before we headed back to Singapore. They cooked up a feast of beef and prawn tacos with a horizontal of Fonsalettes that was an absolute treat.

• 2012 Marguet Sapience 93 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  50% Chardonnay, 25% Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir. Disgorged Apr 2022, zero dosage. A champagne with contrasting flavours that gave good complexity. lightly oxidative yet taut. Clean quince and orchard fruit that was both open-knit and taut at the same time, some oxidative notes but also had a slightly austere profile. Enjoyable in an intellectual way.

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• 2014 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Blanc Château de Fonsalette Reserve 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

  Striking petroleum note that made guess Riesling (I wondered if I was such a terrible taster but glad to see the previous note had the same impression). Waxy texture with bright acidity from the cooler vintage, got to Rhone white on second try but thought Chave. Lovely finesse to the wine without any heaviness or excess alcohol, similar to the reds this also had a persistent finish.

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• 2014 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Reserve 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

  Opened 24 hours earlier by the host. Easy guess as Rayas family - sweet kirsch, intense and layered perfumed nose of wild strawberries. I thought Pignan because my previous impressions of Fonsalette were darker and more structured, but Brodie said the cool vintage gave the wine a fresher profile. Ripe, seductive fruit, ethereal texture but still with immense concentration, I initially preferred the Syrah but this got better and better with air. My experience with Rayas family wines have been variable but this knocked it out of the park.

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• 2014 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Cuvée Syrah 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

  Opened 24 hours earlier by the host. Blinded, I was so confident that this was northern Rhone with the savoury olive notes, guessed Gonon because very few producers can achieve such elegance and lifted aromatics while retaining the Syrah identity. A garrigue note and some sweetness developed with air to converge with the normal Fonsalette alongside, both were equally compelling with a dreamy finish.

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