Wine lunch at Enomania

Enomania, Copenhagen
Tasted Friday, April 17, 2026 by bagelcat with 23 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

2020 Zind-Humbrecht Clos Windsbuhl 88 Points

France, Vin de France

Zind-Humbrecht's Chardonnay Clos Windsbuhl is a small-production bottling from the Clos Windsbuhl lieu-dit in Hunawihr - vinified separately in small casks and declassified to Vin de France, since Chardonnay is not permitted in AOC Alsace still wines. The Muschelkalk limestone soil of the site dominates the wine's character; strict at first approach, it gradually becomes broader and more powerful, with the acidity and structure as its defining traits rather than the grape variety itself.

Served blind, which made for a genuinely perplexing glass. Slight reduction on opening, then a nose that resisted easy categorisation - Chardonnay body and stone fruit weight, but with lower acidity than expected, and aromatics that kept suggesting Pinot Blanc or Gewurztraminer territory. The address proved elusive precisely because Windsbuhl Chardonnay doesn't behave like a textbook example of anything - the limestone dominance mutes the varietal signal and imposes its own austere mineral register.

Interesting rather than immediately generous. Better company with food than in a comparative lineup like the one we had, and likely better company in a few years' time than it was on the night.

Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Flight 2 (2 Notes)

1993 Maison Bertrand Ambroise Corton-Le Rognet 93 Points

France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

Maison Bertrand Ambroise produced this Corton-Le Rognet from one of the Corton hill's most powerful and structured grand cru lieux-dits - a site that tends toward density and longevity even in lighter vintages. Purchased as a Catawiki gamble and opened at Enomania Copenhagen alongside a serious lineup, decanted and cooled by the restaurant staff.

Opened immediately on arrival to check its status: energetic, slightly muted, but clearly alive - red fruit still present alongside the expected signs of age. A promising start. By the time it was served blind, it had retracted into something darker and more compact - deep in colour, brooding on the nose, with spice, dried flowers, forest floor and leather dominating. The table struggled to place the address; I was briefly convinced it might be Bordeaux (even though this was my own bottle ..). High quality and exceptional condition were the points of consensus.

On the palate, fuller-bodied than the nose suggested, with tannins still present and punchy - remarkable at 32 years old. Well-balanced acidity, dried red fruit, earth and leather carrying through from the nose. Held its shape throughout a long, wine-heavy lunch without flagging.

The finish leaned toward forest floor, earth and acidity rather than fruit - long and composed. For a 1993 - not a great Burgundy vintage - this is a significant over-delivery. At peak or just past it, but for an aged Burgundy lover this is exactly the kind of gamble that pays off. A treat.

Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No
2008 Domaine Bruno Clavelier Corton-Rognet Vieilles Vignes 93 Points

France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

Domaine Bruno Clavelier's Corton-Rognet Vieilles Vignes comes from old-vine parcels on the Corton hill, vinified in the traditional Burgundian manner with whole-cluster inclusion and aged in a proportion of new oak - a producer known for structured, age-worthy wines that sit firmly in the classic rather than modern camp. Opened blind as a follow-up to an Ambroise 1993 from the same climat, it landed the table squarely in Italy, with most guessing somewhere between 2014 and 2016.

The contrast with the Ambroise was immediate and instructive. Where the 1993 had retreated into brooding earth and spice, the 2008 led with freshness - red fruit, spice, and earthy undertones present but clearly secondary to primary fruit. Deep in colour, more so than the Ambroise, and with an aromatic profile that, without the Pinot Noir frame of reference, read as altogether more southern and dense.

On the palate, powerful and structured, with tannins that are chewy yet smooth - present enough to signal this is only just entering its window, refined enough to suggest serious aging potential ahead. The depth here is more Nebbiolo than Pinot to the uninitiated, but the florality that would confirm Barolo is absent. Well-balanced acidity and a long, composed finish.

At 17 years old this feels like the opening chapter. Would love to try this again in five AND ten years' time.

Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Flight 3 (1 Note)

1994 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 90 Points

France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

Ducru-Beaucaillou is one of Saint-Julien's most consistent second growths - a "Super Second" in the Médoc hierarchy, planted predominantly to Cabernet Sauvignon on the deep gravel beds that give the estate its name. The 1994 is worth contextualising: the estate had a difficult run through the late 1980s due to TCA contamination, but the problem was fully resolved by 1993-94, and contemporary notes described the 1994 as an exceptional effort for the vintage rather than a modest one. Served blind at 30 years old, the address was unmistakable - cedar, pencil shavings, dried herb, faded red fruit.

Impressively preserved for its age, with no sign of fatigue. The nose delivered genuine pleasure: composed, classical, and still carrying some perfume. The palate was where it showed its limits - correct and well-structured but ultimately a little one-dimensional, lacking the mid-palate generosity of a warmer vintage. Not a wine that has become more interesting with time, but one that has aged with real dignity - a lovely experience nonetheless.

The finish leaned toward dried fruit and cedar rather than primary fruit - long enough, and composed to the end.

Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

Flight 4 (1 Note)

2018 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 96 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Mascarello's Monprivato is one of Barolo's most celebrated single vineyards - a 6.7-hectare monopole in Castiglione Falletto worked by the family since 1904, vinified in the traditional long-maceration style.

The 2018 was to me a deceptive bottle: served blind, the approach is almost Burgundian - beautiful translucent ruby, intense florality, a perfumed elegance that could briefly send you toward Pinot Noir. But the structure beneath is unmistakably Nebbiolo, with firm, fine-grained tannins and a serious backbone that signals this needs time. Guessed 2019 Barolo, but 2018 shows warmer-vintage generosity without losing the variety's tension.

A stunning bottle at what is clearly an early stage of its trajectory.

Post a Comment / 2 people found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

Flight 5 (1 Note)

2018 Fattoria Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 95 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

Poggio di Sotto - now under the ownership of ColleMassari but still farming organically in the southeast corner of Montalcino - produces one of the most precise, site-expressive Brunellos made.

The 2018 had all the hallmarks: deep, saturated colour, a concentrated nose of dark cherry, dried rose, tobacco and iron, and a palate that is young but already open for business. The length here is exceptional - not just long but layered, with wave after wave of fruit and structure. 2018 is a warm vintage in Montalcino but Poggio di Sotto's elevation and southeast exposure kept the freshness intact - and an ok alcohol-level of 14%. A wine that will clearly repay another decade of patience but isn't demanding it yet.

Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

Flight 6 (1 Note)

2011 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve 96 Points

France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Château Rayas is unlike anything else in Châteauneuf-du-Pape - 100% Grenache from old vines on sandy soils in a cooler, north-facing site, producing wines of Burgundian delicacy and extraordinary aging potential.

This was a stunning bottle. Intensely complex on the nose - red cherry, garrigue, orange peel, dried flowers and something almost Pinot-like in its translucency - with a vibrancy that made it feel a decade younger than it is. The palate had extraordinary length, wave after wave, and a silky texture that showed no sign of tiring.

Served blind, managed to guess the producer; the vintage was harder - 2011 in the southern Rhône was heterogeneous, and Rayas' cool site clearly navigated it better than most. One of the most memorable bottles of the evening, and according to a co-taster this was the "best bottle [he's] had in his life".

Read 2 Comments / Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

Flight 7 (1 Note)

2005 Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Aÿ Vauzelle Terme 93 Points

France, Champagne

Jacquesson's Aÿ Vauzelle Terme is a single-vineyard, single-vintage blanc de noirs from Grand Cru Aÿ - Pinot Noir vines planted in 1980 on calcareous soil, vinified and aged in oak on the lees, unfiltered, with minimal dosage.

This 2005 was disgorged in February 2015, giving it a decade on cork before we opened it. The result is a wine of real substance: good mousse and energy, with the brioche and oxidative complexity that bottle age brings to serious Champagne, layered over the vineyard's chalky, red-fruited core. It served beautifully as a palate cleanser after the Barolo and Brunello, which is perhaps an unusual role for a wine of this pedigree - but it carried itself with ease. Not a house I've historically found consistently exciting, but this specific wine made a strong case.

Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Flight 8 (1 Note)

2023 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet

France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

NR.

Etienne Sauzet is one of Puligny-Montrachet's most reliable names, known for precise, mineral-driven Chardonnay across a range of village and premier cru bottlings. The 2023 village wine is a difficult thing to assess at this stage of the evening and of the wine's life - young, tight, and arriving after Rayas, Monprivato, and Poggio di Sotto. It showed the hallmarks of the appellation: white flower, citrus, and a chalky underpinning - but the acidity felt prominent without resolution and the mid-palate hadn't filled in yet. 2023 in Burgundy is a genuinely promising vintage that needs time, and this wine simply wasn't in the right context to show well.

No faults; wrong moment.

Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No