Japanese French

naoto.K is an intimate eight-seat counter French restaurant in Nishikicho, Tokyo, created by veteran chef Naoto Kishimoto after his long-running Michelin-starred restaurant L’Embellir. It represents Kishimoto’s more personal, pared-back vision of Japanese-French cuisine: seasonal Japanese ingredients, artisanal technique, and dishes served directly from the open kitchen at the precise moment they are meant to be eaten. The restaurant’s theme is often described through “shun” — both seasonality and the fleeting instant when an ingredient is at its best — making naoto.K feel less like formal grand French dining and more like a focused, chef-led counter experience.

Very hard to get wines and this restaurant has a whole page dedicated to Kei Shiogai. How did you get these wines tany.tatsu? Served by the talented Tatsuhiko Taniguchi @tany.tatsu who also helps at abysse.

• 2020 Kei Shiogai Bourgogne Blanc Les Pellans 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  Lemon, cream, yeast, butter. Very nice fruit and not oaky. @naoto.K

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• 2020 Kei Shiogai Pommard 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard

  Strawberry, forest floor, minerals, gojiberry, chestnut @naoto.K

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• 2021 Carte Blanche Chardonnay UV 93 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  14.2% ABV. Haut brion family. Oak, butter, asian pear, tangerine, cream. Light in fruit but very textured

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• 2017 Cantzheim Saarburger Fuchs Riesling Auslese 91 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

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• 2004 Domaine Economou Antigone 94 Points

  Greece, Crete, Sitia

  Margaux winemaker. Slightly sweet but very balanced and complex. More red fruit dominated. Violet, raisin, strawberry, cedar, dried herbs

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