New label. A wine from Bairrada apparently, from Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Baga and Jaen. Not to be confused with the Rosado Reservado. Salmon colour with orange and golden reflections; the nose is fresh and minerally, and displays considerable wood influence without being oxidative, with some strawberry and grapefruit behind; fresh and lively palate with crisp acidity, lean and lithe (11.5% ABV), attractive savouriness and spice from the wood, some juicy stone fruit and watermelon, clear and transparent expression, very subtle bitters; complete finish, very good length. A distinctive style, I like it a lot.
A project of Dimitri Vetois and Marion Valverde, based in Ménetru-le-Vignoble in Château-Chalon. Electric young-vine Chardonnay from a south-facing parcel, somewhat reminiscent of the style of JF Ganevat, but with a much shorter élevage (one year in barrel, nine months in vat) and consequently more primary fruit (especially in this hot vintage), expressive of its grey marl terroir, intense and concentrated, borderline tropical on the nose, almost but not quite overpowering on the palate, oily texture (with only 12.5% ABV!) balanced by salty minerality, tightly wound but relaxed, lemony acidity, hint of earth, full-on mango on the finish, excellent resonance and length. Exceptional wine, but I have no doubt that it will divide opinion. I’m actually on the fence myself, but a high score is clearly warranted.
Gorgeous young Barbera, supple and juicy, nice hint of spice, fresh and energetic, tightly wound but with a wealth of fruit, firmly structured with bright acidity and surprisingly grippy, sandy tannins, delightful hints of tar and cream, and floral lift on the finish. Pure, precise, elegant, focused, persistent. Textbook stuff. Will age well.
2021 Alexandre d'Almeida Buçaco Rosado 92 Points
Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada
New label. A wine from Bairrada apparently, from Aragonez, Touriga Nacional, Baga and Jaen. Not to be confused with the Rosado Reservado. Salmon colour with orange and golden reflections; the nose is fresh and minerally, and displays considerable wood influence without being oxidative, with some strawberry and grapefruit behind; fresh and lively palate with crisp acidity, lean and lithe (11.5% ABV), attractive savouriness and spice from the wood, some juicy stone fruit and watermelon, clear and transparent expression, very subtle bitters; complete finish, very good length. A distinctive style, I like it a lot.
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2022 La Grange 476 Côtes du Jura Les Bouchettes 95 Points
France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
A project of Dimitri Vetois and Marion Valverde, based in Ménetru-le-Vignoble in Château-Chalon. Electric young-vine Chardonnay from a south-facing parcel, somewhat reminiscent of the style of JF Ganevat, but with a much shorter élevage (one year in barrel, nine months in vat) and consequently more primary fruit (especially in this hot vintage), expressive of its grey marl terroir, intense and concentrated, borderline tropical on the nose, almost but not quite overpowering on the palate, oily texture (with only 12.5% ABV!) balanced by salty minerality, tightly wound but relaxed, lemony acidity, hint of earth, full-on mango on the finish, excellent resonance and length. Exceptional wine, but I have no doubt that it will divide opinion. I’m actually on the fence myself, but a high score is clearly warranted.
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2023 Azienda Agricola Philine Isabelle Barbera d'Alba 93 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba
Gorgeous young Barbera, supple and juicy, nice hint of spice, fresh and energetic, tightly wound but with a wealth of fruit, firmly structured with bright acidity and surprisingly grippy, sandy tannins, delightful hints of tar and cream, and floral lift on the finish. Pure, precise, elegant, focused, persistent. Textbook stuff. Will age well.
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