By glass in Burgundy - best restaurants and bars
Tasted Saturday, March 14, 2026 - Saturday, April 11, 2026 by Aÿoureuses with 27 views
Introduction
A guide on wine tasting by glass, in the Cote d'Or, without winery appointments. Compiled in off-season so things may be very different when you go.
One would think that an investment of Eur 5000 per oenomat would warrant at least a decent selection of Premier Crus, but no. The rarest wines are served from open bottles. I am not against village wines per se, but they are less useful for learning about Burgundy. Being made for easy drinking, they don't reveal the qualities and compromises of wines made to age.
Top establishments for tasting by glass:
Castel de Tres Girard, Morey: Exceptional wines by glass. A Premier Cru Meursault by Leflaive, three red Grand Crus (2 monopolies), typical bottle age 10 yrs. Add to that a 1996 Hermitage, a 2012 Ch. Latour, a Clos St Hune and a Dagueneau. No Coravin on my two samples. I think the selection references ready-to-drink vintages and known names, rather than excellent vintages and upcoming producers.
La Toute Petite Auberge, Vosne. A hotel, restaurant, self-service oenomat and boutique in one. Well staffed, well serviced, no excessive price markups. A focus on Ladoix, Nuits, Vosne and Chambolle, with some Premier Crus and an occasional Echezeaux or Mazis Grand Cru. This is the place to discover excellent, less known producers with famous vineyards. About 12 wines to choose from, exclusively Burgundy under argon.
La Cuverie, Vosne. Associated with Comte Liger-Belair, whose vineyard team was taking a lunch break here. About five Burgundy whites to choose from (1 or 2 Premier/GC), and 9-10 reds (4 Premier/GC). Only 2 wines by Comte L-B, both villages. Focus on lesser or abundant vintages: 2013, 2017, 2020-2023. In terms of the wines themselves, this was my least polished, least commercial, most interesting experience. I thought the wines here were selected for honesty. Some are surprisingly unique or paradoxical and each tells a story (even of failure). Mostly open bottles, some Coravin.
Also good:
Prestige Cellar, Beaune. The usual quality-price focus but well executed, with professional service. A couple of great finds at or near the Premier Cru level.
Now onto my Not Recommended list:
Loiseau des Vignes, Beaune. An excellent bistro where everything works: food, service, opening times, prices, interior, vibe, ownership ... everything except wine. If you are shocked to read this, I fully understand. The sommelier was even named as France's no. 1. But the four oenomats are filled with generic Burgundy and villages, with only a single Premier Cru in red and white, plus one other rare and interesting white. I accept that we are in a bistro, but I do not agree with 5000 euro oenomats being occupied by 50 euro bottles. The wine list by bottle seemed so short, I had to double check if a more complete one exists. I miss the food, though.
Le Montrachet, Puligny. One of my beloved establishments, except for wine by glass. Judging by the full wine list and the price level you would think that the argon-powered oenomats would be breeming with Derriere Chez Edouards, Batards and Caillerets, but they spend their imported noble gas on sub-50 euro bottles, like we are in Muscadet.
Premnord, Ladoix. I did not enter. Despite a large road-side sign touting long hours and tastings, this was closed all afternoon until 7 pm. The wine list displayed at the door had 9 wines by glass, of which only one Cote d'Or village - a Pouilly Fuisse. Zero Premier / Grand. A major let-down considering to the road sign. Perhaps closed during low season?
La Maison du Colombier, Beaune. Just a couple of wines by glass, around village level. Highly recommended for wine by bottle. I don't really like the food.
2023 Domaine du Cellier aux Moines Givry 1er Cru Clos du Cellier Aux Moines 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Givry 1er Cru
(4/2/2026)
By glass under argon at Loiseau des Vignes, Beaune
Youthful impact here, rather than any sweetness. Redcurrants nose with red-fruited, drying palate that is still quite closed. Tannin and acidity hit at once, just the fruits remain subdued. Has structure (persistent tactility of tannins). Drink with Beurre Bordier. 91 pts
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2023 Jean-Claude Boisset Ladoix 1er Cru Les Hautes Mourottes 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Ladoix 1er Cru
(4/10/2026)
Clear red. Light and mineral on the nose, with a hint of cherry peaking through. On the palate, the oak manages to smoothen and balance this out, against tannins that are still dry and persistent. The dense core of earth and cherry is meaty, satisfying. There is life and intensity here, finishing on beautifully rounded salinity and begging for a hearty dish. 93 pts
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2021 Domaine Jacques Prieur Meursault Clos de Mazeray 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
(4/10/2026)
By glass.
Lighter yellow with green tint. An unexpressive bouquet of faint lime zest, magnolia and rhubarb. Needs time in the glass. On the palate, this is weightless and interesting, with a drop of lime oil gorgeously balanced by vanilla variations.
Lots of tactile “special effects”: different types of juiciness and succulence, different sensations reminiscent of sparkles or bubbles, different levels of plushness. All provided in light touches first and building more intensity gradually.
Infinitely entertaining, its power staying concealed until its lime and saline aftertaste smashes through the next wine in the flight. Very directional and evolving - to drink this is to travel.
94 for me, 96 pts if you weren’t prescribed hazelnuts by your Meursault doctor.
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