A Noizé lunch

Gougères

• 2004 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  Mid straw. Classical reductive Comtes nose. Starting to open nicely. Very poised. A little backward cf recent bottles. It’s all there. ****1/2

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• 2004 Claude Cazals Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Clos Cazals 93 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Slightly fuller straw. Immediately richer on the nose but less soon the palate. Crème pat. A little tauter on the palate than the nose suggests. Just starting to show some ginger development. ****

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Crab

• 2017 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Domaine 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Mid straw. Green flecks. Poised, tightly coiled spring. Cut with lime. Good density.really quite long. ****

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• 2021 Xavier Monnot Corton-Charlemagne 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Mid gold.fuller and riche, not quite the cut or the line. Very decent though. A broader but no less fresher version.****

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Chicken parfait

• 1975 Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru) 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

  A dull mid ruby, fine sediment. Smells like St Julien. Nicely mature. One to decant and drink. Good shape. ****

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Mushroom bread

• 2011 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 95 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Mid to full ruby.autumnal, but good core of mid to dark red fruit. Densely silky. Combines density with fleetness of foot. Yummy. *****

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• 2012 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche di Castiglione 95 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Ditto the 2011… Mid to full ruby.autumnal, but good core of mid to dark red fruit. Densely silky. Combines density with fleetness of foot. Yummy. *****

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Comté x2

• 1995 Domaine de Montille Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

  Mid to full garnet. A little cloudy. Nicely autumnal. Sous bois and worn leather. Some energy. A little diffuse on the finish but that’s being a little picky. ****

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• NV Eric Rodez Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 38 91 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  100% Ambonnay Chardonnay. Mid straw. Lots of cut red fruit, particularly apple, on the nose and palate. Plenty of bounce. Producer and village trump cepage here. It’s a big wine, Chardonnay or no Chardonnay.****

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