Finger Lakes/German Riesling shootout

Glenora Wine Cellars, Finger Lakes
Tasted Saturday, November 8, 2008 by salil with 764 views

Introduction

A really interesting and eye-opening event put together by John Zuccarino and Thomas Pellechia to compare dry Rieslings from Germany with those from the Finger Lakes regions. The wines were all tasted double blind in sets of three, with only the organizers (who did not take part in the tasting/judging) knowing the lineups and order of serving.

The Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Riesling was the stand out for the Finger Lakes Riesling. While the other FL Rieslings either felt overly phenolic/chemical or shrill and acidic, the Wiemer Dry came across as the most balanced and enjoyable, and held its own with the better German wines poured. The Donnhoff dominated among the Germans, and I found the Messmer halbtrocken another stand out in the dry flight. The Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Großes Gewächswas a shock - this showed very poorly, and a second bottle opened later with dinner was almost as unpleasant to drink.

Flight 1 - The Finger Lakes/German Riesling shootout (14 Notes)

All poured double blind, three at a time.

  • 2006 Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan Riesling trocken 81 Points

    Germany, Pfalz

    Basic Riesling nose showing lime, grapefruit and minerals. Dry on the palate with citrus fruit flavours, good acidity and a faintly warm finish. Not particularly interesting, but a decent example of dry Riesling.

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  • 2007 Chateau Lafayette Reneau Dry Riesling 77 Points

    USA, New York, Finger Lakes, Seneca Lake

    The nose has a floral character which is spoiled by the presence of faintly plastic/vinyl aromas. Unpleasant on the palate with citrus fruits and awkward metallic and phenolic notes. Rough finish.

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  • 2006 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Großes Gewächs 77 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    Tasted from two different bottles. Very unpleasant from the first with an offputting nose showing strange, faintly chemical and metallic flavours and some tart lemon and grapefruit flavours. On the palate this felt austere and harsh with stony and flinty mineral notes, tart citrus fruits and faint herbal notes. Felt unbalanced and overall quite unpleasant. From a second bottle this was not as coarse or harsh on the palate, but the nose still was very offputting.

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  • 2007 Weingut Josef Leitz Riesling Eins Zwei Dry "3" 86 Points

    Germany, Rheingau

    Citrus, stone fruits and mineral notes on the nose and palate here. Bone-dry on the palate with lots of acidity - simple and straightforward, but quite uninteresting.

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  • 2007 Ravines Wine Cellars Riesling 70 Points

    USA, New York, Finger Lakes

    Awful aromatic profile with vinyl/plastic and metallic notes dominating everything else. Tart, awkward and unbalanced on the palate with a rough texture and finish.

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  • 2006 Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Riesling 88 Points

    USA, New York, Finger Lakes

    A slightly shy nose shows some citrus zest, pear and stony mineral notes. Very pleasant on the palate with orange, lime and nectarine flavours and a little residual sweetness. I did not pick this as a Finger Lakes Riesling in the tasting, and this was by far the most impressive wine from that area.

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  • 2007 Glenora Wine Cellars Riesling Flawed

    USA, New York, Finger Lakes

    I had a hard time believing this wasn't a flawed wine. Very awkward chemical nose, lemon and plastic flavours on the palate, incredibly rough and disjointed.

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  • 2006 Dönnhoff Grey Slate Riesling Kabinett trocken 89 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    Very nice nose with some flowers, pear, citrus fruits and slatey minerals. Clean and precise on the palate with bright fruit flavours around a core of minerals and good acidity. Refreshing and very enjoyable. My favourite of the flight.

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  • 2006 Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Riesling 82 Points

    USA, New York, Finger Lakes

    From a second bottle placed elsewhere in the tasting. Floral character, slightly sweet with nectarine and lime flavours on the nose and palate and good acidity. There's some noticeable residual sugar on the back that stands apart from the other flavours. May have suffered in comparison with the Donnhoff.

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  • 2006 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken 88 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Slightly austere with the nose showing a very minerally character. Bright, pure citrus flavours on the palate over crushed stones and good acidity. Clean and refreshing.

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  • 2006 Atwater Vineyards Dry Riesling 80 Points

    USA, New York, Finger Lakes

    Unpleasant nose with a dominant metallic/phenolic character. Much more pleasant on the palate with clean (if slightly simple) lemon and stony flavours. Long finish with a little warmth.

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  • 2006 Prejean Winery Dry Riesling 76 Points

    USA, New York, Finger Lakes

    Faintly metallic, chemical nose that's hard to get by. Tart green apple and lemon flavours and flint on the palate with high acidity, and shows some roughness on the back end. A second bottle of this (placed elsewhere in the flight) was very similar and just as unpleasant.

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  • 2007 Vineland Estates Winery Dry Riesling 83 Points

    Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Niagara Peninsula VQA

    Austere nose shows little. Shrill, overly acidic on the palate with clean but tart fruit flavours and stony minerals.

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  • 2007 Meßmer Riesling halbtrocken 89 Points

    Germany, Pfalz

    Tightly wound nose shows some grapefruit, lemon and minerals, but gives the impression there's more in reserve. Clean and precise citrus fruit flavours on the palate with lots of minerals and bright acidity underneath. This is one wine I'd like to explore more with some time and food.

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Flight 2 - Extra wines with dinner (4 Notes)

  • 2001 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese 92 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    A little tightly wound at first and ungiving on the nose, but this opened with some air to show brilliant flavours of slate, spices, orchard fruits, smoke and some hints of petrol. Medium bodied and silky in the mouth with similarly complex flavours around a core of bright acidity, and fantastic precision and focus. Finishes long and clean. Delicious.

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  • 1995 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    A very enjoyable wine with a great combination of youthful cassis, vanilla and dark fruited flavours and more advanced flavours of cedar, green herbs, earth and iodine. Elegant, silky and complex, unfolding one layer after another with time in the glass. A really lovely example of a classic Cali Cab.

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  • 2002 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 92 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Fuder #10 (designated on front label), AP #41-03. Light gold in colour with a gorgeous nose showing bright orchard fruits, pineapple, honey, spices and herbs. Rich and full bodied on the palate with a creamy texture and layers of peach, pineapple and spiced apples over mineral notes. Elegant, complex and lovely to sit and drink with some food and on its own.

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  • 1999 Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Riesling Auslese 93 Points

    Germany, Rheinhessen

    A stunning wine. Absolutely delicious with flavours of cherries, apples, peaches, pineapples and flowers drenched in honey and minerals. With time some petrol and creamy notes emerge. This is full bodied with immense power and richness, and good acidity underneath all the fruit keeping it in perfect balance. Long, honeyed finish.

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