Leflaive dinner, 23 wines non-blind

Tasted Friday, June 12, 2026 by Collector1855 with 63 views

Introduction

Tasted at the Restaurant Wildenmann in Buonas/Switzerland. A broader conclusion from the tasting is that 2019 may be one of the finest young vintages produced at Leflaive, combining the domaine's trademark mineral precision with an unusual level of charm and generosity. The two 2019 Pucelles and Bâtard-Montrachet were the stars of the evening, though the 2016 and 2019 Clavoillon deserves special mention as a wine that dramatically outperformed its classification. Conversely, the tasting was a sobering reminder of Leflaive's long struggle with premox, with fully six 300$+ bottles showing significant oxidative development. The surviving mature bottles, however - particularly the 2008 Bâtard - demonstrated that nicely aged samples do exist.
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Flight 1 - Aperitif (2 Notes)

  • 2015 Domaine Antoine Jobard Meursault En La Barre Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    oxidative

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  • 2015 Domaine Antoine Jobard Meursault En La Barre 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    The first bottle was unfortunately oxidised and replaced. The second showed the vintage in a much more flattering light. A generous Meursault bouquet of lemon curd, citrus oil and toasted oak emerges from the glass, with the warmth and richness of 2015 kept firmly in check by excellent underlying acidity. Broad without becoming cumbersome, this is a very complete village Meursault and a fine reminder of how successful the vintage can be in the right hands.

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Flight 2 - 1er Crus Flight I (3 Notes)

  • 2020 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

    A striking village wine. The nose immediately impresses with its purity and detail, offering white flowers, fresh citrus, subtle vanilla and sweet oak spices. The palate is remarkably refined, delivering impressive concentration without any excess weight. There is a sense of precision and polish here that would not embarrass many premier crus. Among the finest village Pulignys one is likely to encounter.

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  • 2015 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

    Showing a little more maturity and breadth than the 2020. Stone fruits have begun to emerge alongside citrus notes, while the palate is softer and rounder, reflecting the vintage. The proportions remain thoroughly Puligny, with elegance taking precedence over power. The acidity is slightly less pronounced than in the younger wine, making this approachable today, though it lacks some of the crystalline definition of the 2020.

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  • 2019 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    A wine that once again demonstrates why Clavoillon is often one of the stars of the Leflaive portfolio. The bouquet is captivating, soaring from the glass with layers of citrus oil, vanilla, spice, fine oak and subtle reduction. On the palate there is a wonderful combination of energy and volume. While Clavoillon lacks the outright pedigree of Pucelles, it frequently delivers a disproportionate amount of pleasure, and this bottle was a perfect example. Spectacularly expressive and a clear crowd favourite, eliciting appreciative murmurs throughout the table. 96-97

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Flight 3 - 1er Crus Flight II (4 Notes)

  • 2020 Domaine Leflaive Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Âne 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    A more restrained wine aromatically, requiring patience in the glass. Citrus notes dominate the profile, supported by bright acidity and a distinctly linear structure. The palate is fresh and focused, though somewhat lean for a premier cru Meursault. Attractive and well-made, but overshadowed by some of the more complete wines in the flight.

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  • 2020 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Considerably more reserved than the brilliant 2019. Fennel, green herbs and subtle citrus notes emerge gradually. The palate is racy and energetic, showing notable tension and a distinctly youthful profile. A touch of asparagus and green apple appears on the finish. This feels very much like a wine still in its adolescence and should benefit from additional bottle age.

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  • 2020 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Clearly cut from the same cloth as the Clavoillon but with greater amplitude and depth. The extra volume across the mid-palate is immediately apparent, while retaining the tension and energy that define the vintage. Less overtly charming today than some older examples, but possessing the underlying material to develop into a superb bottle. 94+

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  • 2020 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    The standout wine of the flight and a clear step up in refinement. The hallmark Leflaive paradox is on full display: extraordinary aromatic intensity coupled with remarkable lightness on the palate. Precision, elegance and detail are all elevated here. Everything seems perfectly proportioned, with exceptional length and effortless balance. A magnificent expression of Combettes.

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Flight 4 - Les Pucelles (4 Notes)

  • 2020 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Still somewhat reserved aromatically, but displaying excellent freshness and considerable refinement. Green apple and citrus dominate the flavour profile. The palate is taut and energetic, finishing with impressive persistence. One senses there is considerably more to come with further ageing. 95+

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  • 2019 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    The additional year and the generosity of the vintage have produced a noticeably more complete wine than the 2020. There is greater volume, more texture and a seductive creaminess layered over the citrus fruit. Butter, spice and mineral notes unfold seamlessly across the palate. This combines the stature of a grand cru with the finesse that makes Pucelles such a revered site. One of the wines of the tasting.

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  • 2014 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Still remarkably fresh and youthful. The structure is excellent and there is satisfying volume on the palate, but compared with the superb 2019 it lacks some aromatic intensity and emotional impact. Citrus, spice and mineral notes are all present and beautifully integrated, yet the wine remains more admirable than profound. A very fine bottle rather than a truly great one.

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  • 2012 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Unfortunately a clear case of premature oxidation.

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Flight 5 - 1er Crus Flight III (4 Notes)

  • 2016 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    One of the revelations of the tasting. The bouquet is magnificent, combining lemon zest, green apple, fennel, vanilla and an abundance of flinty reduction. Complex, vibrant and still youthful. The palate carries both authority and energy, delivering everything one could hope for from mature Clavoillon. At moments it approaches the level of lesser grand crus. A spectacular bottle.

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  • 2013 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    A lovely nose remains, but early oxidative notes of bruised apple and nuts are beginning to emerge. Fortunately the wine remains drinkable, best appreciated alongside a cheese platter.

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  • 2010 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Showing a similar oxidative profile to the 2013 Combettes, with walnuts and bruised apples dominating the aromatics. Still drinkable, but clearly beyond its optimal window.

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  • 1997 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    A reconditioned bottle, but sadly oxidation had already taken hold. Aromas very much in the Sherry spectrum.

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Flight 6 - Batard Flight I (4 Notes)

  • 2019 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet 99 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    An extraordinary wine and arguably the finest bottle of the evening. The nose is immediately compelling, displaying cream, lemon curd, vanilla, oak spice and remarkable depth. On the palate there is a clear increase in power relative to the premier crus, yet the wine never sacrifices elegance. Monumental in scale but perfectly balanced. A stunning Bâtard-Montrachet.

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  • 2014 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Still surprisingly youthful and somewhat reserved. Green apple, citrus and subtle matchstick reduction dominate the profile. There is considerable material beneath the surface and this feels as though it is still holding much in reserve. A serious wine that may yet improve further.

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  • 2019 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Displaying the same irresistible aromatic profile found throughout the best 2019s, with citrus curd, spice, reduction and fine oak. Less broad and powerful than the Bâtard, but more graceful and perhaps even more refined. Exceptionally long and beautifully composed. This was the last of the 2019 bottles of the evening and it confirmed for this tasting the top place belonged to this vintage, by a margin.

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  • 2014 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Elegant, precise and finely balanced. The wine is light on its feet, though there is a slight dip through the mid-palate which prevents it reaching the heights of the best bottles on show. Excellent nonetheless, though I found the some of the premier Crus like the 2019 Clavoillon or teh 2020 Combettes more compelling on this occasion.

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Flight 7 - Batard Flight II (4 Notes)

  • 2015 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet 98 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    A magnificent expression of Bâtard. Flint, vanilla, oak spice and citrus all combine seamlessly. The palate possesses tremendous volume and concentration, yet remains remarkably controlled. The reduction is beautifully judged and contributes substantial complexity. A truly great bottle.

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  • 2008 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Reconditioned bottle. One of the controversial wines of the evening. It showed quite a bit of patina but no acetaldehyde (oxidative) aromas. Notes of apple, passion fruit and preserved citrus, mushroom evoke mature Chenin Blanc at times. Complex, vibrant and characterful, though not on the same song sheet than the young, reductive, citrus oil styled Leflaives.

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  • 2012 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Sadly heavily affected by premature oxidation.

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  • 2002 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    A reconditioned bottle showing clear oxidative development nevertheless.

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