Vintner's Hall, London
Tasted Tuesday, November 1, 2022 by rikipedia with 73 views
A Tasting at 4 years of the 2018 wines that mostly form the Union de Grand Cru in Bordeaux
The 2018 vintage
2018 was a year easy to summarise as exceptionally wet for the first six months and magnificently dry and warm for the second.
After the wettest winter and spring on record, bud break was late, in the middle of April. May and June remained wet, posing a grave threat of mildew, a situation aggravated by the inability to get tractors into some vineyards to treat the vines because of waterlogged soil.
The one respite was a two-week period of dry weather at the end of May and beginning of June, which happily coincided with the onset of flowering on most estates; only a few early-ripening sites suffered a significant loss of crop from coulure. Sadly, after flowering, the wet weather returned, heightening the risk of mildew and causing devastation in some estates practising organic or biodynamic viticulture.
Thankfully, however, the weather improved, and from mid-July a fabulous period of dry, warm, sunny weather set in, lasting well into autumn and creating a euphoric harvest period. July had the highest average temperature since 1954 with hot days and warm nights. August was similarly hot and dry but didn’t reach the temperatures experienced in 2003. At first, the vines showed little stress as a result of the water reserves in the soil built up earlier in the year, and vine growth only came to a halt in most vineyards at the end of véraison around 15 August.
September continued to be dry and sunny with hot days but cool nights, allowing the fruit to ripen evenly whilst retaining good acidity. The dry weather with no risk of botrytis enabled growers to choose their moment and resulted in a long, extended harvest with no pressure to rush. Many growers said that they had never seen such consistently ripe and healthy fruit throughout the harvesting period.
Sugar levels were high, and the extraction of colour and tannin was easy, given thick-skinned grapes with only moderate amounts of juice.
Many châteaux made wines with some of their highest ever levels of alcohol and IPT (Indice de Polyphenols Totaux, which measures the quantity of tannins in a wine).
The fine weather lasted until mid-October, by which time the last cabernets had been picked. The subsequent rain proved beneficial for the Sauternes producers, provoking the onset of noble rot; the best sweet wines being harvested during the week of 22nd October.
To summarise, the dry whites are ripe and fruity and have been delicious to drink young with only the finest wines showing the mineral streak that characterises the best white Bordeaux. The sweet wines are also of good quality, and as the sixth consecutive successful vintage in a row, it is an unprecedented run for Sauternes.
As is often the case following a hot summer, it is the red wines that are the stars of the show. Rich, ripe and concentrated, the danger is one of over-ripeness and over-extraction of tannins. Fortunately, much of Bordeaux has rowed back from the over-extracted wines of the early 2000s and returned to a fresher, more elegant style, albeit with higher levels of ripeness and alcohol as a result of a warmer climate. The best 2018s capture this perfectly; rich and harmonious with ripe, sunny fruit, silky tannins and enough acidity to give length and freshness.
In short, they capture the freshness and precision of 2016 allied to the ripeness and generosity of 2009. Generally less austere than 2010, they will give huge pleasure to relatively young people but have the balance to age effortlessly.
Importantly, the vintage is successful throughout Bordeaux; seductive Pomerol, opulent Saint Emilion, elegant Graves and powerful Médoc. Summary was taken from the IMW claret tasting provided by Charles Taylor MW.
Deep ruby in appearance. The nose is more shy and restrained, showing black fruits alongside dark chocolate, spicy oak and tar, with some interesting lemony and herbal notes adding lift - although, to be fair, it comes across slightly green and almost stemmy.
The palate amplifies this sappiness, and the fruit feels suppressed. While there is some underlying structure and cassis-like sweetness, the wine lacks generosity at this stage. The finish is slightly dry, leaving a green leaf impression. Somewhat disjointed, with that stem-sap character carrying through to shorter-than-expected length. Underwhelming.
Blend of 68% CS, 30% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot.
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A deep ruby colour with fresh, intense aromas of blackcurrant and black cherry intertwined with classic pencil lead, graphite, tobacco and oak shavings, with a touch of wild, feral character and turned clay soil.
The entry is narrow and focused, with firmly structured tannins and a tightly wound core, lemon acidity that feels unyielding.
Full-bodied, there is a dry, slightly chewy build towards the finish, though this is softened somewhat by a layer of sweet, jammy fruit that coats the palate and some pleasant warm oak spices. A difficult wine to judge—showing both structure and ripeness, but not yet fully harmonised.
Blend of 55% CS and 45% Merlot.
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Deep ruby. A fresh, sonorous nose with attractive aromas of blackcurrant, dark plum and graphite, emphasised with wafer biscuit, toast and a slight wild & tarry note.
The palate exudes energy and vitality, yet is disrupted by odd notes of engine oil, brake dust, and herbal edges, giving a slightly reduced, stretched impression rather than fully expressive fruit.
Uneven extraction with drying tannins that suggest the fruit is not fully ripe; it finishes rather "bumpily"! 83-84/100
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(Second bottle) 2 hours later, displaying similar nasal qualities, the second bottle showed more earthy, barnyard qualities, further complicating the profile. The finish was long but again marked by extraction and dryness, leaving the wine not at its best despite its underlying potential. Better but not by much
Blend of 67% CS, 20% Merlot, 6% PV and 7% CF.
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A deep ruby colour with immediately wild, feral notes that slowly morph to wet earth, pencil shavings and tobacco leaves, with touches of black fruits slowly peeking out.
The palate is sinewy and narrow, lacking flesh, with sturdy tannins that build. At the same time, the acidity is tangy and a touch sour, amplifying the sense of extraction and structure over fruit generosity. In fact, the wine feels restrained and tight with a herbal edge that carries to a moderate austere finish. The tail is damp oak. Somewhat disjointed at this early stage and a little lean.
Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot.
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An intense, focused nose of iris, fresh blackcurrant and blackcurrant leaf accented with tree bark, pulverised stones, graphite, tilled earth and with a subtle lemony lift.
A well-composed palate with a lovely balance between flesh and polished tannic structure and complex, integrated oak spices. The fresh lemony acidity keeps the wine taut and classical in style. Perhaps the mid-palate lacks a touch of depth, and the wine, despite its acidity, still feels slightly blurred rather than sharply defined. Dark chocolate and liquorice add complexity, and the finish is long. Tricky to assess - perhaps awkward at this stage but promises plenty. On my return to the table (as others had found it excellent, the second bottle was far better. Suspect there was a touch of oxidation smudging the first bottle. 89-90
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The second bottle had far more delineation, and the fruit was more pronounced - length, complexity and tannic structure remained, but its precision stood out. Way, way better than my original 90!
Blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot.
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A deep ruby colour with a similar fruit profile to previous wines of blackcurrant, blackberry and redcurrant, but with more secondary components of toasty oak, baking spices and evident dark 90% chocolate. I also got a slight reduction in engine oil, but it blew off quickly.
The palate has a warming, almost cayenne-like spice and a firm tannic extraction that partly detracts from its overall balance. Somewhat horizontal in shape, it has a fresh acidity but lacks depth through the mid-palate. Generous, there is a better sense of length on the finish. A wine with power but not yet fully harmonised.
Blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, potentially with 60% new oak.
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Deep ruby with some initial engine oil, then notable smoky notes and some mushy dark fruits. There are some spicy oak notes with toasted almonds.
The palate, however, does not follow through cleanly. There is fruit to begin with, but the wine quickly turns metallic with a steely, briny edge. There is quite a bit of extract and heat from its 14.5% alcohol, and yet the mid-palate lacks concentration as the oak part becomes dominant. Feels disjointed and “all at sea”. Picked too late?
Blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot. 14.5% Alc.
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A notably riper and more open-knit style, showing black pastille fruit, cassis and raspberry compote with some red spices - a distinctly modern, almost New World-leaning impression.
The palate feels hot and bothered, with warming cayenne spice and pepper, accentuating the alcohol and the tarry, brake-dust quality of over-extracted fruits. In fact, the fruits veer towards dried blackcurrants. However, there is far greater concentration in these examples than in the previous ones, with more fibrous tannins. But all told, it comes across as heavy, less-than-refined, lacking freshness and lift.
Blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot.
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Ripe and intense with an interplay of red and black fruits - damson, forest berries and redcurrant - with a warming overlay of red spices with dusty notes, then toast and dark chocolate, yet a pick-up of joss sticks as it opens further.
The palate is more accessible than many in the line-up, with a lovely fruit base, concentration and a decent line of acidity. Threads of cayenne and smoked paprika integrate better here with the fruit. Whilst the wine has that extraction, there is a better balance of components and even a sense of poise as it carries to a long, winding finish. Solid with crushed velvet tannins and chocolatey richness, as spicy fruits close and just a touch of grappa. This got better in glass! 91-92
Blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Aged in 50% new French oak.
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A fresher wine with ripe fruit aromas of damson, black plum and blackberry with some iris flowers, complexed by wafer biscuit and tree bark. Yet there is also a grappa-like pomace note, too.
The palate is intense with cleanly defined ripe fruit supported by toasty oak spice. There is again a thread of extract that runs through the wine, particularly towards the finish, but this seems in balance even if the extraction is towards the higher side. A more complete wine has a lengthy tail with fine-grained compact tannins and feels more nuanced in its complexity.
Blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc and 14% Petit Verdot.
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A far more refined, inviting nose with Morello cherry, plum sauce, raspberry and blackcurrant leaf augmented by tilled soil, pencil shavings and worn leather with a touch of cocoa powder.
A rich and intense entry again marked by warmth and a degree of extraction, offset with a core of red and black fruits and supported by firm, drying tannins amplified by the alcohol and a lively acidity.
Not as seamlessly integrated as expected, the wine shows far more potential, even if it is not fully cohesive in this showing. Certainly improved in glass! 91-92
Blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. ABV: 14.5%
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An expressive, ripe fruit nose with sweet blackcurrant, cassis and bilberry accented by exotic spice, cocoa powder and noticeable oak lifted by some iris flowers and even a touch of torn mint.
The palate is lovely and intense, with fresher fruits infused with spicy oak, and a lovely, elegant gait underscored by plush, velvety tannins. A well-balanced example, this is more medium-weight as it heads to a lengthy close. There is still a slight tarry, warming edge and extract, but overall the wine remains harmonious.
Blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 13% Petit Verdot.
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The nose is heavily marked by oak, with wafer biscuit, oak spices and toasty notes dominating.
The wine shows considerable intensity and extraction, with grappa and pomace-like characteristics alongside ripe, sweet black fruit that just about holds the wine together.
Certainly opulent, with a strong impression of dark chocolate & coffee—almost like 100% cocoa chocolate — that reinforces the oak-driven, powerful style. However, it has excellent concentration and amazing length, yet there is noticeable heat and a sense of extraction that feels slightly jarring, leading to a drying, firm finish. An ambitious wine currently lacking full integration. 88-92!
Blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot.
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A ripe, intense nose with very ripe dark fruits of black currant and black cherry lifted by iris and violet with mocha and vanilla infusions edged by tree bark, pomace and a touch of grappa. There is also a touch of development lending a broad, accessible feel.
The palate follows suit with that same pomace character and a touch of oxidative notes, feeling rather porty, with damson, cassis, and kirsch driving the fruit profile, making the wine a little challenging in its expression. However, the tannins, whilst firmish, are really silken, and the melted chocolate-vanilla adds some plushness to the mid-palate. Plenty of extract, but done well given its ripeness. One sees its inherent quality in the concentration and length as the tannin gives a grippy clasp on the close.
Blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot.
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A super oaky, spicy profile, with pronounced toasty, star anise, dark chocolate and clove notes layered over ripe blackcurrant, damson and dark plum.
The palate follows in a similarly oaky vein, yet with plenty of fruit richness and concentration. The tannins feel controlled and less drying than expected, supporting a fuller, more “pushed” style with notable extract. Despite the weight, there is focus and lively acid, though perhaps not the most complex in its expression. The finish tapers relatively slowly, with a biscuity, wafer-like note close to the oak, which lingers a while longer.
Blend of 38% CS, 49% Merlot and 6% PV. ABV: 13.5%.
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A deep ruby with intense blackcurrant, redcurrant and bilberry that feel a little more defined and “cut” than many in the line-up. Graphite, cigar and a wisp of woodsmoke complement.
A dry, firmer, more classic style with clear definition of fruit, fresh acidity and fine-grained tannins. There is a sense of restraint and control, with the fruit sitting neatly within a structured frame rather than being overly pushed. More old-school in outlook—less about immediate charm, more about line and posture. The finish holds well - Very upright, decent example.
Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot.
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My note was partly unreadable, but this showed that pencil lead, cedarwood components, and darker fruits - a little more fragrant. Well-structured (grippy, I think I wrote!), elegant, good length.
Blend of 58% CS, 40% Merlot and 2% PV.
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A deep to opaque ruby with intense red fruits wrapped in a noticeable layer of oak—dark chocolate, wafer biscuits, toast and baking spice all to the fore. Velvet cake, rum-and-raisin ice cream, and pencil lead meld with dark plum, blackberry compote, and red berries.
Rich and accommodating, the tannins are cashmere-like, the fruit sweet, and the whole wine flows effortlessly across the palate. Opulent, full-bodied, and highly polished, this has impressive depth and concentration, with a strong oak imprint at this stage. It is undoubtedly a “wow” wine, with its very modern, glossy feel yet harmonious and layered, with an extended finish. However, like all top wines, as we stood around the grand piano, it raises the question of terroir versus élevage, such is the prominence of oak and style.
Blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc aged in 100% new French oak with additional large-format foudres.
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A deep ruby colour with evocative aromas of blackcurrant leaf, mulberry and dark plums accented by graphite and moments of spicy oak.
The palate is deeply layered, with penetrating fruit concentration and remarkable depth. Wonderfully defined and focused, the velvety texture gives way to seamlessly integrated tannins, with the mid-palate and back palate extending well into the distance.
Refined, knit, the oak merges with the fruit, a spine of fresh acidity further supporting. There is a clear Cabernet Franc signature, with its blackcurrant leaf lending some tension, alongside its chiselled precision. A superb, complete wine with both power and finesse.
Blend of 54% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in 100% new French oak.
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A deep opaque ruby with warm gravel, dried earth, tree bark and notes of portobello mushroom layered with a lashing of dark fruit and lifted by iris flowers.
The palate is powerful and concentrated, with noticeable weight of fruit and a firm imprint of spicy oak. Penetrative on the mid-palate, with dark chocolate coating its dark berry fruit, the wine is tightly coiled, with ultrafine kaolin (fine clay) tannins, yet the overall expression feels slightly dominated by its richness and extract at this stage. While undoubtedly classy, it did not quite reach the expected heights in this tasting, perhaps reflecting its youthful, compact phase. The finish is long and driven, with depth and persistence.
Blend of approximately 49.4% Merlot, 38.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11.9% Cabernet Franc. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in a high proportion of new French oak.
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A deep ruby colour with expressive aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant, mulberry and dark plum conserve, accented by dark 80% chocolate, wafer biscuit, dry spice and fine oak. A touch of violet lift with mineral components, more pulverised rock than warm gravel.
The full-bodied palate has a plush core as layers of fruit unfold seamlessly, supported by refined velvety tannins, fresh acidity and beautifully integrated oak. Remarkably elegant with penetrating depth, the wine delivers both power and grace. An exceptionally long finish makes this a terrific wine, with everything in place. 98+
Blend of 90% CS, 4% Merlot, 4% PV and 2% CF.
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Deep ruby with intense fresh red berries, mulberry, and plum, with dark chocolate and tapenade, offset by pomace, kirsch, and pottery clay elements.
The palate is earthier, with clay-like, powdery/dusty tannins and lively acidity that support the fruit, and it shows moments of spice and cocoa powder. Initially, it feels promising, with plenty of depth and interest, but with time in the glass, more extractive elements emerge, and a grappa burn lends to a drying finish that builds. This ultimately detracts from the balance and pushes the wine towards a more rustic, extracted finish.
Blend of 70% Merlot and 25% CS & others.
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Some reduced notes of engine oil and stone open further to cayenne pepper, prune, damp soil and dark fruits (blackberry, blackcurrant).
The wine continues in a similarly extracted vein, with prune-like richness, spicy oak and toast. The structure feels relatively open-knit rather than tightly focused, with a warming, cayenne-like spice on the finish that accentuates the alcohol. While there is underlying material and ripeness, the wine comes across as slightly unbalanced and overly driven by extraction at this stage, although a mineral twist on the finish livens proceedings.
Blend of 98% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, grown on limestone-rich soils.
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A riper, more developed nose of overripe orange, peach and pruney fruit that spar with red berries, blueberries and mocha notes. A touch of smoked paprika pepper also lurks.
The palate feels hot and driven by spice, with a noticeable cayenne-like note. Whilst there is plenty of fruit and the tannins feel glossy and polished, it only has moderate acidity. As such, the fruit feels a little overshadowed by the heat, giving a "hot and bothered” impression, with the finish lacking freshness and cohesion.
Blend of 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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A deep ruby colour with moderately intense aromas of ripe red cherry, Victoria plum, dark 55% chocolate and a little mineral and floral lift.
Quietly attractive, the palate delivers clean red fruit characters, lively acidity and polished tannins that are less marked by extraction than many of its peers, and a lovely harmony and composure. Perhaps a little more straightforward but a pleasing wine with a long-ish finish.
Blend of 85% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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Soft, fresh red berries of loganberry with some blackberry, spice and light oak influence.
The palate is fresh with a pleasant gait, round tannins and a gentle warming cayenne spice that sits nicely. However, it is somewhat one-dimensional in expression, not especially concentrated or complex, but agreeable enough. Would like a little more excitement!
Blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc.
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A deep ruby colour with intense penetrating dark fruits of cassis, forest berries and Morello cherry lifted by violet flowers and layered with earthy, damp clay and mushroom underneath, which sit dark chocolate, toast and oak spices all edged by a mineral, pulverised stone quality - fabulous nose!!
The palate is refined, elegant and well-structured, with a deep fruit core and a distinctive, dense, superfine, powdered-clay-like tannin (reminds me of kaolin clay, driven forward by a lively acidity). Tight with its mineral component, there are brushes of oak spices, cocoa, and dark chocolate, adding richness to the mid-palate and, together, a penetrative depth of flavour. Everything is in check and the finish is superb - a real standout, complete wine!
Blend of 37% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc.
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A more earthy style with warm gravel notes, charcoal pencils, and light spices mixed with darker berry fruits, plum, and Morello cherries, with a light floral lift and a lick of vanilla.
Quite a fresh style, with that lively acidity and mineral notes balancing the fruit and lending a refined, upright wine.
Athletic with silken tannins, the wine is balanced, with enough of each component to make for a solid wine. Whilst I liked the wine, it didn't enthuse me with the depth and complexity of some of the others, but it remains composed with a long finish. Honest fare.
Blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc.
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Deep ruby with floral-infused aromas of red cherry and elephant heart plum, dusted with cocoa powder and a touch of both cinnamon and paprika.
The palate has some fruit with warming tones but lacks much depth, feeling comparatively flat and less engaging. Certainly not delivering the same kind of excitement the wine is capable of, with a reasonably long warming finish.
Blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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A deep inky ruby with a touch of “engine oil” reduction at first before dark plum, blueberry and red cherry surface with a light dusting of cocoa powder and perhaps some liquorice.
The palate is intense, with good extraction delivering impressive richness and a lovely depth of flavour. Broad and layered, the wine has mid-palate generosity, noticeable warmth, and a cayenne-like spice that carries through to the long finish. Fine tannins are somewhat smothered by its fruit ripeness. Still, there is a velvety texture and luxuriance that draw you closer. Undeniable quality, but is the wine just tipping towards excess?
Blend of 75% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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A similar profile to the previous wine, with blueberry, dark plum and red cherry, dusted with cocoa powder, but here the oak is more noticeable, with wafer biscuits, star anise and cassia bark.
The palate is intense, with a rich, somewhat opulent core of fruit, supported by bright, fresh acidity and satin tannins. An excellent balance between fruit, oak and structure allows the wine to flow languorously across the palate. Elegant, focused and cohesive, the wine finishes long. Composed, upright yet charming.
Blend of 47% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Franc and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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A ripe, fruit-filled, intense nose, tempered by minerals and a touch of red spice, with some coffee-shop aromas adding warmth.
The palate is rich and concentrated, with plenty of fruit flesh that helps to carry firm, more extracted tannins and a vibrant acidity to push it forward. There is a noticeable warmth, with the alcohol protruding somewhat, giving a hot, challenging profile that almost cooks the fruit a little. Still, the wine has plenty of material and depth of flavour even if some of its initial freshness is put to the wayside. 89-91
Blend of 71% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon.
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A deep ruby colour with blood plum, blackberry and red cherry accented by whole spices and dried flowers and some crushed stone.
Ripe with a touch of pomace, this is a more structured example with firm, gritty tannins and a mineral-edged acidity. The fruit and tannins feel equally dense, and the wine has a certain power yet elegance. A more solid style with more hooks and structure that should carry forward for the long term, if they are still finding their way to integrate. A little more dynamic than some, with touches of torn mint and sea salt on the extended finish. A more alive wine!
Blend of 72.3% Merlot and 27.7% Cabernet Franc.
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A gorgeous nose combining Damson plum, Morello cherry and Moroccan spice with a touch of prune, melted Venezuelan chocolate and a wisp of smoke.
The full-bodied palate is ripe with generosity, rounding out into the mid-palate. A spiced, fruit-forward core is supported by silky, pillow-soft tannins and fresh acidity. Supple and limber, with excellent concentration, this is a polished wine balancing richness and freshness, with a lingering impression of dark fruit and cocoa. Just got better and better
85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc, reflecting 9
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A ripe, fruity berry mix and blackcurrant, with some floral lift and a touch of earth, sit alongside wafer biscuits, exotic spice and toast oak notes.
The palate is full-bodied, with fine-grained, powdery tannins and lively acidity, with a more classical structure. Excellent depth of flavour; there is noticeably more life than some peers, with a sense of penetration through the mid-palate. Nuances of bitter chocolate and spice with some underlying savoury streaks add complexity.
Arguably, more frontal in its ripeness, the wine is composed and finishes long and persistent. 93-94
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Exuberant aromas of blackberry, red cherry, blood plum and bilberry are brushed with fresh herbs, lifted by some dried flowers and augmented by dark 85% chocolate - gorgeous!
The palate is silky soft, with a succulent texture, adorned with plenty of fruit, touches of liquorice and melted chocolate. Fresh and restrained tempers any sense of overripeness. Integrated tannins support a layered and harmonious mid-palate as the wine ebbs and flows across the palate. Poised, polished yet rich with a touch of heat, the finish is long and persistent. Fab!
85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon (possibly a touch of CF).
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Attentive aromas of baked red fruits - prune, damson, dried blueberry and date dusted with paprika. Some dark 80% chocolate, charred hazelnut, and cocoa sit behind with a touch of liquorice and malt.
A noticeable, generous, tarry entry that feels rich and sweet, leaning into those dark, pruny, shrivelled fruits but also pushing toward overripeness.
Broad and powerful, the wine has assertive tannins, heightened by its grappa-induced alcohol, that heat up the back palate as cayenne pepper takes hold. Somewhat extracted, the structure is formidable and forceful. Underneath it certainly has depth and finishes longer than expected, but all a little grunty.
93% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc, typical of Pomerol’s Right Bank dominance of Merlot. The 2018 vintage’s warm conditions have resulted in a wine of notable concentration and ripeness, with extraction and structure playing a key role in shaping its powerful, age-worthy style.
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Gently lifted red and black fruits - Morello cherry, forest berries and blackcurrant coulis - are complemented by juniper, bay leaf and liquorice. A lovely brightness.
The mid to full-bodied palate is vibrant and intense with more red fruits at its core. Fine, powder tannins, almost sweet in nature, lending support as it caresses the mid-palate, almost holding back the warming alcohol as it builds. The finish is reasonably long, yet has a slightly pruny character with a thread of volatility, which detracts a little. Yet, harmonious - might have been a compromised bottle. Bottle 1: 88-89; Bottle 2: 93
Blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.
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Substantially better with none of the VA issues. Much cleaner, with more depth and vibrancy. Gorgeous in fact!
Blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. (But both notes are in due to further issues of bottle variation.
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A riper, somewhat sultry nose with darker, baked fruits and a touch of engine oil. Savoury, spicy, and dark 95% chocolate notes slowly emerge, as do a touch of dried rose petals and, finally, blackberry.
Again, the palate feels overripe and somewhat extracted, with firm, dry tannins that blanket the fruit underneath. Drying with some oak spices and lively acidity, there is much vitality to carry the wine. A rather austere, muted fruit expression - lacks engagement.
63% Merlot and 37% Cabernet Franc.
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Intense crushed damson, Morello cherry, bilberry and forest berries confit, dusted with exotic spice of incense, cardamom and cassia bark, accented with a liquorice, chocolately note that is just plain gorgeous! Some toasty oak and cigar wrapper peeks out from the side.
The entry is supple and open-knit, embracing the palate with its plush texture and opulent, mouth-filling fruits. Prune-led, the fruit has sweetness but is more than adequately supported by dense yet super-fine tannins and a lively acid thread. All the components seem well integrated, yet there is enough extraction and concentration for the longer haul. The finish is exceptionally long, carrying dark fruit, spice and a lingering richness, making for a wine that, while powerful, remains surprisingly accessible. Fab-tastic!
100% Merlot
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Aromas of wild strawberry and loganberry mix with blood plum, morello cherry and damson, accented by tapenade, dark 80% chocolate, Costa Rican coffee, charred hazelnut and cocoa nib.
Medium to full-bodied, the wine is intense on entry, with fine, powdery tannins and lively acidity, with a real sense of penetration through the mid-palate. A mix of red and black fruits starts to push towards damson and light prune as the oak supplies lots of chocolatey goodness. Plush, the wine improved with air, gaining cohesion towards its lengthy finish.
95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc.
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Haunting aromas of morello cherry and blackcurrant coulis highlighted by liquorice, dark 90% chocolate, nutmeg, clove and ember dust.
A powerful and opulent wine with notably dense and fine-grained tannins that frame a core of spiced fruit and chocolate. A touch of brighter acidity lifts the mid-palate, balancing the wine's rich creaminess. There is ample depth and concentration of flavour, as this muscular example lends precision to its athletic prowess, guiding it to a persistent finish with a lingering spiciness. A wine that will certainly age.
93% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.9
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The nose shows lovely lift and focus, with gravelly, warm, dark fruits intertwined with graphite and a sense of intensity. There is clear depth and classic Médoc character.
A touch of engine oil at first before fruity notes of cassis, kirsch cherry, and blackberry come into view, enunciated by hot rock dust and graphite with a sprinkle of exotic spices - think star anise, cardamom, and coriander seed - some dried flowers also.
The entry initially feels somewhat flustered, with a mix of fruit, extraction and noticeable alcohol warmth, and there is an oiliness ot its texture as its firm, dry and somewhat abrasive tannins grip the palate.
However, with air, the wine begins to settle, revealing a more composed and impressive framework of nasal fruits, exotic spice, and mineral/lead pencil notes, heightened by a fresh, crisp acidity. Whilst the tannins remain substantial and gripping, there is justifiable balance with its immense concentration. A protracted, intense finish; this is a hefty, structured wine that should have significant potential once the elements harmonise. 93-95
74% CS, 23% Merlot, 2% CF and 1% PV. Low yields 30 hl/ha.
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Soothing aromas of Morello cherry and blackberry fuse with spicy oak, dark 70% chocolate, and subtle earthy, hot-rock tones.
A rather laid-back wine, gentle and accommodating, with fine powdery tannins that feel less intrusive than many of its peers. There is that cayenne spice warmth and tarry ripeness, yet the degree of warmth embraces rather than spars with enough acidity to balance. The oak is still present, but this is a composed wine with nicely delineated edges and a touch of muscle to shape the mid-palate. A long, dry finish, augmented by wood extract and spice, that should integrate with time in the bottle. Traditional, but quietly “smart.”
54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 8% Petit Verdot.
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A combination of blackberry, loganberry, mocha, liquorice and oak spices freshened by laurel leaf and fresh thyme with savoury twirls from some fresh undergrowth/cigar leaves.
The palate is finely structured, with compact fibrous tannins, fine delineation, and fresh acidity. A core of fruit is dusted with red spices, particularly cayenne pepper, that picks up through the mid-palate. Concentrated and layered, the wine shows oak spices as it warms towards the close. A long, slightly chewy and more minerally finish that will benefit from time to harmonise.
64% CS, 26% Merlot, 6% PV and 4% CF.
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A deep inky ruby with intense, profuse aromas of blackberry, iris, cassis leaf and redcurrant raised with cigar box, bay leaf and pencil lead infused with espresso coffee, dark 90% chocolate and cigar box. Gorgouesly fresh and very much “on point.”
An impressively structured full-bodied palate with rich, dense, seamless tannins and a light lemon acidity. Powerful yet not over-extracted, there is a touch of grappa, but this is subsumed by the wealth of fruit and supporting oak. There is a cooling, damp clay note that adds savoury edges to its current primary stance. Penetrating and deep, the wine keeps a long, composed line as it departs steadily but sensuously. An authoritative, serious wine that exudes refinement and will offer even more in the future.
Blend of 72% CS, 20% Merlot, 6% CF and 2% PV.
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A deep ruby colour with enthusiastic aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry and ripe purple plum accented by cedarwood and tobacco with oak -derived notes of woodsmoke, cocoa powder, allspice and star anise.
The palate is ripe and somewhat “obvious” in style, leaning towards a more modern fruit-forward expression. Sweet on entry, the dark fruit is rich with a grappa-like, almost pomace note and a liqueur-like chocolate-wrapped plum. The tannins are firm and powdery, with moderate acidity, complementing a full-bodied, powerful stance that is just short of being too massive. A long length, the sweet mid-palate seems to work nicely with the drier tannin structure. A well-made modern-leaning wine, if a little overt.
Blend of 50% Merlot, 41% CS, 6% PV and 3% CF.
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Effusive, fresh aromas of redcurrant, blackcurrant and cassis leaf, complemented by cigar box leaves, cedarwood and some pressed iris flowers.
The palate is youthful and vibrant with dry, slightly austere tannins that grip the gums whilst a lemony acidity runs horizontally through the mid-palate. There is plenty of extract, almost a pomace, grappa edge, but also a sense of control as the wine sits upright, keeping all the components in proportion. Spiced fruit and tobacco leaves add complexity, whilst the finish is long and focused with a certain restraint. Very classical, if a little tight at present. 91-93
Blend of 58% CS, 33% Merlot, 5% PV and 4% CF.
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Fresh and attractive with some fragrant edges of dark iris and violet with cassis leaf, blackcurrant coulis and Morello cherry, nuanced by liquorice, tobacco leaves, spicy oak and dark chocolate.
An impressive palate structure with fine, integrated silken tannins layered with a generous helping of dark fruits, complemented by well-judged oak that is still integrating. A vibrant acid lifts the mid-palate as the sweeter (Merlot?) fruit broadens out seamlessly, flowing towards a long, extended encore. A wine already in harmony, elegant but with enough tannic structure to carry for the long term. A very smart wine and one of the finds of the tasting. 95+
Blend of 61% CS, 29% Merlot, 7% CF and 3% PV.
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A more floral, greener-styled nose with blackcurrant leaf, violet and cigar box, nuanced by dark 90% chocolate, oak spices and a touch of graphite.
The entry is notably intense, marked by pomace-like extract, warmth and a lift of cayenne. Minerally and sinewy, the wine turns angular as the tannins build and redder spice notes take over, the finish tapering to a dry, habanero-like heat on the back palate. Underlying quality and concentration are evident, but the wine lacks full cohesion in this showing.
Blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. 60% new French oak.
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Pure aromas of cassis leaf, blackcurrant coulis and cedarwood freshness, with touches of cigar box and spice.
The palate is composed and classically structured. Intense and forward-driven, the wine shows clarity of fruit, well-judged dry tannic extract and a fleshy core of dark fruits, all framed by a fresh line of acidity that keeps the well-integrated alcohol in check. Length is good and the structure composed, with only a touch of warmth on the finish to note. Overall, this is harmonious, well-crafted and impressive — elegant, refined, and a treat to drink.
Blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc.
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A classically structured wine offering fresh blackcurrant, crushed blackberry and touches of hedgerow plum, woven through with wafer biscuit, cigar wrapper, exotic spice and cocoa powder.
The palate shows real intent — rich and creamy, drawing out a cornucopia of concentrated fruit alongside black olive, liquorice, crushed biscuit and grappa. While perhaps lacking the absolute depth of some peers, there is genuine density at the core, with vibrant acidity driving the wine forward and firmer, more austere tannins providing the support. All elements feel nicely in control as it stretches long into the aftertaste, suggesting strong ageing potential. 94+
82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Merlot.
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Deep purple-ruby in colour, with expressive, cooling aromas of blackcurrant and cassis layered with woodsmoke, cigar wrapper, stone dust and graphite, lifted by a mix of cassia bark, pimentón and star anise.
The palate is intense, showing wonderful precision and depth. Dark fruits sit at the core, supported by dense, fine-grained tannins that feel polished as they envelop the fruit, while a lively acidity threads through deep mineral undertones. There is richness without excess, athletic in gait, the wine carrying itself with authority throughout.
Impeccably structured, this full-bodied, concentrated wine is composed and balanced, with excellent mineral-tinged persistence on the close. A serious, complete and very impressive wine that oozes refinement - utterly compelling!
Blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc.
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Deep ruby in colour. The nose is ripe but slightly smudged, with bruised blackcurrant and prune juice alongside pencil shavings, oak spice, dark 85% chocolate and espresso bean.
The palate lacks fruit expression — partly the smudging masking what's there, partly the oak, which is quite inveigling. Moments of blackcurrant and smoke emerge alongside herbal edges that feel almost bipolar, sweetness and greenness pulling in opposite directions. The spices carry a hot, cayenne-like edge as the tannins and oak stand out more prominently than the fruit, and a touch of prune-like richness combined with sweet oak further complicates the balance.
The wine lacks clarity overall — there is material here, but cohesion and harmony are missing in this showing.
Blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.
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Deep ruby colour with ripe aromas of cassis, prune, and blackberry, combined with baking and redder spices, offset by graphite, cedarwood, and cigar wrapper.
The palate has an old-fashioned strudiness to it, yet is filled with super-ripe fruits that feel a little extracted. Intense, the palate feels hot and somewhat unsettled, with a “hot and bothered” character, as freshness is thin on the ground, stunting the finish. A wine with material, but feels awkward, almost a geeky kid trying to wear cool pants and a backwards cap to fit in.
Blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot.
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Deep ruby colour with intense blackcurrant, damson plum, and redcurrant, melded with graphite, pencil shavings, baking spice, wafer biscuit, and a touch of fresh herbs.
The palate carries this forward with a rich core of fruit, firm shapely tannins and a lively acidity. Some polish to its frame; this is a solid, well-held-together wine that should age well and reflect classic Pauillac character. Closes with more minerals and graphite a apinch of cayenne pepper.
Blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot.
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Deep ruby with light aromatic notes - light for Pauillac- of red cherry, blackberry and forest berries with a touch of engine oil at first that blows off to reveal some light spices, cigar wrapper and pomace.
The palate feels lightweight yet marked by extraction, with a sinewy texture giving fibrous tannins. Ripe fruit is present, but is overshadowed by a glycerol warmth and a “hot and bothered” character that shows as grappa and red spices. The finish follows in a similar vein, leaving an impression that is not entirely convincing.
Blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot.
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Attractive blackcurrant and blackberry, nuanced with cedarwood, cigar wrapper, tar, and a minerally graphite that lends some freshness.
The palate is round and expansive, delivering a full-bodied, powerful wine with intense fruit concentration and firm, drying tannins that give shape. Cassis, tar and spicy oak swirl on the mid-palate with a lightly spiky alcohol heat. Whilst not entirely integrated at the moment, the wine has plenty of material to reward patience in the bottle.
Blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Merlot.
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A ripe, warm, intense nose that yields cassis and stewed blackberry brushed with dark 70% chocolate, wafer biscuit and toasted spices.
A generous entry, the wine displays plenty of fruit presence with a lovely embrace as oaky nuances and a touch of tobacco leaf fill out the mid-palate. A richer, more modern expression that works well, as its firm, fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity give freshness and some tightness that carry the ripe elements. A generous, approachable Pauillac with depth and richness, if slightly marked by the vintage warmth.
Blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot.
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A combination of ripe blackberry, prune and cassis, complexed with dried orange peel, cardamom, cigar box, dark 85% chocolate and wafer biscuits with a lovely fresh graphite line - lovely intensity.
The wine is bold and richly textured, with plenty of fruit, some star anise, and a warming glycerol that tends to give a "sweaty" orange oil note in the mid-palate. Despite this, the wine has good extract, with an assertive backbone that builds to a lengthy finish. Solid stuff; it isn't quite knit yet.
Blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon and 41% Merlot.
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Inviting and pure aromas of blackcurrant and blackberry with a noted graphite edge and some cedarwood, tobacco leaves, and dusted in dry spices.
Super focused, the palate reflects with amazing penetration and a core of dark fruits, supported by compact, powdery tannins and complex notes of dark 85% chocolate, cocoa powder, and espresso bean, lightly dusted in spice. A well-constructed, full-bodied, subtly powerful wine that displays a sense of freshness that carries through to a long, composed finish.
Blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot.
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A very ripe nose offering prune juice, shrivelled blackcurrant and cassis, with a slightly oily engine note at first. Touches of dry tobacco, powdered clove, cayenne and dried soil add further to the ripeness!
The palate is full-bodied and powerful, with a clear sense of ripeness and heavy extraction. Oak influence is evident through plenty of oak spice, yet more fruit is on show than the nose suggested. Youthful and clearly worked, the wine has been picked super-ripe, but despite its heftiness, it finds an interesting balance as assertive tannins and mineral qualities begin to kick in on the finish. It broadly works, perhaps teetering on the edge of full-blown massiveness, resulting in a solid wine with a long finish, though marked by the vintage's heat and extraction. 91-
Blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 28% Merlot.
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Rather unsettled, with engine oil, charcoal, grilled herbs, and overripe fruits that are pruny and cooked with a port-like sweet fragrance.
The palate follows this bipolar ripening with its port-like richness and apparent sweetness sitting alongside greener tones. The mid-palate feels heavily extracted, with plenty of oaky spices and cayenne pepper, suggesting elevated alcohol levels. On the upside, there are mineral notes, some hot bricks, and dark fruit lurking. Feels “all at sea” and not sure how this will come together.
Blend of 47% CS, 48% Merlot, 3% PV and 2% CF.
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Whilst there is more lift with some lemon, graphite and blackcurrant, there is also that cayenne spice, prune and Turkish date.
Full-bodied, super ripe and richly textural, this powerful wine has depth and concentration, on the side of extraction and muscular heft. There are layers of fruit, a strong presence of oak, and as it opens, that richness leans into a porty, damson-like richness. Despite that and the warming glycerol, it works as a lemony acid adds freshness and dense, powdery tannins support. In fact, the core is nicely structured with some melted dark chocolate and spices carrying this athletic, muscular wine through to an extended finish.
Blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot.
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A deep, dense ruby core with ripe blackberry and cassis, infused with baking spice, graphite, black tea, and cedarwood, lifted by some blue floral tones.
A full-bodied wine with plenty of extraction, it has a core of dark fruits, chilled Assam tea (Petit Verdot?) and spices, supported by firm, dense tannins and vibrant acidity. There is a warming sensation as before, but this has a floral brightness with a more elegant gait despite its athletic muscle. Some pomace and grappa notes do pull the wine away at times, giving a slightly disjointed impression. Still, these should knit as the wine settles, if a little challenging at the moment. Layered with a relatively refined palate, the wine finishes long.
Blend of 71% CS, 23% Merlot, 5% CF and 1% PV.
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A deep inky ruby colour with ripe blackberry and cassis mixed with prune juice, shrivelled/baked blueberry and dried orange, suggesting serious ripeness. Some warming but not hot spices join a scorched soil, dark chocolate and a wisp of smoke.
The palate is full-bodied, with more dried orange peel and extracted firm tannins that give the wine a bitter quality. There is a core of dark fruits, richness, a certain opulence and a great concentration. Yet, the wine feels heavy and unintegrated, with extraction dominating and a drying, slightly harsh finish. A disappointing showing given the wine’s pedigree. Has the ingredients to improve.
Blend of 70% CS, 22% Merlot, 5% CF and 3% PV.
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A deep golden colour with expressive aromas of semi-dried apricot, pineapple rings and ripe yellow nectarine with lifted bergamot and ginger notes, with some peach blossom infusing.
A medium-weight, botrytic wine with a sense of glycerol and power, and enough acid tension to balance its sweet profile. Clear, defined fruits. This is a classy wine with a clean, focused finish. Clean, long and well-composed, although not that complex at this stage. 91-93
A blend of 75% Sémillon, 23% SB and 2% Muscadelle.
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A deep gold with intense aromas that are floral at first, with apricot preserve, peach, dried mango and honeyed notes swirling with some ginger and candied lemon peel - clear botrytis character.
A clean, medium-bodied wine with lovely clarity of fruit, its sweetness balanced by a fresh acidity. A more straightforward, well-made wine that, whilst lacking in complexity and depth, delivers an enjoyable, more fruity expression of Sauternes without quite dazzling.
Blend of 90% Sémillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc.
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A deep golden colour with riper, more intense aromas of thick-cut orange marmalade, candied lemon peel, mirabelle and apricot nectar, with a pronounced botrytis character of stem ginger and turmeric, and a noticeable layer of oak spice, light caramel and a smear of vanilla.
The palate is far more vibrant than the nose suggests, with vivacious acidity working with its noted glycerol sweetness and warming alcohol.
A sense of energy and focus lifts the mid-palate fruit, which flows into an extended finish. Complex already, though a slight SO₂ note is still present; the wine has a glorious gait, giving balance and is a very appealing and well-made Barsac.
Blend of 90% Sémillon, 6% Sauvignon Blanc and 4% Muscadelle.
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A deep golden colour with a lovely interplay of fresh floral notes: saffron, citrus blossom and yellow flowers set against apricot flesh, baked peach and linden honey, all with a deep botrytis influence.
The palate is intense with a real vibrancy to the core and plenty of stone fruit. The freshness of acidity brings lift through the mid-palate, and the balance between sweetness and acidity is well judged, giving both some energy as it moves to a long, effusive finish. Some refinement here. 93+
100% Sémillon from Barsac
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Antique gold with a more enveloping bouquet of marzipan, almond paste, honey nuts/baklava, with apricot preserve, dried satsuma and pineapples in syrup. A touch of SO2 was also noted.
The palate has depth and honeyed complexity, yet less of the outright botrytic spices are present. More apricot flesh and candied citrus; there is a pleasant balance of sweetness, glycerol, and bright acidity. A more straightforward and “down the line” example than a deeply complex one. Clean with a moderate length, this is a solid Sauternes without the frills. 90-91
Blend of 60% Sémillon, 36% Sauvignon Blanc and 4% Muscadelle.
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A deep amber-gold with penetrating aromatics of saffron, ginger, mangosteen, lemon peel, and yellow flowers that mingle with apricot confiture, dried pineapple, Seville orange, and honeyed peach halves. A notably more complex and elevated wine with a stunning interplay between ripe botrytised fruit, sweetness and a balancing thread of acidity that keeps the wine fresh and precise. A touch of warmth from the alcohol appears on the back palate, which is well managed by mineral tones. Full-bodied and well delineated, this is an impressive wine with a long tail.
Blend of 94% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon Blanc and 1% Muscadelle.
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A deep amber gold with satsuma marmalade, guava in syrup, dried apricot (meebos) and some more delicate floral, saffron and honeyed nuances.
Full-bodied and thickly textured, the wine is dense and concentrated, with real presence, and the mid-palate offers some acidic respite to balance out the sweetness. However, the finish, whilst long, leans into its opulent nature, becoming heavy and oily towards the back palate and outweighing some freshness and precision. Yet I still liked it!
Blend of 82% Sémillon and 18% Sauvignon Blanc.
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A deep golden colour with powerful aromas of dried mango, apricot, orange marmalade, peach, saffron, preserved ginger, and fresher lemon peel, with a touch of oaky spices.
The wine is full-bodied, weighty and concentrated, offering a viscous, sweet palate, but is wonderfully freshened by citrussy notes that lift the mid-palate, giving remarkable balance. Rich and powerful, with a tremendous breadth of flavours, the wine has a sense of precision as tropical and stone fruit meld with spicy botrytis, yielding a beguiling botrytic depth that leads to a long, layered finish. Fantastic! 96+
Blend of 94% Sémillon and 6% Sauvignon Blanc.
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2018 Château Bouscaut 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
A mid to deep ruby with ripe dark fruits suggesting blackcurrant, dark plum and sweet berry compote with subtle oak spices - a generous open expression.
Very much a rich, ripe style on entry, with a core of sweet black fruits, framed by pliant tannins that give a plush texture. Intense through the mid-palate with great concentration, the wine is accessible and polished with a long exit, leaving a rounded and satisfying impression that I rather liked!
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2018 Château de Fieuzal 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Deep ruby. The nose is more lifted and aromatic with iris and violet alongside herbal notes, pencil lead, cedar, blackcurrant leaf and wisps of smoke.
Fresh and intense on the palate, this is a more linear shape delivering plenty of fridge-cold crushed blackcurrant fruit with a firm backbone of narrow tannins. A well-defined wine heads to an elongated finish. Still young but very smart.
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2018 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 97 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
A deep ruby colour with remarkable intensity, evolving into sultry, rich aromas of cassis, tilled soil, clay pot, graphite, and black cherry, with a touch of woodsmoke and cigar wrapper.
Full-bodied and powerful, the wine displays remarkable depth and concentration of flavour, with rich layers of dark fruits ebbing and flowing across the mid-palate. Velvety, dense tannins cushion the fruit as the mid-palate broadens out somewhat before sliding to an extremely long finish. Impressive balance, this is a wine showing superbly right now, but with more promise going forward. 97+
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2018 Château Olivier 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
A deep ruby colour with a lifted nose expressing blackcurrant leaf, cut plum and dark cherry with some grilled herbs and woodsmoke that pushes towards cigar box.
The entry is bright and fresh, and the wine is medium-bodied, with fine-grained tannins running horizontally across the palate, giving persistence rather than depth. The fruit profile is centred on black fruits, delivered in a linear, focused style, with lively acidity that helps it flow. I found the palate tight and somewhat narrow, lacking a degree of charm or breadth, instead presenting as controlled and monolithic at this stage. The finish is mid to long and will likely need more time in bottle.
A blend of 50% CS, 46% Merlot, 4% PV. ABV: 14.5%9
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2018 Château Pape Clément 89 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Deep ruby with a hint of garnet at the rim.
A more open-knit nose with ripe blackcurrant, blackberry, ground coffee, and a smear of vanilla that is already showing a touch of development.
The palate is fruit-forward, with layers of dark fruit and a notable chocolate-milk richness that together add mid-palate sweetness. Firm, slightly furry-edged tannins somewhat counter the sweetness, and a lively acidity helps. However, the wines give a slightly blurry/smudged impression, suggesting that all is not well (bottle variation?). Warming and generous on the back palate, there is a sense of rising dryness on the exit.
A blend of 56% CS, 40% Merlot and 4% CF. ABV: 14.5%
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2018 Château Smith Haut Lafitte 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
A deep ruby colour with a delightful mix of dried rose petal, violet, graphite and potting soil, segues into blackcurrant, hedgerow fruit, some leaf and then damson plums, underscored by spicy, toasty notes and a notable dark (90%) chocolate note. The palate is dry, intense and somewhat linear. A core of black fruit is layered with tarry and graphite notes as fine powder tannins shape. Smooth and polished with a long, unwavering finish. Closes with more cocoa, baking spice and chocolatey richness. Smart wine, there is a sense of luxury about it!
A blend of 60% CS, 34% Merlot, 4% CF and 2% PV. ABV: 14.5%
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2018 Domaine de Chevalier 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Deep ruby with attractive floral aromas of rose petal and hibiscus - even something lavender-like. Morphs into crushed red cherry, boysenberry and blackcurrant with some fresh bay leaf, black pepper and powdered clove, adding a delightful freshness.
Medium to full-bodied, the wine has vibrant fruit, supported by sinewy, finely wrought tannins and a warm, gravelly undertone. Sits upright, with crisp acidity lending tension to the rich, somewhat juicy core, held in check by a subtly citrusy (lemon-infused) freshness. There is less mid-palate depth than expected, but the wine nonetheless sings as it makes its way to a long farewell. Composed and elegant.
A blend of 65% CS, 30% Merlot and 5% PV. ABV: 14.5%
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2018 Château Malartic-Lagravière 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Gorgeous, lifted perfume with intense aromas of blackcurrant, black cherry and blackberry with swirling notes of espresso coffee, woodsmoke, dried herbs, cigar and oak spices.
A full-bodied wine that is rich in texture, round in shape, with an impressive depth of flavour as dark fruit melds with bitter 90% chocolate balanced by lively acidity and firm tannins. Concentrated, the tannins build towards the finish, becoming a touch drying, but seem to offset the richer tones as oakier notes of cocoa and spice surface towards the tail.
A well put together, seamless wine with plenty of material, yet it will soften structurally with time in the bottle.
57% CS, 36% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 3% CF.
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