Gigondas and Chateauneuf

Ah, mid-November, a great time for a tasting of hearty southern Rhones, no? It would have been had the temperature not topped 80 degrees here today. Oh well...

• 2007 Domaine de la Becassonne Côtes du Rhône Blanc

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

  Full yellow. Tropical pineapple fruit. Adequate acidity. To me, these wines are triumphant if they avoid heaviness. This one does, so a modest success.

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• 2005 Domaine Raspail-Ay Gigondas

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas

  Fairly deep ruby. Forward, spicy, lavender nose. Medium weight, on the lean side, featuring structure rather than fruit. Very nice, albeit a tad short on the finish and at risk for drying out over time.

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• 2005 Moulin de la Gardette Gigondas La Cuvée Ventabren

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas

  Quite dark color, especially considering how much Grenache is in the blend. Dark fruit, serious but lusher than the Raspail-Ay, real tannic clout. Certainly not an early charmer, but this could be excellent in due time. The best of the 3 Gigondas tasted today.

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• 2006 Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas

  Dark color. Minty with some wood peaking through. Very Provencale palate with olive and herb, but neither as deeply fruited nor as satisfying as the wine that preceded it. Pretty good.

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• 2006 Château Fortia Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Medium to light red (could misktake for Pinot). Floral aromatics. Elegant middle weight feel with lower tannins, but where's the flavor? Disappointingly neutral. Not closed, just no "there" there.

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• 2004 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de mon Aïeul

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Medium color with lighter edges. Sweet red fruit, in fact, the most overt sweetness of all the wines. Medium weight with an elegant feel imparted by lovely raspberry fruit and fine acidity. Some oregano at the end adds complexity. A lighter but very successful Mon Aieul if not one for the ages. Do not bury this at the bottom of the Chateauneuf pile.

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• 2006 Cécile Chassagne Châteauneuf-du-Pape "IDS-Image du Sud"

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Medium color. Classic garrigue nose. Warm and round with delicious, medium weight, complex fruit enlivened by crisp acidity. Falls off somewhat on the finish, but very, very good. First wine I've had from this producer and I liked it a lot.

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• 2006 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Dark and thick looking. Attractive black licorice nose. Same flavor profile with good concentration and medium to full body, but very monochromatic. Is there more complexity that will be revealed here? If not, good at best.

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• 2006 Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Spéciale Les Hautes Brusquières

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Medium color with lighter edges. Fragrant, forward. The red fruit aromatics almost come as a shock after all of the blackberry, licorice, and tar that preceded this wine. Light weight in this context, racy acidity, strawberry fruit. Far and away the most Burgundian wine in this line up. Seductive and lovely, it seems like a good poster child for the best attributes of this vintage.

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• 2006 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Once again, darker ruby, youthful. Thrilling melange of blackberry liqueur, mint, and roasted herbs. In the mouth, quite full and seamless, with licorice, dark fruit, an understated sense of restrained sweetness, and rosemary. Long finish with perfectly round tannins. A veritable essence of Chateauneuf, and for me, the most complete wine of the tasting hands down. Wonderful balance between approachability and ageworthiness.

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