Beringer Cabernets '85-'87 Blindtasted
Palo Alto, California
Tasted Thursday, September 25, 2008 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 655 views
Introduction
Introductory comments by Ross Bott, tasting organizer:
In the second part of our retrospective series, we will focus on the later half of the 1980s. These were the years that the Private Reserve reached top tier status under the guidance of winemaker Ed Sbragia. The 1985, 1986 and 1987 are some of the best Beringer Private Reserve's ever, and have aged effortlessly in the two decades since release, with all of them showing the powerful, rich, cassis- and mineral-laden fruit which made them so compelling when young.
Meanwhile the Knights Valley Cabernets continue to build on their early vintage successes. As the vines developed a few more years of age, the resultant Cabernets were richer and deeper, and I suspect that they will surprise us with their showing tonight vs the Private Reserves. In our first series, the Knights' Valley bottlings came across as more Bordeaux-like than the Private Reserves, but had held up equally well.
1985 Beringer "Private Reserve", Napa Valley (13.5%): "Beringer continues to do everything right. Its staff of talented professionals may rank as the best in the business. Since 1984, its Private Reserve Cabernets have been among the top dozen Cabernets produced in California. Their superior Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons are not likely to stumble over the next several years. The 1985 Private Reserve is a deep, well-structured, highly concentrated wine exhibiting layers of super-ripe blackcurrant fruit backed up by gobs of tannins, plenty of toasty oak, and good acidity." (91/100, Robert Parker) "Massive, ripe, rich and concentrated, with lots of juicy cherry, currant, plum and spice flavors of uncommon depth and complexity. Finishes with a long, full aftertaste and soft, mature tannins. There's a wonderful sweetness and sense of harmony in this wine that is quite compelling.--Cabernet Challenge" (97/100, Robert Parker)
1986 Beringer "Private Reserve", Napa Valley (13.5%): 'My gut feeling is that Beringer's superb 1986 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon has turned out even better than their 1985. Perhaps it is just that the 1986 tastes more forward, but I also thought the super bouquet of this wine and the creamy, expansive, rich, full-bodied flavors had even more dimension than the wonderful 1985. It has a stunning bouquet of ripe, smoky, oaky, berry-scented fruit, extravagantly rich, luscious flavors, and super length. It would appear to have a more multi-dimensional character and a richer, fuller personality than the 1985. Pleasurable now, this gorgeously made Cabernet Sauvignon should continue to offer superlative drinking" (92/100, Robert Parker) "Deliciously rich and concentrated, the layers of herb, mint, cherry and plum flavors are tightly wound together and framed by toasty oak and firm tannins. Elegant and stylish, this beautifully proportioned wine echoes fruit and oak." (95/100, Wine Spectator and Wine of the Year in 1990)
1986 Beringer Knights Valley (13.2%) No review available, but from an outstanding year.
1987 Beringer "Private Reserve", Napa Valley (13.5%): "The 1987 Reserve is a worthy competitor to the terrific 1986. The 1987's dark ruby/garnet color is followed by a super bouquet. There are huge aromas of chocolate, spicy new oak, herbs, cassis and tobacco in this beautifully scented wine. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, voluptuous, spicy, and crammed with fruit, glycerin, and enough tannin to support 15-16 years of cellaring. Like the 1986, the tannins are soft, and, fortunately, the acids are not shrill enough to prevent immediate drinkability. This is a skillfully made, complex Cabernet Sauvignon that will not linger long on retailers' shelves." (93/100, Robert Parker) "Dark, ripe, intense and opulent, this is a remarkably complex and youthful wine. It serves up layers of currant, berry, chocolate, mint, herb and spice, finishing with firm yet supple tannins. Ready to drink, but worthy of cellaring.--1987 California Cabernet horizontal. Best from 2000 through 2010." (97/100, Wine Spectator, Dec 1997)
1987 Beringer Knights Valley (13.2%): "Ripe and intense, with tightly knit, well-focused flavors of rich cherry, plum, herb and currant. The tannins are thick and strong, but not overbearing. Has a full, powerful finish." (90/100, Wine Spectator)
Flight 1 - My TNs: Beringer Flight (5 Notes)
For our second round of tasting mature Beringers, the Private Reserve bottlings all clearly rose to the top. The '87 was the group's #1 and my #2, while the '85 Private Reserve was my #1 and the group's #2. The '86 Private Reserve was third for the group, but was slightly edged out by the '87 Knights Valley for me. The '86 Knights Valley was on the bottom for me and the group, as it was clearly headed down a distant hill. In general these seemed more mature to me than a few of the stars of our prior tasting of earlier vintages.
Flight 2 - Kapcsandy Flight (4 Notes)
One of our tasters, who is currently working for Kapcsandy, favored us with a post-tasting flight of Cabs from that winery, including the not-as-yet-released '03. They were all good, and from a surprisingly young vineyard.
1987 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 92 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Group's #1 (my #2) – 18 pts; 3 1st place vote, 4 2nd place votes, 1 third, 0 last places – Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; mature mushroom, mint and leather nose with a green note; tasty, herbal cassis palate with fine grained and firm tannins; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.
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1985 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 93 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Group's #2 (my #1) – 19 pts; 5 1st place votes, 1 2nd place vote, 1 third, 1 last place – Medium dark red violet color with pale meniscus; lovely, mature-Bordeaux-like nose of tart cassis and minerals, that gets more herbal and vegetal with time in the glass; mature, elegant tart plum, cassis, meat jus, mineral and graphite palate; medium-plus finish
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1986 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 90 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley
Group's #3 (my #4) – 27 pts; 0, 3, 4, 1 – Medium slightly bricking red color with pale meniscus; narrow tannic and tart berry nose; tight, tart cassis, iron and mineral palate; medium finish
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1987 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley 90 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
Group's #4 (my #3) – 30 pts; 1, 1, 2, 1 – Cherry red color with pale meniscus; mature, savory, roast beef jus and pepper nose; tangy, herbal, tart cherry palate with grainy tannins; medium-plus finish 90+ pts.
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1986 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley 83 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
Group's #5 (my #5) – 41 pts; 0, 0, 1, 6 – Medium bricking red color; mature dried mushroom and beef stew nose with slight VA; mature tart leather, red fruit and stewed beef palate, going over the hill; medium finish
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