2000 Chateauneuf du Pape and Aussie GSM Blindtasting

Introductory comments from Ross Bott, our tasting organizer:
The 2000 vintage in Chateauneuf du Pape was a warm, generous one, producing even ripening of all of the key varietals which go into Chateauneuf -- Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah and Cinsault. The wines were rich, fruit forward, and generally not tannic, although the top cuvees were more so, and will last 15-20+ years. As we approach these wines on their eighth birthday, they should be opening up very nicely, with both the Wine Spectator and Robert Parker advocating the peak drinking window starting in 2007 and extending to 2020-2025.

Tonight we will try many of the very best 2000 Chateauneufs, including the Clos des Papes, the Boisrenard from Domaine Beaurenard, the Mon Aieul from Pierre Usseglio, the great Les Quartz from Domaine du Caillou and the Vieux Telegraphe. To keep us honest, I've included two of the better 2000 Grenache blends from Australia for contrast. Here are some tasting notes:

2000 Paul Avril "Clos des Papes" (12.5%): "The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape reveals 14.6% alcohol, and is stylistically similar to the great 1990. The 2000 is open-knit and fat, with higher levels of glycerin as well as a more corpulent style than the structured, backward 2001. A deep ruby/purple color is followed by sweet, black cherry/kirsch liqueur-like notes presented in a voluptuous, full-throttle, intense style. It is already revealing such secondary nuances as pepper, garrigue, and truffles." (95/100, Robert Parker)

2000 Paul Coulon "Boisrenard" (14%): "Immense. Dark and rich, thick and ripe, this serious wine is loaded with black fruit, massive ripe tannins and lots of toasted oak notes heavy with chocolate and mocha accents. Full-bodied and powerful, this is an ager whose minerally terroir?which covers the fruit like a slab of marble?will need time to express itself." (95/100, Wine Spectator)

2000 Pierre Usseglio "Cuvee de Mon Aieul" (14%): "The profound 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul (85% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault) tips the scales at 15% alcohol. From an old vineyard and cropped at 15 hectoliters per hectare, and aged only in foudre, it boasts a dense purple color in addition to an exquisite nose of violets, minerals, blueberries and blackberries. Pure and concentrated, but atypically tannic, it requires considerable aging as it is one of the vintage's more backward, broodingly powerful efforts. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020." (95/100, Robert Parker)

2000 Chateau la Nerthe (12.5%): "Big wine, but so refined and sleek, it comes across as delicate on the palate. Plenty of finely tuned oak, with vanilla, chocolate and mocha aromas that blend into the sweet red and blackberry to produce a classy and satiny wine that is surprisingly aristocratic for this appellation. Like a charming red Burgundy from Chambolle-Musigny." (92/100, Wine Spectator)

2000 Domaine du Caillou "Les Quartz" (14%): "The brilliant 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Quartz is more evolved as well as spicier than the floral, mineral, and black fruit-dominated 2001. Full-bodied, with high glycerin, and a heady concoction of minerals, black raspberries, cherries, blackberries, and licorice, this layered, fruity, pure, well-balanced 2000 has a huge finish of nearly 50 seconds. It is a tour de force in winemaking. Anticipated maturity: now-2016." (94/100, Robert Parker) "Thanks to its beautiful polish this manages to beguile despite a powerful core of raspberry ganache, sweet toast, mineral, violet, mocha, tobacco and aged fruitcake. Long, juicy finish resonates with pure, dark, vivid fruit. Beautiful. Drink now through 2015." (95/100, Wine Spectator)

2000 Vieux Telegraphe "La Crau" (14%): "The elegant 2000 Vieux Telegraphe La Crau possesses 14.8% alcohol, along with a deep ruby/purple color, charming, rich, fruitiness, and firm tannin in the finish. With loads of freshness, copious quantities of pepper, seaweed, and black fruit characteristics, and a distinctive minerality, this full-bodied, sweet 2000 requires 2-3 years of cellaring; it should age well for 15-16 years. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2018." (91/100, Robert Parker)

2000 Turkey Flat "Grenache Noir", Barossa Valley (15%): No ratings available from this cult producer in Australia. From the winemaker: "... displays concentrated dark cherries and plums, overlain with warmth and peppery spices. Smooth lingering tannins balance the richness of the fruit and invite drinking now, or after 5-10 years cellaring."

2000 Burge Family "Olive Hill", Barossa Valley (14.0%): "The 2000 Olive Hill, a proprietary blend of Grenache (21%), Shiraz (48%), and Mourvedre (31%), was aged in one-third new French oak. Like all the Burge Family wines, it reveals great fruit purity and texture. A big, earthy, peppery, black cherry and currant-scented bouquet is followed by a textured, rich, medium to full-bodied red with more spice, leather, and earthy components than are found in the flamboyantly fruity Grenache. It should drink well for a decade." (90/100, Robert Parker)

• 2000 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Caillou Les Quartz 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Group's #1 (my #3) – 59 pts; 3 1st place votes, 3 2nd place votes, 3 thirds, 0 last places – Dark red violet with clear meniscus; stewed plum and tart plum nose with an herbal note and VA; tart black fruit entry, tangy, peppery, black fruit and graphite palate; medium-plus finish

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• 2000 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Group's #2 (my #4) – 68 pts; 2 1st place votes, 3 2nd place votes, 3 thirds, 1 last place – Medium red violet color with pale meniscus and sediment; attractive blackberry, currant, clove and black fruit nose; tangy, stewed black fruit with graphite and good acidity, but more mature tasting than the rest of the flight; medium-plus finish

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• 2000 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Group's #3 (my #2) – 69 pts; 0, 2, 3, 0 – Medium raspberry red color with pale meniscus; nice spicy plum and currant nose; charcoal, graphite, smoky black fruit and sage on palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

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• 2000 Burge Family Olive Hill 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Group's #4 (my #6) – 71 pts; 2, 4, 2, 2 – Dark red violet color, slightly cloudy with sediment and clear edges; rich, spicy plum, berry, berry compote, pepper and graphite nose; the palate is much like the nose, with narrow boysenberry, charcoal and black fruit, young yet; medium finish (48% Shiraz, 31% Mourvedre, 21% Grenache)

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• 2000 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de mon Aïeul 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Group's #5 (my #1) – 80 pts; 4, 0, 1, 4 – Dark red violet with pale meniscus; mature smoky, beef and tangy black fruit nose; sweet dark beef jus palate with garrigue and charcoal; medium-plus finish 95+ pts.

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• 2000 Domaine de Beaurenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Group's #6 (my #7) – 82 pts; 2, 2, 1, 2 – Very dark red violet color with cherry meniscus; intriguing smoky berry, graphite and VA nose; tight, smoky, tangy clove and pepper palate; drying medium finish 91+ pts.

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• 2000 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Group's #7 (my #5) – 83 pts; 2, 0, 2, 3 – Medium violet purple with clear meniscus and slightly cloudy; spicy plum, berry and garrigue nose; tart charcoal, peppery, garrigue, tart plum, young yet, and a little hot; medium finish 92+ pts.

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• 2000 Turkey Flat Grenache 90 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  Group's #8 (my #8) – 100 pts; 1, 1, 1, 4 – Medium red violet color slightly bricking with clear meniscus; big, high pitched boysenberry jam nose; jammy, berry, boysenberry, blueberry and pepper palate, slightly hot; medium-plus finish 90+ pts.

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