Rafa's farewell

Dinner at Terra Rossa to mark the end of Rafa's time in the UK before he moves back to his native Portugal. The (very loose) theme was "wines that Rafa likes", which manifested in a lineup dominated by Iberian and Italian wines. A huge range of styles, too, which made for a highly interesting and informative tasting.

There were two other sweet wines not included here - a2024 Bodegas Ximénez-Spínola Delicado and a 2018 Domaine de Montesquiou Jurançon Grappe d'Or. The former I didn't try, the latter I can't for the life of me remember anything about!

• 2022 Highweald Blanc de Noir 88 Points

  United Kingdom, England, Sussex

  A blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Fresh on the palate, light and easygoing. Lemon, and some redcurrant. There's a chalky minerality to this, too. A good way to kick things off.

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• NV Laherte Frères Champagne Ultradition Brut 90 Points

  France, Champagne

  60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir. Dry, with green apple and citrus. The finish is a touch saline. Very nice. Someone on the table commented that it didn't show character and could have been from any producer. Perhaps it was generic, but it's undoubtedly well made and sometimes that's all you need. My favourite of the sparkling flight.

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• NV Nicola Gatta Cuvée Nature 87 Points

  Italy, Lombardia, Vino da Tavola

  From magnum. Lees ageing of one month. Crisp and acidic, with notes of brioche, nectarine and apricot. Quite ripe fruit. Not really my thing but enjoyable enough on a hot summer evening.

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• 2017 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault Les Narvaux 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  From magnum. Those around the table who had had this wine before commented positively on how this has evolved over the last year or so. Indeed it seemed pretty ready for my palate; fresh and lithe with stone fruit, lemon zest and a flinty mineral note. Really enjoyable and my third favourite of the night (magnums are just better, aren't they?)

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• 2019 Bodegas Rafael Palacios Val do Bibei As Sortes 91 Points

  Spain, Galicia, Val do Bibei

  100% Godello from low yielding sandy, granite soil at 680m altitude. Very aromatic in the glass - pineapple, zesty lemon and nectarine. On the palate it's rich, with a creamy texture and a saline edge to it. Hugely popular around the table (the group's third favourite) but a bit much for me.

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• 2020 Adega da Cartuxa Pêra-Manca Branco 90 Points

  Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo, Évora

  I was very excited to try this Pera Manca; the most prestigious white wine in the Alentejo although very much the junior sibling compared to its red equivalent, at least in terms of price. A blend of Antao Vaz and Arinto. I wasn't sure what to make of this - is it in an awkward phase or did it just stick out against the other whites on the night? It felt on the young side, quite angular and with a slight bitterness. I'd like to spend an evening with this wine as I don't feel like I got my arms around it properly.

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• 2024 Emidio Pepe Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo 90 Points

  Italy, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo

  My first time trying this cult producer. A rosé although it basically pours like a light red, say an Alsatian pinot noir. The palate is dominated by pomegranate, to the extent I struggled to pick much else out, perhaps some cherry and flint. Very drinkable and effervescent, and works well on a warm summer evening but at the prices quoted...not for me, Clive.

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• 2001 Arnaldo-Caprai Montefalco Sagrantino Collepiano 90 Points

  Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Sagrantino

  Even at 25 years old, this is a big old wine. With a touch of volatile acidity too. Still massively tannic, will it ever settle down? This seemed to split the table a bit; I was in the camp that found it a bit too much. Perhaps a wine to appreciate in front of the fireplace on a cold winter evening?

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• 2013 Podere Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione 94 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  From a producer that wasn't really on my radar before, this was a real wow wine. I'd had Salicutti's 2014 Rosso before - notable in that no Brunello was made that year, which is a good sign of the standard of winemaking as few other producers did that in what was a very wet vintage - but I don't recall it being particularly remarkable. This bottle, though, was outstanding, power but with grace and finesse. There is a laser like purity to the red and black cherry fruit. Gorgeous, and very popular around the table. Mine and the group's second favourite. Will be on the lookout for this now.

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• 2010 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Alta Valle della Greve IGT 92 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Alta Valle della Greve IGT

  Always a great value buy this and from the benchmark 2010 vintage this is easing into maturity, showing that typical Sangiovese tanginess albeit in a fairly full throttle style. Fruit tends to the darker end of the spectrum and is complemented by notes of coffee, chocolate and graphite. Feels fairly ready to drink although given my recent experience with the 2004 and 2006 I don't feel in any rush to open my case.

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• 2018 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Alta Valle della Greve IGT 90 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Alta Valle della Greve IGT

  My palate was tiring by this point but, compared to the 2010, this stuck out as being very young, with a noticeable vanilla note from the oak that needs more time to integrate. Good structure here, though and it the 2010 is anything to go by this will blossom nicely with a few more years in bottle. I hope so because I have 12 of them in the cellar!

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• 2006 Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 97 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  From magnum. The nose on this is just stunning, a melange of cherry, rosehip, tomato leaf, tobacco. You almost don't need to drink it. Wow, what a wine. Tim Heaton summarises it best (as always) in his tasting note further below: relentless waves of beauty. Mine and the group's wine of the night, although looking at scores I am a lot more effusive than the other Sangiovese afficionados on the table. Each to their own, of course, but for me Sangiovese doesn't get much better than this. Surely the best wine Paolo de Marchi has ever made. Bravo.

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• 2003 Caparsa Vendemmia Tardiva 90 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Vino da Tavola

  A quite rare Tuscan late harvest dessert wine, made from trebbiano and malvasia grapes left on the vines to overripen. In 2003 there was a late attack of noble rot which allowed the production of this wine. It's quite dry and fresh though there is some candied fruit and dried mango. A bit of smoke as well. Not what I expected at all but interesting to taste.

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