26 Wines at Plumed Horse inc'g mature Barolo and '85 Grand Cru Burgs

The Plumed Horse Restaurant, Saratoga, California
Tasted Saturday, January 19, 2008 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 878 views

Introduction

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David Niederauer put together this extravaganza at the newly reopened Plumed Horse, and Mark Sutherland organized our wines and flights. David ended up providing nearly half of our wines, sneaking them into mystery flights and “intermezzos,” including a triple-blind mystery flight with his own black tasting glasses. As usual when David is involved, there was an excess of great food and amazing wines (26 bottles or so amongst 11 people). The standouts for me, without question, were the fabulous trio of mature Barolos that were wisely positioned at the beginning of the evening, and then a gorgeous quartet of 1985 Grand Cru Burgs. Of the various New World blind entries, I was impressed with the 2005 Jonata Winery Pinot Noir “La Poesia de Jonata” Santa Rita Hills, which was new to me. Foodwise, Chef Peter Armellino’s signature dish—the Black Pepper & Parmesan Cheese Soufflé with Uni & Dungeness Crab Fondue—was my favorite, and I also loved the Prime New York Strip and Oxtail Ragu.

The new version of the Plumed Horse, which has been a Silicon Valley fine dining destination since 1952, includes a very impressive wine cellar and wine list. We didn’t take advantage of the wine list on this outing, but I look forward to making another visit soon to try out the list. The private room was roomy and ideal for an occasion like this. All in all, another fabulous wine and food event with my Silicon Valley wine buddies, and kudos and thanks to David for his generosity and to Mark for his organizational talents.

David and Mark:
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Flight 1 - 1st Flight, w/hors d’oeurves (2 Notes)

Flight 2 - 2nd Flight, w/Risotto FDN (3 Notes)

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  • 1955 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva 96 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Medium brick red color with clear meniscus; deep incense and dried cherry nose; delicious, silky, cherry, dried cherry and roses palate; medium-plus finish (WOTF for the group)

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  • 1961 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Dark garnet red color with pale to clear meniscus; earthy incense, dried cherry, sweet ashes and truffle nose; very tasty, black cherry, cherry plate with sweet, firm tannins, but a little oxidized and started to fade after 15-20 minutes; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

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  • 1964 Fontanafredda Barolo 95 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Light medium brick red color with clear meniscus; dried cherry and porcini mushroom nose; tasty, elegant, dried cherry, sweet red fruit with sap and good acidity; medium-plus finish

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Flight 3 - 3rd Flight, w/Seared Artisan Foie Gras, housemade mustard fruits and salted almond brittle (1 Note)

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Flight 4 - 4th Flight, w/Black Pepper & Parmesan Cheese Soufflé, Uni & Dungeness Crab Fondue (4 Notes)

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A Quartet of White Wines (Double Blind), eventually revealed as ‘99s:
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Flight 5 - 5th Flight – Intermezzo - a Mystery Trio of Wines (Triple Blind, in black glasses) (2 Notes)

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  • 1998 Calera Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard 83 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Mount Harlan

    Orange and lime nose; tart, weird, orange rind, earthy Pinot, with lime and tart red fruit, high acidity and imbalanced; medium finish (guessed Pinot)

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  • 2004 Ojai Sauvignon Blanc Westerly Vineyard 86 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

    Cat pee nose; intense cat pee and grassy, chunky palate with kiwi fruit; short medium finish (guessed Sauvignon Blanc, of course, and probably NZ)

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Flight 6 - 6th flight, w/Alaskan Sablefish wrapped in Speck Ham, Port Wine Jus & Black Truffle Beans (4 Notes)

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A Flight of Mature Burgundy (Double Blind), ultimately revealed as '85 Grand Crus:
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  • 1985 Louis Latour Corton-Grancey 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    Medium red color with clear meniscus; mature rose hips, sappy rose and cherry nose; tasty, rich black cherry and cherry sous bois palate with brown sugar; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

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  • 1985 Pierre Bourée Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Dark medium red with clear meniscus; earthy, merde nose; sweet, mature, tart strawberry with green notes and hint of bark; medium-plus finish

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  • 1985 Louis Latour Romanée St. Vivant Les Quatre Journaux 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

    Brick red color with pale meniscus; sappy black cherry, berry and mineral nose; tasty, concentrated, tart red fruit, cherry, with roses; long finish

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  • 1985 Louis Latour Mazis-Chambertin 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

    Medium red with clear meniscus; cherry, ripe red fruit and soy nose; very tasty, sweet cherry and red fruit palate with velvety mouth feel; medium-plus finish

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Flight 7 - Intermezzo (1 Note)

  • 2006 Bressler Pinot Noir 89 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

    Dark red violet color with pale meniscus; cherry, tart cherry and brown sugar nose; cherry, solid fruit; medium finish

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Flight 8 - 7th Flight, w/Prime New York Strip and Oxtail Ragu (4 Notes)

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“Where In the World” Quartet of Pinot Noir (Double Blind)
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  • 2002 Dry River Pinot Noir 89 Points

    New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough

    Dark red violet color; cherry and black cherry nose; ripe black cherry palate; medium-plus finish

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  • 1999 Calera Pinot Noir Mills Vineyard 87 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Mount Harlan

    Dark red violet color; deep soy, beefy and possibly faulty nose; high acidity, a bit thin, like a NZ Pinot, with a bark note; medium finish

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  • 2002 Kistler Pinot Noir Cuvée Catherine 92 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

    Dark red violet; sappy and intriguing berry and cherry nose; very intriguing, sappy palate of black cherry, pomegranate; medium-plus finish

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  • 2002 Sine Qua Non Pinot Noir Hollerin' M 93 Points

    USA, Oregon, Yamhill County

    Dark red violet; voluptuous cherry and black cherry nose; rich, concentrated, black cherry, cherry, red fruit; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

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Flight 9 - Intermezzo, another mystery red (1 Note)

Flight 10 - 8th Flight, w/dessert, Grand Marnier Soufflé with Yuzu Marmalade (2 Notes)

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Closing

Edward, Jill, General Mgr Joshua, David and Mark:
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Renee and J.R.:
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