Vertical Tasting of Chevillon Nuits Vieilles Vignes
Vin Vino, Palo Alto
Tasted Tuesday, December 23, 2008 by drwine2001 with 688 views
Introduction
These AC wines from an excellent producer with consistent winemaking provided a fascinating barometer of the quality and maturity of the wines in Nuits St. Georges during this time period.
2005 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Clear deep ruby. Bright berry scent/whole cluster fermentation aromas. Medium body, significant acidity and tannin. While it initially is simple and tight, the purity of the fruit is stunning, and it definitely improves, showing incipient natural sweetness and picking up flesh and a strong tone of violets at the back end. Much more impressive than a previous bottle of this wine. It will be excellent.
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2004 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Fairly light and advanced looking with pale brownish rim. Completely different aromatics than the '05, with high pitched evergreen and resin. Light, tart, not much fruit or interest. This only got more vegetal and less appealing over time. Not very reassuring if you believe that these green elements will dissipate with bottle age. The entire '04 Chevillon line up is similarly afflicted. Avoid these even at the current bargain basement prices.
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2003 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges
As deep as the '05 but a browner tinge made it appear slightly more advanced. The deepest aromatic pitch thus far, with ripe fruit and licorice as well as some early secondary perfume. Big, round, and tannic with black fruit and anise. Mouth coating aftertaste. It develops real sappiness as it sits out, yet is not overripe and retains some earthiness in the finish that sets it apart from New World Pinot. Easy to taste and hard not to like. One of the surprises of this series for me in that it had no roasted notes and wasn't the least bit blurry.
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2002 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Medium saturation of color, not that much darker than the '04. Very seductive red fruit nose that screams Burgundy but also whispers southern Rhone with a noticeable herbal element. Some smokiness also appears. Back to a more typical weight and density with bright acid, excellent complexity, and resolving tannins. The most soil-driven wine so far. I must say that I was also surprised by the fact that this is essentially mature. It left me thinking about whether I should take a look at other Cote de Nuits village '02s.
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2001 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Medium red with some browning. Here, menthol leads the aromatic parade, and the fruit is in the background. These are joined by brown spice and iron. Like many things in life, the '01 starts out much better than it finishes. A promising entry is medium weight and round, but the fruit is short and the finish unpleasantly tart. I don't care for the balance or how the components are woven together in this one.
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2000 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Lighter and more brown than either the '01 or '02. A clear step down in intensity with its distant, faintly vegetal nose. Thin, underripe, sour mouth feel with the additional downside of artificial, poorly integrated sweetness which hints of chaptalization. Rapid decline in the glass. Fragile and verging on undrinkable, at least after 20 to 30 minutes in the glass.
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1999 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges
For comparison, deeper in color and less advanced appearing than the '02. This was the first wine to show predominantly more mature, complex Burgundian aromas in which it was more difficult to pick out individual elements. The palate lags the nose though in its degree of development and maturity. A lower acid, medium plus weight wine, it shows beautifully integrated soil and cherry/dark berry fruit but is tannic and clearly needs more time. Beautiful concentration without being chunky. For me, the most complete wine of the group and a fabulous village wine. OK, it is not the most chiseled example of Burgundy, but this is Nuits, not Chambolle. Based upon this sample, I can't wait (but most certainly will wait) to try the Chevillon '99 Premier Crus. In this vintage, I'd bet that this village wine would compare very favorably with some of the lesser Premier Crus.
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1998 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Lightest color of all of these wines along with the '04, yet an unexpectedly meaty, sweet, soil-infused nose. By far, the most mature of the bunch. In contrast to the nose, the palate is delicate, gently sweet with nice minty complexity (like the '01 in this respect), and has higher acid than the '99, which gives it a sharper finish than that wine. Still, it is delicious and exceeded my expectations for the vintage.
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1996 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Quite primary looking-dark with only minimal fading at the extreme edge. Big, structured, tannic wine that seems to be the burliest and most rustic of all of these vintages, but sadly, corked, so unable to further assess.
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1995 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges
Medium ruby with some brown-comparable to the '99. Fragrant and pleasingly complex at first, but then you can almost smell the tannin. Medium body, has some nice red fruit up front, but then it just collapses under the weight of harsh acidity and tannins. Little charm, even less balance.
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