1978-1986 Meursaults Blindtasted

The town of Meursault is the commercial center of what is sometimes known as the "Cotes du Blancs", a predominantly white wine region within the Cotes du Beaune. This small (4 mile long) subregion consists of Meursault, Blagny, Puligny and Chassagne, together comprising most of the top white Burgundy appellations in France.

The vineyards of Meursault itself surround the town, with the premier cru vineyards just to the southwest and the rest of Meursault vineyards (which go into village wines) nearer to the center. There are 13 premier cru vineyards in all, with Les Perrieres, Les Charmes, Les Genevrieres, Les Poruzots, La Gotte d'Or and Les Boucheres the most highly regarded and generally producing the best wines. Meursault-Blagny is not a premier cru vineyard in of itself; it is in fact another subregion of Meursault on the western edge, and contains four of the 13 premier cru vineyards.

There is something special about old Meursults. The acid edge and angular structure which makes them so stern when young provides the foundation to allow the wines to age gracefully for many years. Over that time, the youthful angularity is replaced by layers of wonderful buttery, minerally, vanilla-tinged complexity.

Tonight we'll try eight Meursaults from six different producers spanning 1978 through 1986. Four of the wines are from Les Genevrieres, generally regarding as the second most prized of the 13 premier crus (the first being Perrieres and the third being Charmes). Les Genevrieres comprises 41 acres total and is shared among dozens of domaines, and is named after the juniper bushes which once covered the slope of the vineyard. It is said that Meursaults from Genevrieres can have a faint tinge of juniper in their nose, but I've yet to find one with that. In general, they are some of the longest lived of all Meursaults.

Among the domaines we'll be trying, each has it's signature style: Michelot-Buisson's Meursaults are tight and firm when young, but expand with age into a broad flavor range of ripe lemons, minerals, and sweet pea. Charles Moncaut and Jean Claude Monnier produce classically styled Meursaults with lemony fruit underpinned with lees and a bit of oak vanillin. Jobard veers towards the racy, acidy end of the Meursault spectrum -- almost more Chablis-like than Meursaults. Finally, Philippe Bouzereaus's old Meursaults have notes of hazelnuts and a lovely buttery edge.

Here's the lineup:

1978 Meursault-Charmes, Philippe Bouzereau (12.5%)
1980 Meursault-Blagny, Francois Jobard (12.5%)
1981 Meursault "Les Charmes", Jean Claude Monnier (12.5%)
1982 Meursault "Les Genevrieres", Jean Claude Monnier (12.5%)
1982 Meursault-Genevrieres, Charles Moncaut (12.5%)
1985 Meursault, Raymond Millot (12.5%)
1986 Meursault-Genevrieres, Ballot-Millot (12.5%)
1986 Meursault-Genevrieres, Francois Jobard (12.5%)

• 1986 Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Group's #1 (my #4) – 31 pts; 3 1st place votes, 1 2nd place vote, 0 thirds, 0 last places – Medium gold color; reduction, butter, sweet lemon and honey nose with a slight touch of TCA; tart orange, sherry, tangerine and mineral palate; short-medium finish

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• 1986 Domaine Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Blagny 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Group's #2 (my #2) – 35 pts; 0 1st place votes, 4 2nd place votes, 1 third, 1 last place – Medium dark golden yellow color; mature apple juice, pumpkin spice, almond and hazelnut nose, that changes to an orange creme brulee nose after 30 minutes in the glass; very tart lemon, mineral and almond palate; medium finish 91+ pts.

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• 1986 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Group's #3 (my #1) – 37 pts; 2, 0, 2, 1 – Medium orange gold color; bright, focused, grapefruit, mineral, orange blossom and orange zest nose; youthful tart citrus and mineral palate with depth; medium finish

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• 1978 Château de Citeaux Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 84 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Group's #5 (my #7) – 41 pts; 1, 0, 1, 2 – Medium orange gold color; hazelnut, sherry, oxidized nose; mature, lemon peel, tart citrus, grapefruit and mineral palate; short finish

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• 1981 Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Group's #6 (my #3) – 41 pts; 0, 2, 2, 2 – Medium dark gold color; VA, hazelnut and baked lemon nose; tasty, tart citrus and mineral palate with high acidity; medium finish 89+ pts.

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• 1980 Domaine Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Group's #7 (my #5) – 44 pts; 1, 0, 2, 2 – Medium dark gold color; unusual green, roasted artichoke heart, hickory and smoke nose; tart, mature, hazelnut, mineral and smoky palate; medium finish

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• 1985 Raymond Millot et Fils Meursault 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Group's #8 (my #6) – 52 pts; 0, 0, 1, 0 – Medium golden color; mature, slightly sherried, pear and hazelnut nose; tart lemon, cider, mineral and hazelnut palate; medium finish

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