Martin Weiner Cheval Blanc, Ausone, St. Emilion Tasting

Chez Weiner, Westwood, California
Tasted Friday, September 28, 2007 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 1,314 views

Introduction

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Of course, I had to make the trek down to L.A. to see my Angeleno wine buddies and taste some of the best wines of St. Emilion, thoughtfully selected and assembled for us by Martin Weiner. This tasting was an intriguing mix of more traditional Right Banks alongside newer style St. Emilions – from the always elegant and graceful Cheval Blancs and a ’66 Canon, to the more concentrated and ripe La Mondottes and Pavies, with our Ausones in this tasting straddling both camps. All of the wines were in good shape, with the exception of the ’78 Ausone. The high points for me were the ’00 Cheval Blanc, the ’90 Ausone and the ’83 Cheval Blanc. The latter was particularly revelatory as I usually think of the Margaux and Palmer as stars of that year in Bordeaux, and hadn’t previously tried the wonderful ’83 CB. The ’90 Ausone was gorgeous and still so youthful. The ’00 CB is a powerhouse in an elegant style.

As usual, Martin provided a dinner to complement the wines—rack of New Zealand Spring lamb, vegetables and Chanterelles, and some great cheeses. The ’00 Tertre-Roteboeuf from magnum proved a particularly lovely pairing with our lamb.

Flight 1 - Young St. Emilions (and mystery) (3 Notes)

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  • 2001 Château Valandraud 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Medium raspberry red color; sweet cherry and cassis nose with caramel and pecan; plush, soft, sweet cherry, a little hot and tight yet; medium finish 90+ pts. (continuing to open in the glass after 45 minutes)

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  • 2002 Château Ausone 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Dark red violet color; strong oak, vanilla and cherry nose; tight but sweet red fruit, cherry, with plush mouthfeel and vanilla edges; medium-plus finish 91+ pts.

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  • 1989 Château Angélus 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Mystery wine, eventually revealed as 1989 Angelus – medium red violet color; tart cherry and cassis nose with a touch of cedar; tasty, tart plush red fruit, black fruit, plum palate, with iron, mineral, good structure; medium finish (I properly guessed it as ’89 Angelus, based on the hint that it was a St. Emilion; otherwise, I might have been speculating about which older Left Bank Bordeaux it was)

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Flight 2 - Magnums (2 Notes)

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  • 1999 Château Magdelaine 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    From magnum– dark garnet red color; savory and tart plum nose; tasty, cedar and tart red fruit with minerality and a spicy edge; medium finish 90+ pts.

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  • 2000 Tertre Rôteboeuf 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    From magnum – nearly opaque, dark red violet color; big, roast lamb, herbs, beef jus nose; supple, tasty, mineral, sage, herbs, pepper, tangy and meaty palate; long finish 93+ pts.

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Flight 3 - La Mondotte flight (3 Notes)

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  • 1998 La Mondotte 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Dark red violet color; tart plum with a touch of beef jus nose; plush, tasty, tart plum and cassis palate; medium-plus finish (planted 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc)

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  • 1999 La Mondotte 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Medium red violet; plum and oak nose; focused, concentrated cherry palate, with oak edges, ; medium finish 90+ pts.

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  • 2000 La Mondotte 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Dark red violet color; rich cherry and vanilla nose; concentrated, rich, tart plum and cassis palate with a touch of mineral; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

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Flight 4 - Older St. Emilions (3 Notes)

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  • 1961 Château Belair (Dubois-Challon) 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Medium garnet red color; cedar, cherry and tart cherry nose; in good shape, tart cherry, cedar palate with a touch of horseradish and bell pepper; medium finish 91+ pts. (owned in 1961 by Ausone, and planted 60% to Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc) (good fill)

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  • 1966 Château Canon 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Medium red color with light bricking and pale edges; herbal, tart plum nose; tasty, sweet and tart cherry, red, surprisingly youthful fruit; medium finish (planted 75% to Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc)

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  • 1978 Château Ausone 82 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Murky, brownish red color with clear meniscus; iodine and stewed fruit nose; over the hill palate with tart plum, cedar and dried mushroom; medium finish

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Flight 5 - Cheval Blanc flight (3 Notes)

  • 1983 Château Cheval Blanc 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Light medium garnet red with pale meniscus; shitake and morel mushroom and beef jus nose; tasty, great tertiary flavors, beef jus, with good acidity; long finish 94 pts. (58% Cabernet Franc, 42% Merlot)

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  • 1989 Château Cheval Blanc 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Medium garnet red color with pale meniscus; sexy tart plum and leather nose; solid, cassis, tart red fruit palate with tobacco and a touch of herbaceousness; medium finish

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  • 1999 Château Cheval Blanc 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Medium red violet color; almost primary red fruit and vanilla nose; young, tart red fruit and raspberry with good structure, sweet tannins; medium-plus finish

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Flight 6 - Pavie (3 Notes)

  • 2001 Château Cheval Blanc 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Bright dark red violet color; tobacco, tart red fruit nose; concentrated, structured, tart red fruit, with minerality, elegant; long finish 92+ pts.

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  • 2001 Château Pavie 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Dark red violet color; menthol, tobacco and red fruit nose; tobacco, tart red fruit palate with concentration, for the vintage; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon)

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  • 2000 Château Pavie 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Dark red violet color; port-like, with a little reduction on the nose; concentrated, tart red fruit, cherry, with distinct oak; medium finish

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Flight 7 - Ausones (3 Notes)

  • 1998 Château Ausone 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Dark red violet color; cassis and red fruit nose; tasty, tart red fruit and iron palate; medium-plus finish

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  • 2001 Château Ausone 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Bright violet red color; plum, vanilla and baking spice nose; tart plum and red fruit palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

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  • 2000 Château Magrez Fombrauge 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Sexy lavender and sweet cherry nose; concentrated and rich ripe red fruit and oak palate; medium-plus finish (78% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc)

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Flight 8 - '90 Ausone and Cheval Blanc (3 Notes)

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  • 1990 Château Ausone 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Medium garnet red color; ripe cherry, red fruit, cedar and shitake mushroom nose; tasty, ripe cherry, red fruit, with mushroom edges, young yet; medium-plus finish

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  • 1990 Château Cheval Blanc 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Medium garnet red color; big tobacco and black fruit nose; tobacco, sweet plum, mature palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

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  • 2000 Château Cheval Blanc 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    Dark red violet color; deep, rich concentrated, ripe cherry, black cherry, red fruit; long finish

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Flight 9 - Port (1 Note)

Closing

Rob, Ronny and Richard:
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