Southern Italian Red Blindtasting (Nero d'Avola, Aglianico, Montepulciano)

This was a very exciting tasting. Not only were these deep and flavorful wines, but the quality was also uniformly good across the board. And several—especially the Sicilian contingent—are great values as well. I knew I liked Aglianicos, but I’ve got to explore this whole area more.

If it hadn’t been corked, I’m sure the ’01 Serpico would have led the pack. As it was, even though they noticed the TCA, a couple of us rated it number 1, and it didn’t come in last as the single corked wine usually does. The group’s, and my, number 1 on this night was the 2000 Planeta Sicilia. Sicily also claimed the 2nd spot for the group. All in all, an excellent tasting.

Southern Italian Reds
Introduction by Ross Bott
We often associate Italy with Barolo, Barbaresco, Chianti Classico, Brunello, Soave, and perhaps Amarone. However, the country produces more than 5000 different wines a year, and many of them were almost unknown in the US. This was particularly true of the southern half Italy from the southern edge of Tuscany out through the tip of Sicily. Until the last few years, that may not have mattered too much as most of these wines were pleasant but pretty ordinary and meant to be drunk within a year and within a few kilometers of where they were made.

By the beginning of the 1990s, the landscape began to change dramatically. Innovative winemakers and lots of money began pouring into some of these lesser known areas, and, with better attention paid to the old vines in the fields and to the grapes during winemaking, some remarkable wines began to come out. Many of them are from varietals which are not well known outside of Italy, including Montepulciano (not to be confused with Brunello di Montepulciano or Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which are both named after the town and region of the same name, but made from Sangiovese Grosso), Aglianico and Nero D'Avola. All thrive in the warmer climate of the south of Italy and produce big, rich reds. All three taste quite different from the Cabernets or Pinots or Syrahs that we are used to and make for a refreshing change.

Tonight we'll try eight examples of these three varietals, two Montepulcianos, three Aglianicos and three Nero d'Avolas, made in a variety of styles to give a perspective of what's coming out of southern Italy these days. Included will be two vintages of the outstanding Serpico from Feudi di San Gregorio. Some tasting notes:

MONTEPULCIANO
1999 Di Majo Norante "Don Luiji - Molise" (13.5%): "A superb breakthrough for Di Majo Norante, the 1999 Don Luigi is a barrel-fermented and aged blend of 80% Montepulciano and 20% Tintiua. A monster, opaque purple-colored effort, it reveals a sexy, seductive nose of jammy black fruits combined with smoke, graphite, licorice, and new wood. It is voluptuous, full-bodied, chewy, and loaded with concentrated black fruits. Possessing adequate acidity, ripe tannin, and a multidimensional personality, it represents an amazing achievement for these two varietals." (91/100, Robert Parker)

2000 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Masciarelli "Marina Cvetic" (14.5%): "The 2000 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Marina Cvetic confirms the promise of this vintage in its deep ruby color, jammy plum and wild cherry fruit nose, and rich, caramel and vanilla laced flavors, and it broad, deep, well sustained finish." (92/100, Robert Parker)

AGLIANICO
2001 Serpico Dei Feudi di San Gregorio (14%): "The 2001 Serpico, impenetrable and inky, staggeringly rich in both aroma and flavor, offers ultra-ripe but perfectly fresh berry fruit, cloves, cinnamon, and chocolate, and mouth-coating, deep-pile tactile sensations which combine iron power and a enveloping, voluptuous texture, infinitely deep and long. I would be amazed if this wine did not last thirty years." (98/100, Robert Parker)

2003 Serpico Dei Feudi di San Gregorio (13.5%): "... bright berry fruit, mingled with floral, mineral and sweet tobacco notes. Medium- to full-bodied, with an intense bead of fruit, firm young tannins and a long, untraclean mineral finish." (90/100, Wine Spectator)

2002 Aglianico, Di Majo Norante "Contado" (13.5%): "The 2002 Aglianico Contado (100% Aglianico aged in both foudres and smaller barriques) exhibits terrific minerality along with blueberry, blackberry, graphite, and incense notes. Raspberry flavors are noticeable in the mouth. Good acidity, ripe tannin, and a layered mouthfeel" (90/100, Robert Parker)

NERO D'AVOLA

2000 Sicilia, Colosi (12.5%) (no ratings available)

2001 Sicilia, Morgante (13.5%): "Lovely wine for the money. Round, rich and delicious, with plenty of plum, chocolate and berry character. Full-bodied, with soft tannins and a lightly jammy finish." (Wine Spectator)

2000 Sicilia, Planeta "Santa Cecilia" (14.5%): "From one of Sicily's most fashionable wineries, Planeta's ... internationally-styled 2000 Rosso La Segreta (a blend of 45% Nero d'Avola, 45% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) offers sweet black cherry, mocha, and spice characteristics. Fat, fleshy, pure, and chewy, with 14% alcohol providing plenty of glycerin and texture" (87/100, Robert Parker)

• 2000 Planeta Noto Santa Cecilia 95 Points

  Italy, Sicily, Noto

  Group's #1 (my #1) – 46 pts; 3 firsts, 2 seconds, 2 thirds, 1 last place – dark red violet color; sage, Balsamic, clove nose; intriguing blackberry, boysenberry, white chocolate with core of sweet raspberry syrup and vanilla; medium-plus finish 95+ pts.

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• 2000 Cantine Colosi Sicilia Rosso 93 Points

  Italy, Sicily, Sicilia

  Group's #2 (my #5) – 46 pts; 3, 1, 2, 1 – dark red violet color; giblet gravy nose with sweet plum and cassis; tasty, rich, fruity, tangy plum, fig black fruit and stewed fruit; long finish ($10 on release)

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• 2000 Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Marina Cvetić 93 Points

  Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

  Group's #3 (my #4) – 49 pts; 1, 2, 3, 0 – dark red violet color; sage and herbes de Provence nose; sexy, herbal, herbes de Provence, lavender, charcoal, tart black fruit and pepper; long plus finish 93+ pts.

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• 2001 Morgante Nero d'Avola Sicilia 92 Points

  Italy, Sicily, Sicilia

  Group's #4 (my #6) – 52 pts; 1, 0, 2, 0 – dark red violet color; narrow berries, cranberries and charcoal nose; tasty charcoal and tangy black fruit with poise and balance; medium finish 92+ pts.

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• 1999 Di Majo Norante Molise Don Luigi 94 Points

  Italy, Molise

  Group's #5 (my #3) – 55 pts.; 1, 2, 2, 2 – dark red violet color; charcoal, smoke and plum nose; yummy, savory, tart black fruit and roasted meat with balance, good acidity and delineation; medium-plus finish

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• 2002 Di Majo Norante Aglianico Molise Contado 91 Points

  Italy, Molise

  Group's #7 (my #7) – 62 pts.; 1, 1, 0, 0 – dark red violet color; mulberry, smoke and pepper nose; tangy tart red fruit with herbs, sage, talicherry pepper and minerals, young yet; medium finish 91+ pts.

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• 2003 Feudi di San Gregorio Irpinia Serpico 94 Points

  Italy, Campania, Irpinia

  Group's #8 (my #2) – 68 pts.; 0, 3, 0, 5 – darkest in color, black red violet; intriguing smoky berry and graphite nose; tasty, tart black fruit, charcoal, chocolate and pepper palate with depth and good acidity, should be great in 10 years; medium-plus finish 94+ pts.

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