Impromptu OL: Old Cabs and Other Treats (Yquem, Montrachet, Hugel, Aubert)

l to r: George, Signe, Mark, Richard, Chris and Jonathan

This was one of those impromptu wine dinner gatherings that sometimes turn out exceptionally well, as good or better than the ones that often take weeks to organize. Christopher Larson, in from Minneapolis for the weekend, was a spur for this gathering, as he joined us the night before for George Kautzman's Georges de Latour Private Reserve vertical. Mark Sutherland and Jonathan Dinh were also available, as was George's wife Signe. When, a couple days before our dinner, the San Carlos restaurant we were planning to try started adding conditions to their BYO policy (i.e., only four private cellar bottles per table), Mark quickly arranged things with 231 Ellsworth. There we had a huge table, an excellent tasting menu specially modified for our wines, and the superb wine and food service of Manager and Maitre d’ James Callahan. All that, together, with our own sparkling company and terrific wines, made for a very delightful and memorable "impromptu" evening.

We started with a Champagne from 231 Ellsworth's list. This went well with our amuse bouche, tuna tartare with grilled plum compote.

• NV Pommery Champagne Brut Royal 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  Fresh, nutty, brioche nose; tasty, refreshing, tart sweet grapefruit with strong minerality; long finish (This went well with our amuse bouche, tuna tartare with grilled plum compote.)

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First course: Foie Gras 3 Ways--seared, crème caramel, and torchon--with Mission figs, grilled nectarines, and almond crumble. This was a natural pairing with our 2002 Chateau d'Yquem.

• 2002 Château d'Yquem 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Beautiful orange honey and peach nose; tasty, medium weight orange marmalade and orange honey palate, delicious but lacking a bit of acidity; long finish

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Second course: yellowtail tartare with apricot mango compote and ginger, soy and shiso emulsion. This was a delicious dish, that paired beautifully with our 1998 Hugel Riesling VT.

• 1998 Hugel Riesling Vendange Tardive 93 Points

  France, Alsace

  Golden yellow color; serious petrol nose, with oiliness and lemon zest; very minerally, lemon marmalade palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

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Third course: Pan-roasted lobster, melon-avocado salad, with preserved lemon aioli and tarragon foam. This was a beautifully presented and tasty dish, well supported by our two Chardonnays.

• 1997 Etienne Sauzet Montrachet 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

  light golden color; gorgeous lemon zest and minerals nose; concentrated and profoundly complex palate, with marzipan, caramelized grapefruit skin and minerals; long finish

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• 2004 Aubert Chardonnay Lauren Estate Vineyard 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Lemon, lemon cream and vanilla nose; creamy texture, with concentrated, focused, toasty lemon oil, pear and tropical fruit palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

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4th course: "deconstructed cassoulet" - duck confit with Italian butter beans, plum compote and celery salad. Now it was time for some Pinot.

• 1995 Gros Frère et Sœur Grands-Echezeaux 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Tart cherries and roses nose; tart red fruit, iron and rosehips, with good balance; medium finish 92+ pts.

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• 1999 Erath Pinot Noir La Nuit Magique Erath Vineyards 93 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

  baked cherry and baking spice nose; tart red fruit, baked cherry, very Burgundian, soy sauce; medium-plus finish

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5th course: Seared squab breast and confit leg, purple potatoes, corn fritter, and mole rojo.

• 1985 Ritchie Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District

  Plum and mint nose; mushroom, tart plum, mushroom gravy and mint palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts.

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• 1991 Ritchie Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District

  Cuban cigar, pencil lead nose; tasty tart plum and black fruit palate with soy sauce and tobacco; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

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6th course: roasted lamb loin with artichoke puree, pinenut tuille, and pesto with basil, tarragon, mushroom and Japanese eggplant.

• 1977 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 93 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County

  Sexy beef jus, cedar and caramel nose; tasty, tart and tangy black fruit and plum palate; medium-plus finish

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• 1977 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Rich gravy and black truffle nose; tasty, black fruit and rich porcini mushroom palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

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Cheese course: LaPeral Blue, Blue d'Aubergine, Formaggio di Capra

• 1979 Stony Hill Chardonnay 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Golden orange color; pungent sherry and butter nose; tasty, buttery palate with lemon; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

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Chris and Jonathan:

George and Signe: