Martin Weiner Lafite, Latour and Mouton Tasting–1959-2003

Chez Weiner, Westwood, California
Tasted Friday, April 27, 2007 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 1,108 views

Introduction

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This was a delightful end to a five-month vintage Bordeaux drought for me. I'm thrilled to have so many fellow wine geeks in the Bay Area who are into Burgundy and Riesling, not to mention well-crafted new and old California wines, but I do sometimes miss the Bordeaux-dominated bashes that seem to be a more regular part of the L.A. fine wine world.

Martin put together a terrific lineup for the evening, to which a couple of generous Weiner-tasting regulars added beautifully stored bottles of '82 Mouton and '61 Lafite. My WOTN was the sexy and ethereal '61 Lafite, which was initially poured as a mystery wine. It was closely followed by the '82 Lafite, and then the '59 Latour, which was also in excellent condition and showing very well. Two wines were faulty—a very oxidized '64 Lafite, and a corked '86 Latour—which is, unfortunately, to be expected in a field of 25 mostly well aged bottles.

The 2003 Lafite and Leoville las Cases concerned me in that they were big, concentrated, mocha oak fruit bombs, that tasted more like recent vintages of Pavie or any number of over-engineered high-end California Cabs than they did first-growth Bordeaux. I want Bordeaux character, structure and ageability in my top Bordeaux, not Pride or Foley Claret wannabees. At least the '03 Lafite had the depth and consistency of fruit to hold its own against the toasted oak; the Leoville was quite overwhelmed by it. The '85 Lafite, Mouton and Latour were all wonderful, and the '75 Mouton and Lafite were holding up well, with the Lafite having a touch more complexity and a longer finish. And how wonderful to revisit both the '82 Mouton and Lafite in the same evening. All in all, a lovely return visit to old friends, both the gang in L.A. and top Bordeaux from great vintages.

As usual, Martin provided a dinner to complement the wines—rack of New Zealand Spring lamb and vegetables, and some great cheeses. But the focus was all on our top Medocs.

Flight 1 - Flight 1 (3 Notes)

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  • 1994 Château Lafite Rothschild 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Mushroom, leather nose; tasty, tart olive, tangy tart red fruit and leather palate, tight yet but with good acid; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (100% Cabernet in '94)

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  • 1998 Château Latour Grand Vin 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Tight leather nose; very tight on palate, with tart plum and red fruit, concentration, sweet tannins, needs another 7 years plus; medium-plus finish 89+ pts.

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  • 1993 Château Mouton Rothschild 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Nice, mature iron and dried cherry nose; tasty mature tart cherry and iron palate with olive note, high acid and firm tannins; medium finish 92+ pts.

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Flight 2 - Flight 2 (3 Notes)

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  • 2003 Château Léoville Las Cases 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

    Mushroom and caramel popcorn nose; tasty, bright raspberry and red fruit with too pronounced buttered popcorn oak edges; medium-plus finish 90+ pts.

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  • 1995 Château Latour Grand Vin 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Sexy, earthy, mushroom and beef nose; somewhat mature tasting, mushroom and tart black fruit with good acidity and an iodine note; long finish

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  • 1998 Château Lafite Rothschild 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Focused black fruit and plum nose; tasty, focused cassis and tart cherry palate with sweet tannins; medium-plus finish

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Flight 3 - Flight 3 (4 Notes)

  • 1964 Château Latour Grand Vin Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Port-like, raisiny nose; oxidized on palate, with port-like sweet cherry fruit and medium oxidized finish (mid-shoulder fill gave a warning)

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  • 1981 Château Lafite Rothschild 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Very mushroomy, shitake and porcini, nose; tasty mature but elegant dried cherry and iron palate; long finish

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  • 2000 Château Duhart-Milon 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Big olive, herbaceous, black fruit nose; black fruit and mocha with caramel oak edges, sweet tannins; medium finish

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  • 1961 Château Lafite Rothschild 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Nice leathery, mushroom nose; great, very tasty, cherry, cassis, ethereal fruit; long finish 96+ pts.

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Flight 4 - Flight 4 (2 Notes)

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  • 1988 Château Latour Grand Vin 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Earthy, spicy, porcini mushroom nose; tasty, plush red fruit, iron, cassis, with good balance; medium-plus finish 93+ pts.

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  • 1985 Château Latour Grand Vin 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Shitake mushroom, leather and earthy nose; tasty, plush, tart red fruit, pencil lead, cherry, coffee; long finish 94+ pts.

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Flight 5 - Flight 5 (3 Notes)

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  • 1975 Château Mouton Rothschild 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Plummy, mushroom nose; tasty, elegant, plummy, with tart red fruit and mushroom notes; medium finish

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  • 1975 Château Lafite Rothschild 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Lovely beefy leather nose; deep black fruit, lavender, plum palate, with sweet persistent tannins; long finish

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  • 1976 Château Lafite Rothschild 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Rich tobacco, leather nose; very mature, sweet cassis, with leather and tobacco notes; medium-plus finish (broke down after 30 minutes in the glass)

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Flight 6 - Flight 6 - 1985s (2 Notes)

  • 1985 Château Mouton Rothschild 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Cassis, mint, pencil lead and tobacco nose; very tasty, focused cassis, mushroom and tobacco palate; balanced; medium-plus finish 94+ pts.

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  • 1985 Château Lafite Rothschild 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Tobacco, graphite nose; tasty, elegant, tart red fruit, cassis, mushroom, with sweet tannins; medium-plus finish

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Flight 7 - Flight 7 (3 Notes)

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  • 2003 Château Lafite Rothschild 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Big mocha, espresso, tobacco nose; tasty, tart black fruit, roasted plum, espresso; long finish. Fun to drink, but more like a 2000 Pavie than a classic Lafite for me.

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  • 1986 Château Mouton Rothschild 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Shitake mushroom, tobacco nose; tight yet, tart red fruit, cranberry, sweet tannins; long finish

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  • 1982 Château Mouton Rothschild 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Shitake mushroom, leather nose; lovely mature, rich, mushroom, leather, shitake; long finish

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Flight 8 - Flight 8 (3 Notes)

  • 1996 Château Lafite Rothschild 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Rich cassis and mushroom nose; plush soft cassis, mushroom, mocha and herbaceous note; medium-plus finish 94+ pts. (still going strong after 2 hours in the glass)

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  • 1982 Château Lafite Rothschild 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Leather, mushroom nose; tart and tangy red fruit, fig, mushroom; long finish

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  • 1959 Château Latour Grand Vin 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Mushroom and cherry nose; lovely, youthful, rounded cassis, red fruit, with sweet tannins; medium-plus finish 95+ pts.

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Flight 9 - Sweetie (1 Note)

  • 1988 Château Climens 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Coconut and dried apricot nose; yummy, coconut, rich apricot and orange rind palate; long finish 93+ pts.

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Closing

Robert and Jola
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Traci, Virginia and Richard
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