’03 and ’04 Sonoma Coast (mostly) Pinot Noir Blindtasting

Introduction by tasting organizer Ross B.

One of the most actively developed appellations in California today is the Sonoma Coast. Dozens of new vineyards are being planted each year, with almost all of the plantings focused on the Pinot Noir varietal. The reason for this growth is around the Sonoma Coast's cool climate and varied soil and terrain, perhaps the closest match that California has to the French Burgundy region.

The already established vineyards such as Hirsch and Coastlands have been producing for almost two decades, but they have now been joined by a huge flock of younger vineyards which are already producing very promising wines. Tonight we'll try eight Sonoma Coast Pinots from the 2003 and
2004 vintages from several top Pinot specialists. Here's the lineup:

2004 Kosta Browne Russian River (15.2%): (95/100, Wine Spectator)
2004 Rivers-Marie "Summa Vineyard", Sonoma Coast (14.1%): "This is noticeably riper with better aromatic complexity on the more deeply pitched, smoky and beautifully nuanced aromas that introduce the equally ripe, sweet and rich flavors that are moderately extracted but not aggressive, culminating in a masculine, firm and powerful finish that retains a fine sense of definition. This is a robust and fruit-driven wine yet one that displays ample depth and there is nothing simple about it. Moreover, given the structure and quality of the raw materials, I suspect that additional complexity is on the way with time in bottle." (90/100, Burghound)
2004 Williams Selyem, Sonoma Coast (13.8%): "Trim, compact and delicate, with detailed cherry, mineral, sage, herb and plum flavors shaded by a hint of toasty oak on the finish. Drink now through 2010." (90/100, Wine Spectator)
2004 Aubin "Verve", Sonoma Coast (14.5%): One of the discoveries of the last Pinot Days, this is a hot new Pinot specialists. Made by Jerome Aubin, a Frenchman with Burgundy roots, this has the feel of a premier cru Cotes du Beaune.
2003 Siduri "Hirsch Vineyard", Sonoma Coast (14.9%): 'Medium ruby in color, yet intense and concentrated, with a tight, firm focus on zesty wild berry and black cherry fruit. Complex and deftly balanced, it offers hints of exotic spice, wilted rose and pepper, while avoiding excesses, offering a tapered finish and excellent structure. Drink now through 2009." (91/100, Wine Spectator)
2004 Siduri "Hirsch Vineyard", Sonoma Coast (14.2%): "A distinctive style, ripe and racy, with vivid acidity and fresh, vibrant wild berry and raspberry flavors, turning elegant and cleansing on the finish. Drink now through 2009." (92/100, Wine Spectator)
2003 Siduri "Sonatera Vineyard", Sonoma Coast (14.4%): This was Siduri's first vintage using the Sonatera Vineyard. It has a wild spicy streak characteristic of the most terroir-driven Sonoma Coast vineyards and shows promise for a vineyard which will deliver very distinctive wines.
2004 Siduri "Sonatera Vineyard", Sonoma Coast (14.8%): "From the Sonoma Coast, the dense ruby-colored 2004 Pinot Noir Sonatera Vineyard offers sweet scents of black cherries, blackberries, spice, and earth. Broad, rich, medium to full-bodied, velvety-textured, and opulent, it should drink well for a decade." (91/100, Robert Parker)

The pre-tasting wine we started with—'05 La Crema Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast—is an excellent value wine, selling for $18 at Costco, and, hopefully, an indicator of great '05 Pinots to come.

• 2005 La Crema Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Ripe raspberry, strawberry nose; juicy rich sweet red fruit with caramel and brown sugar edges and good grip; medium-plus finish (virtually always a good value)

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I was struck by the big, and generally excellent, noses on most of these wines. Although the group ranked the Kosta Browne as its number 2, it was my last place, and I found it hard to drink much of. The most Burgundian, the '03 Siduri Hirsch Vineyard, was my number one. The '04 Aubin "Verve" was also very good, and worth seeking out.

• 2004 Siduri Pinot Noir Sonatera Vineyard 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Group's #1 (my #3) – 49 pts; 4, 3, 2, 0 – medium red black color; darker, ripe cherry and raspberry nose; deep, good grip, medium weight, strawberry fruit balanced oak, medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (needs four or five years)

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• 2004 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 82 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Group's #2 (my #8) – 63 pts; 3, 2, 2, 1 – deep black red color; big tart cherry, VA and balsamic nose; sweet entry with cloying oak and over-the-top ripe cherry; medium-plus finish (hard to drink very much of)

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• 2004 Aubin Cellars Pinot Noir Verve Sonoma Coast 93 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  medium red black color; intriguing, sharply delineated ripe berry, boysenberry, tangy nose; juicy entry, nicely tart, big cherry and red fruit, with oak edges; long finish

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• 2004 Siduri Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Medium red black color; essence of brown sugar and some ripe cherry on nose; big, sweet entry with ripe cherry fruit, although some green at the edges (that became more green, and green beanish, as it sat in the glass), good acid sweet tannins; medium finish

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• 2004 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Summa Vineyard 90 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Group's #5 (my #4) – 68 pts.; 1, 3, 3, 2 – medium red black color; entrancing tart cherry pie nose, very enticing; ripe cherry, good sap, good acid too, but lacking complexity; medium finish

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• 2003 Siduri Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard 94 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Group's #6 (my #1) – 72 pts.; 2, 1, 1, 2 – lovely red color, faintly cloudy though; intriguing ripe raspberry nose; delicious elegant, tart cherry and red fruit good sap, wonderful flavors on mid-palate and edges; medium-plus haunting finish

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• 2004 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 84 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Light red black color; oaky nose with a little sweet strawberry; odd, oaky red fruit palate; tart medium finish

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Tom and Paul