Souverain Cabernet Sauvignons blindtasted (1970-1993)

Introductory notes by tasting organizer Ross B.
The history of Souverain begins in 1944, when J. Leland ("Lee") Stewart made his first wine from his vineyards on Howell Mountain. Over the next couple decades, he became one of the legends of the California wine industry, helping to pioneer the making of individual varietal bottlings (he was one of the first to produce varietal Zinfandels, Petite Sirahs, and Johannisberg Rieslings). He pushed for oak-aged Chardonnays in the style of French Burgundies, at a time when most in California will still producing stainless steel versions.

His daughter suggested the name Souverain, after the French word for "sovereign" or "supreme". In the late 1960s and early 1970s, Stewart produced a series of benchmark Cabernets which help to establish Napa Valley as the destination place for that varietal; the 1968 and 1970 Souverain Cabernets are legendary.

In 1973, Stewart sold the winery to Pillsbury, and it was moved to Alexander Valley, where estate vineyards were planted that eventually became the main source of grapes for the winery. The twin towered building that still is the home to the winery and an on-site restaurant was opened in 1974, and won several architectural awards. Pillsbury sold to a group of investors in 1976, who continued the development of the winery before selling to Nestles in 1986, the same year that Lee Stewart died at the age of 82; this was also the year that Nestles added "Chateau" to the Souverain name. In 1996, Beringer Winery (formerly also owned by Nestles before going private in a buyout led by the Texas Pacific Group) acquired Souverain.

Souverain has gone through three eras in their wine development. The first, the "Stewart era", ended in 1974, the last vintage that Stewart was actively involved with the wines. The winery then went through a quiet stretch between 1975 and 1989 before dramatically improving in quality starting in the 1990 vintage and continuing until today. Ed Killian, the current winemaker, joined in 1992, and has been instrumental in this turnaround.

Tonight we'll try eight vintages of Souverain Cabernet Sauvignons, including two made by Lee Stewart and five from the post-1990 era.

Good deep garnet color on all of these, lighter meniscus. Nice, sweet Cali Cabs with clear ageability. Hard to distinguish some of them for rankings. Generally medium finishes except the '93 (medium-plus finish)

• 1993 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Aged 93 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

  Group's #1 (my #1) – 32 pts; 3 1st place votes, 1 2nd place votes, 2 thirds, 0 last places – Nice caramel and sweet red fruit nose; tightish, spicy, tart cherry and red fruit palate with medium-plus finish

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• 1991 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

  Group's #2 (my #3) – 32 pts; 1 1st place vote, 3 2nd place votes, 2 thirds, 0 last places – Lovely dried and ripe cherry and sandalwood nose; rich, ripe plum and cherry palate with hints of leather and firm but sweet tannins; short-medium finish

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• 1991 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon Special Select 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

  Group's #3 (my #4) – 35 pts; 3, 1, 1, 0 – Vanilla oak, lovely balsamic, aromatic and earthy nose, like an old Barolo; tasty, solid, ripe cherry, mint, much like the '90; tangy medium finish

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• 1992 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon Winemaker's Reserve 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

  Group's #4 (my #2) – 39 pts; 0, 3, 1, 0 – Leather and tobacco nose; tasty, solid, rich cherry palate with sweet, grainy tannins; medium finish 92+ pts.

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• 1980 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 85 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

  Group's #5 (my #8) – 51 pts; 1, 1, 1, 1 – iodine and stewed fruit nose; stewed fruit with depth, sweetness and medium heavy palate with green bean notes; medium finish

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• 1974 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon Vintage Select 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

  Group's #6 (my #5) – 55 pts; 1, 0, 0, 1 – vanilla oak and cherry nose; rich, medium heavy palate with tart and tangy red fruit, sweet edges; medium finish (weakens over time in glass) 91+ pts.

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• 1990 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 90 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

  Group's #7 (my #7) – 57 pts; 0, 0, 2, 3 – beefy, iodine and balsamic nose; concentrated, solid, tart cherry palate with balsamic and tangy notes; short-medium finish

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• 1970 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley

  Group's #8 (my #6) – 61 pts; 1, 1, 0, 5 – stewed plum, barnyard, cherry and a little tar on nose (barnyard blows off over time, yielding to a touch of rhubarb); tart plum, red fruit, leather and iodine palate; medium dried cherry finish

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