TWC does Paso Robles & Santa Barbara

River Run Farm, Tulsa, OK
Tasted Saturday, September 10, 2005 by mdstenner with 863 views

Introduction

Instead of covering the obvious - Pinots and Chards from Santa Barbara and Rhône varietals from Paso Robles - I thought it would be fun to look at some of the undiscovered gems from the two regions, with wines from producers, that Andrew Murray apart, most of the tasting group would not be familiar with. A rather warm evening greeted the group but we were soon underway with some delicious thirst quenching white wines that got the evening off to a wonderful start.

Flight 1 - White Rhône Varietals (3 Notes)

Overall, an excellent flight with the Hugo holding its own with the wines from Andrew Murray. The Murray Viognier was complex and of most interest, but for immediate gratification the Hugo would be hard to beat. Lots of fruit, acidity and all in perfect balance.

  • 2004 Victor Hugo Viognier 91 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    An outstanding Viognier very much in the New World style. Bright straw colors with a rich, citrusy nose of peach and orange bloom. In the mouth the wine is medium-bodied with rich flavors of orange peel, honeysuckle and peach . There is excellent balance and a good finish.

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  • 2003 Andrew Murray Viognier 91 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

    Straw color. A very forward nose of honeysuckle, grapefruit (surprising) and pineapple - I was expecting something more lush and less citrussy but the surprise was a pleasant one. Deliciously complex in the mouth and the wine certainly evolved in the glass over 30 minutes. Flavors of honeysuckle, apricot and hints of peach wafted across the palate. A beautiful, impeccably made wine with bright acid flavors, superb fruit, and a satisfying, lingering finish.

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  • 2003 Andrew Murray Enchante White 87 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

    Less impressive than the 2003 Viognier. 60% Roussanne, 40% Marsanne. Straw, with some light gold hints. A simple nose of melon and honeysuckle that never really intrigues, with a simple, one dimensional palate of melon and apricot. As the wine warms there was a spicier, more interesting element. The wine was well balanced but never hit that higher gear that I expect from Andrew Murray.

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Flight 2 - Lighter styled red wines (5 Notes)

A mix and match of styles that showed very well overall. The Opolo was the clear stand-out showing more finesse and style than the others.

  • 2002 Midnight Cellars Full Moon Red 85 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    Blend of Syrah, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon. Clearly a glugging wine, but no worse for that. Medium ruby in color, with a nose of strawberry jam, with spicy and smoky elements. Quite supple and spicy in the mouth with medium-bodied and rather simple flavors of strawberry and red fruit preserves. Fruity and quaffable.

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  • 2002 Maloy O'Neill Gioi 89 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    A Sangiovese dominated blend. Dark ruby, with a ripe nose of black cherry, that softens over time and reveals more nuanced notes of cold tea and prunes. A quite engaging wine with riper fruit than a representative Italian Sangiovese. Lots of rich black cherry in the attack with softer red fruits in the background. The good acidity and balance make this well made wine excellent with food.

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  • 2003 Opolo Zinfandel Summit Creek 92 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    Dark ruby color with a nose of bright spicy cherry. Very forward and fruity in the mouth, with lots of spicy fruits - blackberry, raspberry and other red berries. This isn't so much brambly and briary but cooly spicy. A charming, elegant medium-bodied Zinfandel with a delicious finish that sneaks up on you and charms you more the longer the wine sits in the glass.

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  • 2003 Robert Hall Rhone De Robles 88 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Counoise. Ruby color, with an enticing nose of black pepper, spicy blackberry and hints of blueberry. The wine is very round and creamy in the mouth, with fruity flavors of blackberry and pepper. I enjoyed this much more than I expected to.

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  • 2002 Andrew Murray Espérance 88 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast

    Garnet in color with a nose laden with spicy red fruits - strawberry surprisingly strong - with cinnamon, black cherry, black pepper and blueberry (from the oak) that explodes from the glass. A delicious, medium-bodied wine with black cherries, clove and cinnamon on the palate. A quite charming wine.

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Flight 3 - Bordeaux Blends from Paso Robles (4 Notes)

A very mixed bag with two very good wines and two wines that were simply outclassed. The Maloy has been a joy to drink. This was my third bottle in a year and while it shows little development it is drinking superbly with copious fruit, soft tannins and great style. A veritable bargain.

  • 2002 Victor Hugo The Hunchback 84 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    44% Cabernet Franc, 32% Malbec, and 24% Petit Verdot. Ruby red with a nose of raspberry jam. Becomes a little better with air with some tobacco notes. Raspberry and plum dominate the palate with soft tannins and good acidity. Sweet ripe fruit but all in all rather anonymous.

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  • 2000 Carmody McKnight Cadenza 90 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    50% Cabernet Franc, 36% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon. Garnet in color. From the grape composition you'd expect something very aromatic and this wine certainly delivers. It's a rich opulent nose of black currants, black cherry and red fruits. It's very polished and supple in the mouth with more rich, concentrated fruits - like blackberries - with velvety tannins, and a very smooth finish. A big, bold, rich wine that should find many admirers.

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  • 2000 Carmody McKnight Cabernet Sauvignon 82 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    Dark ruby, with a muted nose of blackcurrant. Riper fruit is evident in the mouth with black currant, spicy cherry. Possibly a dud bottle as there is some elegance but the wine was lacking much in the way of distinction and pedigree. Very dull.

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  • 2001 Maloy O'Neill Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 92 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    Superb stuff. Garnet color, with a nose of blackcurrant, tobacco, ripe fruits and hints of blackberry. The wine is vibrant and richly satisfying on the palate with sweet tannins, lovely acidity and a streak of minerality. This has all I adore in a forward Californian Cabernet - it is rich and creamy without being over-oaked with rich blackcurrant flavors, some hints of leather and tobacco, and a sumptuous finish.

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Flight 4 - Syrah/Petite Sirah (3 Notes)

The Tantara remains a mystery. Will the wine come together? The Hugo Petite Sirah needs time.

  • 2002 Le Vigne Syrah 86 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    Ruby/garnet color, with a spicy soft nose of blackberry. More blueberry than blackberry flavors on the palate with supple tannins, a spicy mid-palate and then a dry finish. Soundly made if rather unexciting.

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  • 2002 Victor Hugo Petite Sirah 91 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    Almost black in color, with an oaky spicy nose dominated by wave after wave of blackberry. A tight core of fruit is surrounded by ripping tannins and good dose of acidity that leads to a long, dry finish. Far too early to drink this wine. A good decant and a few years in the cellar should lead to something altogether more civilized and wondrous.

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  • 2002 Dominion Tantara Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard 90 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley

    Garnet in color with a big funky nose of spicy black fruits and a rather worrisome heat in the finish. The flavors were somewhat tart and sharp but quite excellent nonetheless - a reaction perhaps to the overtly fruity wines that had come before. Complex flavors were in evidence though - with pepper, spice, herbs, garrigue and olives to the fore. The wine clearly needs another 1-2 years to fully integrate and the heat in the finish again is worrisome. Possibly a '90 pointer' + in the future if all of the components can pull themselves together. The wine certainly improved over the thirty minutes it was in the glass.

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Flight 5 - Dessert Wine (1 Note)

Not in the class of the Aussie stickies and somewhat over-priced for what it delivers but not a bad wine by any means and a good way to end an evening that had a lot of very nice wines.

  • NV Midnight Cellars Gemini Port 88 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    Very dark color (garnet) with a rich, ripe nose of raisin and blackberry. The wine is warm and spicy in the mouth with very sweet black and red fruits. A blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Zinfandel.

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Closing

All in all, from 16 wines, an excellent tasting of wines that were chiefly in the $20-35 range (the Tantara was the only wine over $35 and I thought offered poor value for $50). It would be difficult to make generalizations about the two regions based on such a small sampling of wines but it is clear the future is very bright. There is clearly no shortage of attractive, soundly made wines for the lover of the fruity, slightly jammy, sweet style of red wine. Loves of Paso Robles should not ignore wines from the less sexy East - the Maloy showing the high quality of fruit that comes from here.

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