Großes Gewächs 2007

Trestle on Tenth
Tasted Wednesday, January 21, 2009 by Keith Levenberg with 840 views

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

Flight 2 (2 Notes)

Flight 3 (2 Notes)

  • 2007 Weingut Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs 92 Points

    Germany, Rheinhessen

    A fresh cucumber-like scent combined with something deeper and less familiar, like forestal rot. More linear and maybe purer than the Hubacker and also more emphatically dry on the back end. Both Kellers are trading more on purity and less on textural dynamism than the other GG's today. I think I understand where the sauvignon blanc comparison in the other note is coming from.

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  • 2007 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs 93 Points

    Germany, Rheinhessen

    Starts out much quieter though sharper on the nose than the Kirchspiel, but it really blooms in the glass and by the end is much more expressive, combining the freshness of the Kirchspiel with something more savory, like something deliciously seasoned roasting in the kitchen. Freshness remains the main theme and the finish feels like it practically trails ice crystals.

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

Flight 5 (2 Notes)

  • 2007 Schäfer-Fröhlich Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    Wow -- acute and palpably piercing. Way more tensile and cooler in profile than the Enrich Schonleber rendition. The sheer torque of the Schäfer-Fröhlichs totally overpowers the flights on either side. I don't know what that means for normal consumption but in this context I'm impressed.

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  • 2007 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 95 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    Starts out with a similar profile to the Halenberg but the more you come back to it the more this one manages to distinguish itself. It has more stoniness, a more insistent texture, and is basically more complex all around, but there's more to it than that; it even seems to have a stronger sense of toughness.

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Flight 6 (2 Notes)

  • 2007 Dönnhoff Dellchen Riesling Großes Gewächs 88 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    Both Dönnhoff GG's suffered seriously after the Schafer-Frohlichs, partially because they're calmer but also because they were just less nteresting. This has a grapefruity profile that's tarter and more fruit-juicy than the Hermannshöhle.

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  • 2007 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs 90 Points

    Germany, Nahe

    My second taste of this wine in the last few weeks, so maybe an interesting control to show how much the excitement of the Schafer-Frohlichs managed to overpower the wines that followed, since this doesn't perform nearly as well (or at all the same) as I remember. It's more open-knit than the wines before, and not so different than the Dellchen on entry -- but then the fruit profile reveals a fleshier, pear-like material and it finishes with a more interesting chalkiness.

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