Falltacular 2009

For California Pinot Noir, 2007 looks to be a strong year. Exhibiting some of the opulent ripeness of 2004 and the refined elegance of 2005, 2007 should be a welcome post-partisan response to lovers of all things Pinot. It was a vintage that allowed winemakers to make the kind of Pinot that they wanted and not just have to deal with the vintage they were dealt, which was the case (for many) in the very warm 2004 and the very soggy 2006.

On January 24, 2009, I got a brief glimpse of some 2007 Pinots, as well as a smattering of 2005s and 2006s. The standout producers, to my mind, are August West and Clos Pepe. The August West Rosella’s was not only my WOTD, but also many others; the two bottles at the tasting were quickly drained amongst a huddled mass of oohs and ahhs. The Clos Pepe Estate proved that one does not have to be in your face in order to be noticed; this wine was all about power and grace. I was also very impressed with Brian Loring’s offerings this year, and I think this latest batch of Pinot may be his best yet.

Some disappointments this year included Melville and, to a lesser extent, Siduri. While I am typically a huge fan of Melville Pinots, I wonder about their stylistic choices. For example, while the estate bottling sees very little oak, their small lot bottlings see a lot of whole-cluster inclusion. The result is a very candied expression of Pinot in the estate and a stemmy and earthy red Burg wannabe in the small lots. As for Siduri, I am not quite sure what to make of them yet. I was expecting to be blown away by their Pisoni and Rosella’s Pinots, but upon tasting them, I found them just to be very good. Both wines seemed very restrained to me, so perhaps they are still in the throes of bottle shock. Only time will tell.

Of course, the final verdict on 2007 remains to be seen. This was just a sneak preview. But based upon what I have already tasted, this is definitely a performance I want to watch.

• NV Yann Alexandre Champagne Grande Réserve Courmas 89 Points

  France, Champagne

  This Champagne tasted a bit older than it perhaps is. In place of green apples and yeast are baked apples and bread crust, with crushed minerals and lemon curd rounding out the palate. A nice sparkler from a relatively unknown producer (at least to me). 89-90 points.

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• 2007 Tercero Grenache Blanc Camp 4 Vineyard 89 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

  This wine showed better -- sleeker and more vibrant -- than the previous time I tasted it (about 6 months ago). Refreshing notes of nectarines and lemon custard. Good acidity provides balance to the richness of the fruit.

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• 2005 Ampelos Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills 90 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

  What happens when you bring a 2005 to a 2007 battle? Well, it's a little like bringing a shotgun to a pistol duel. In this case, I was the one who was blown away. Vibrant and pure notes of Bing cherries, ripe strawberries, and crushed minerals -- just delicious. My notes say, "Straight up good!" 90-91 points.

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• 2007 Armonie Cellars Pinot Noir Split Rock Vineyard 87 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  A very ripe expression of this sight. Notes of raisins, black plums, black cherries, and hard spices. Large scaled and quite intense on the palate.

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• 2007 August West Pinot Noir Graham Family Vineyard 90 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Compared to the Rosella's, this Pinot came across as less approachable and more aggressive on the palate. Notes of black cherries, black raspberries, and wet soil. Dense and compact with a slightly gravelly finish. Has promise, but needs more time at this point.

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• 2007 August West Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard 93 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

  This was one of the wines I was most interested in tasting, and I was not disappointed! Notes of strawberry preserves, black cherries, raspberry coulee, and hard spices. Rich, deep, and decadent on the palate. This wine is like a smart and sexy brunette -- quite the keeper! My WOTD.

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• 2006 Black Kite Pinot Noir Kite's Rest 88 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Fruity and easy to drink with cheerful notes of bright cherries, watermelon, and shadings of sous bois. Not terribly complex, but I did very much like the mouthfeel, which I found rather supple and light. 88-89 points.

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• 2006 Black Kite Pinot Noir Stony Terrace 91 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  I liked this much better than when I tasted it at Pinot Days. Complex notes of black cherries, raspberries, sandlewood, leather, and crushed minerals. A polished wine that is very lithe and elegant on the palate.

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• 2007 Clos Pepe Estate Pinot Noir 92 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

  This wine is, to my mind, the benchmark for SRH Pinot Noir. Elegant notes of black cherries, pomegranates, cinnamon, citrus rind, and crushed minerals. Refined and balanced.

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• 2005 Joseph Swan Vineyards Pinot Noir Saralee's Vineyard 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Another 2005 showstealer. This wine is in a very good place right now. Bright notes of red cherries, strawberries, and raspberries. Forest floor lingers on the finish. Lightweight and restrained on the palate. 91-92 points.

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• 2007 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch Vineyard 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  My notes say, "How Pinot Noir should taste." Pure and vibrant notes of black cherries, fresh raspberries, baking spices, and just a hint of earth.

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• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Aubaine Vineyard 91 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Arroyo Grande Valley

  Ripe and concentrated with a broad palate of black cherries, boysenberries, red licorice. Excellent!

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• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Durell Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  This wine came across as the "sweetest" of the Loring line-up I tasted today. Notes of cherry pie filling, boysenberries, and vanillin oak. Creamy and lithe on the palate, but seems to need just a touch more acid.

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• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard 89 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

  Notes of black cherries and orange peel. Pure and focused with a bright texture and long finish. 89-90 points.

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• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Graham Family Vineyard 90 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Green Valley of Russian River Valley

  Plush notes of dark cherries, black plums, and black raspberries. Soft on the palate with a nice lingering finish.

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• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard 91 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

  I have always like the Rosella's from Brian, and this wine is no exception. Bright notes of sour cherries, crushed raspberries, plum skin, citrus peel, and baking spices. Zesty on the palate with a nice long clean finish. Very refreshing! 91-92 points.

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• 2007 Loring Wine Company Pinot Noir Russell Family Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

  Ripe and full on the palate with notes of black cherries, boysenberries, and a touch of candied orange peel. Very easy to drink. 88-89 points.

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• 2007 Melville Pinot Noir Estate 86 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

  I'm not exactly sure what to think of this wine, as I am usually a fan of Melville Pinots. This one, however, came across as very candied, very primary, almost as if it saw barely any oak at all. A quick look at their website confirms my impressions, as it says that this wine saw only 16% new French oak. In any case, this cheerful little fruit punch of a wine came across very extroverted, yet rather simple, with youthful cherry fruit and sea shell notes. 86-87 points.

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• 2004 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's 86 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

  Although the nose was opulent and rich with notes of black raspberries and chocolate-covered cherries, the palate seemed overdone, slightly coarse, and more herbal than I remembered a year ago. LB said it tasted a little like salsa. I'm not exactly sure if this wine was flawed, but something did not seem entirely right with this wine. The nose is a winner, but the palate seemed a little off. The best of two bottles. 86-87 points.

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• 2007 Melville Pinot Noir Carrie's 89 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

  I think this wine holds a lot of promise, as I have always really enjoyed the Carrie's, but right now the 65% whole cluster notes are dominating the wine. With swirling, one is able to coax out notes of Bing cherry, Asian pickled plums, wet soil, and hard spices. Not at opulent as previous years, this wine conveys a certain sense of old world gravitas that is reminscent of Burgundy. 89-90 points.

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• 2007 P2 Wine Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard 91 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, McMinnville

  I remain to be convinced fully of Oregon's greatness, but I did very much like this wine. Complex and savory notes of bacon, baking spices, dark cherries, and plums. Nice acidity and a mineral-laced finish. 91-92 points.

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• 2007 Seawind Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard 90 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

  Fruit foward notes of tart cherries and raspberry coulee. Full on the palate with a citrus peel finish. 90-91 points.

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• 2007 Seawind Pinot Noir Split Rock Vineyard 89 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Notes of sweet cherries, strawberries, red plums, and pomegranate. Fruit forward, soft on the palate, and easy to drink.

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• 2007 Siduri Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Opens with some reductive aromas, but after some swirling I was able to coax out notes of sweet cherry pie filling, new leather, and sea shells. A really nice, if somewhat different, expression of the site compared to Keefer Ranch. 88-89 points.

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• 2007 Siduri Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard 89 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

  I am a huge fan of Pisoni fruit but realize that it does not always show its potential at such a young stage. Rich and syrupy with notes of black cherries, red plums, Asian pickled plums, and oak spice. Needs much more time in the bottle.

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• 2007 Siduri Pinot Noir Rosella's Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

  I found this wine a little curious as I was not expecting it to be so restrained and delicate. Earthy notes of sweet tobacco, cranberries, red cherries, clay and hard spices.

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• 2007 Sojourn Pinot Noir Demuth Vineyard Anderson Valley 85 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  This wine is not due to be released until the fall of 2009, so perhaps it is still a work in progress. But as it is, it came across a bit rough. Whole cluster notes dominate the nose, with earth, dried cherries, and tree bark on the palate. If New World Pinot is your thing, then this is probably not your wine. On the other hand, red Burgundy lovers should rejoice!

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• 2006 Tercero Cuvée Christie 88 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

  My impressions of this wine are pretty similar to the last time I tasted it. Rustic notes of raspberries, hard spices, minerals, tree bark, and peppercorns. Fleshy on the palate with a firm tannic grip. 88-89 points.

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• 2007 Tercero Grenache Camp 4 Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

  I believe this was a barrel sample. Rustic notes of black raspberries, cassis, garrigue, and peppercorns. Bold on the attack, then turns bright on the midpalate and finish.

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• 2007 Terra Novus Pinot Noir Split Rock Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  This bottle threw off significant reduction, even after giving it the Mollydooker shake. Notes of black cherry, plums, smoke, and tar. Tasted closer to my first bottle than my most recent one. 88-89 points.

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• 2004 Vergari Pinot Noir DuNah Vineyard 87 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Earthy and smokey notes of cooked cherry reduction, tanned leather, and red clay. I can see this wine going really well with food.

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• 2005 Vergari Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  This wine showed better than when I tasted it at Family Winemakers a year ago. Sauvage notes of red cherries, strawberries, earth, and red clay. Soft on the palate.

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• 2006 Vergari Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard 86 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  I think wine is pretty typical of the 2006 vintage for the region. A beam of bright cherry and blueberry fruit on the attack, but rather underdeveloped on midpalate and finish.

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• 2006 Switchback Ridge Petite Sirah Peterson Family Vineyard 91 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  This was actually the first wine I tasted today. Wow, what a way to begin! Concentrated notes of boysenberries, blackberries, white pepper, loamy earth and dried herbs. In spite of its density, it was surprisingly sleek and sinewy on the palate. In contrast to the 2005, which I found beautiful and voluptuous, this 2006 comes across as taut and well-toned. A Petite with abs!

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