Dinner with Clair and Paul

Our friends Clair and Paul came over for dinner, so I threw together something quick and scrumptious. This was sort of a 'last hurrah' of so many ingredients that I have been enjoying all summer: heirloom tomatoes, fresh Halibut, and loads of wild mushrooms.

When they arrived we nibbled on some cheese and sipped this gorgeous, young Riesling. We continued with the same wine as we sat down for some lovely heirloom tomatoes with basil and a little fresh mozzarella.

• 2002 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese 93 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Wow, this wine is not messing around. Clearly young and fairly closed, this still wows with salty slatey notes, slathered in gorgeous acidity and with a brilliant richness of fruit and haunting minerality. I have 1/3 of a bottle left and am eager to see how this opens up.

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The main course was a plate with seared halibut in a lightly caramelized peach/habanero glaze. The lightly piquant flavors complement the halibut so well, but the taste is subtle enough to be wine friendly. Accompanying the halibut I served some sauteed Lacinato kale and a terrine of sauteed polenta rounds, arugula, loads of sauteed wild mushrooms, drizzle lightly with balsamic and layered with a small amount of grated Parmesan. Yummy! The Beaucastel was a last minute cellar grab, as I had treated Paul to a 1990 once before and wanted to show him an older vintage.

• 1983 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Wow, I wasn't expecting a ton from the recently purchased bottle, but it was great. A solid cork and great fill were encouraging, although the wine looked more like a Pinot than a CNDP. When first opened, the wine had a pretty distinct 'sweaty' element, clearly a bit animal but with less of the usual barnyard than I am used to for Beau. The palate was initially quite muscular and almost stern with waves of black olive tapenade and licorice. However, with 30 miniutes of air this opened up gorgeously to yield tea-leaf, gorgeous garrigue (Provencale herbs), some hints of cherry and mineral. The palate also softened a fair amount to show a beautifully mature yet still structured wine, elegant, complex and delicious. Wowza, what a treat!

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Long after dinner I sipped the last of the Beaucastel with the remaining cheese, and the wine didn't fade in the least, unreal!