Club Tasting 4: The Wines of Champagne

Both Champagne tastings were wonderful in terms of conversation and enthusiasm. The highlight for me was partway through the second tasting when I cited Parker's claim that tartaric acid crystals are harmless, and MS blurted out "but Parker's a dumbass!" That took some resolution.

Most of these were ~$40, with the exception of the Billecart-Salmon ($90).

• NV Jean Velut Champagne 78 Points

  France, Champagne

  Pale gold in the glass, this had a tight nose of light pear, yeast, and faint grapefruit. In the mouth it was light bodied with medium- small bubbles, more light yeast, pear, tart high malic acid. Overall lean and acidic. Hints of acetaldehyde on the dregs.

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• NV Jean Velut Champagne Blanc de Blancs 79 Points

  France, Champagne

  Pale gold in the glass, a slightly fruitier nose than the first wine, with light baguette interior, overripe apple, pear skins, and ripe pear. Medium- bubbles, a little richer and rounder on the palate.

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• NV R. Dumont et Fils Champagne Brut Nature 85 Points

  France, Champagne

  Pale gold-amber in the glass, this wine had a nose of yeast, pear, and faint starfruit. In the mouth it sported a fine mousse, with high- malic acid and a lightly honeyed finish. 83-85

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• NV José Michel & Fils Champagne Brut Pinot Meunier 81 Points

  France, Champagne

  Pale gold in the glass. Nose of plum skins, raspberries, and light yeast. Med- sweetness, rounder and deeper, with ok med+ acid. 80-83

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• NV R. Dumont et Fils Champagne Brut Rosé 82 Points

  France, Champagne

  Pale pink/amber in the glass. Nose of light yeast, light apple, raspberries, plum skins. Low+ bitterness, med- sweetness/roundness. Very fine bubbles. 82-4.

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• NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé 86 Points

  France, Champagne

  Very pale pink-orange (salmon?) in the glass. Nose of light yeast, pinot funk, cut grass. Fine sparkly bubbles (a TON of them - maybe too much), ripe pear with creamy mousse. Nice and tasty. 86-88.

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• NV Delavenne Pere et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé 86 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  med- pink in the glass. Strongest yeast on the nose of any of the wines. Palate: brioche, sweet, round, creamy, and delicious. 84-6

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Overall the wines were very pleasant, but given the prices, I'd have to say I was not impressed. The razor-sharp acidity was there in several, but it wasn't a clean, salivation-inducing acidity like I've had in some Sancerre's, Rieslings, and CA viogniers. Instead it was a tart, mouth-puckering acidity that registered as "sour" in my brain and didn't quite leave my mouth. I wonder if this is due to malic (as opposed to tartaric) acid, given that Champagne doesn't undergo malo usually.

Also, my acetaldehyde alarm bells were on the verge of ringing the whole night, what with all the apple and pear tones. Luckily we only got one truly oxidized bottle... and the cork was suspiciously defective.