Martin Weiner Burgundy Extravaganza (La Tache, Richebourg, Bonnes Mares, Clos de la Roche)
Chez Weiner, Westwood, California
Tasted Friday, February 13, 2009 by rjonwine@gmail.com with 2,550 views
Introduction
This was the beginning of my "DRC Weekend" in Los Angeles, which I thought was a very appropriate way to spend the Valentine's Day weekend for a Burgundy lover like me. My fellow Burgundy lover Martin always gathers an impressive sampling of wines for his tastings. This evening was no exception, since we had the chance to compare Richebourgs from four top producers, including DRC; Clos de la Roche from three different producers; Bonnes Mares from four producers, including a three-vintage vertical of Vogüé; and a total of six bottles of DRC. While I expected a lot from the Richebourgs and La Taches, the surprise wines of the night for me at this tasting were both Bonnes Mares: the '78 Groffier version and the exquisite '02 Comte de Vogüé. I had tried the '78 Groffier Bonnes Mares before and enjoyed it, but this was really an exceptional bottle, in very good shape, delivering all the elegance, complexity and subtlety one could hope for from a mature Grand Cru Burg.
Flight 1 - 1st Flight (3 Notes)
The '02 Liger-Belair Richebourg was easily the WOTF, even though it needs at least a few more years of bottle age.
Flight 2 - Clos de la Roche Flight (3 Notes)
The special barrel selection Dominique Laurent was clearly superior to our two Girardin samples, and showing quite well, even at this early stage.
Flight 3 - Bonnes Mares Flight (3 Notes)
The Dujac was a little disappointing for me in this flight, but is probably representative of the '96 vintage and how it is developing. The '99 Jadot is showing very well now; the '03 Le Moine is still a baby, but should be quite good in a few years.
Flight 4 - Vogüé Bonnes Mares Flight (3 Notes)
Wonderful Bonnes Mares, from one of my favorite producers. All were good, but the very youthful '02 is particularly outstanding, and will only get greater with time.
Flight 5 - Richebourg Flight (2 Notes)
The '03 Grivot was definitely too young and is going through an awkward childhood at this point. The Meo-Camuzet had a peculiar nose and palate, and may well have been faulty in some way. I would love to try another bottle.
Flight 6 - DRC Richebourg Flight (3 Notes)
These were all good wines, but I've had better DRC Richebourg from other vintages. The '76 is quite mature, and not getting any better. The '95 and '00 both need five or more years before they are showing their full potential.
Flight 7 - blind Pinot interlude (1 Note)
We weren't told for sure if this was Pinot, or where it was from. So I guessed Sea Smoke or a neighbor of Sea Smoke on this one, and it did turn out to be an SLH Pinot, one that Martin thought had shown the best at an SLH tradetasting the prior week.
Flight 8 - Flight 8 (3 Notes)
The Girardin Corton, an outlier Grand Cru for this tasting, thrown in as a blind wine for a little comparison, was, not surprisingly, greatly outclassed by the Leroy and Groffier in this flight. As mentioned above, the '78 Groffier BM was my WOTN.
Flight 9 - DRC Finale (3 Notes)
We ended with a comparison of DRC Richebourg and La Tache from the same, challenging, vintage, and an even older La Tache. The latter, the '67, was definitely on the decline, and faded quickly in the glass. The two '83s were very much on par with each other, although this particular bottle of Richebourg was showing somewhat greater complexity than our bottle of La Tache.
Closing
Michael, Martin and Robert
1998 Louis Jadot Clos de la Roche 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Bricking garnet red color with pale meniscus; mature mushroom, chlorine and tart red fruit nose with a slight amount of TCA at first that fully bloomed after 20 minutes in the glass; tart mature red fruit, with light tobacco, rosehips and sous bois, with good acidity and grip; medium finish
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1997 Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Darker bricking medium red color with clear meniscus; tart chery nose with light beef jus; tasty, tart red fruit, rosehips and mineral palate with grip, firm tannins; medium finish 90+ pts.
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2002 Thibault Liger-Belair Richebourg 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Medium cherry red color with pale meniscus; intriguing berry, earthy and herb nose with a touch of spice box; detailed, rounded tart cherry, tart raspberry, berry and sous bois palate with depth and integrated oak; medium finish (needs 3-5 more years)
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