Wednesday Night Burgs
Tasted Wednesday, March 18, 2009 by Dave Dalluge with 786 views
Introduction
Craig Vanderah put a small group together for some Burgs at Heidi's. Craig and I were joined by Siggy and Chris Larson.
Flight 1 - Round #1 -- Heidi's (6 Notes)
Heidi's was in top form through many rounds of appetizers when we heard a loud crash in the kitchen. Shortly after this we were informed that the restaurant would be closing. Something about the new oven in the kitchen triggering the fire alarm system and covering the kitchen in foam. We lingered for awhile to finish up the wines that were nearly finished and then packed up the rest to head downtown to La Belle Vie for dinner in the lounge. Friends of Craig's were dining a few tables away, and after the kitchen closed we shared a few glasses of wine with each other.
Flight 2 - Round #2 -- La Belle Vie (3 Notes)
The lounge was very quiet (at least until we showed up). Dinner consisted of frites, lamb burgers and a rabbit Bolognese -- a decent enough pairing for the Burgs. The new scene seemed to re-invigorate everyone so I pulled the mystery wine I had hidden in my tote and challenged the guys to name the wine. As usual, it's much harder than you would think.
Closing
WOTN for me was the '07 Dauvissat Les Clos. It pains me, given all the great reds we had, but my affinity for this wine was instantaneous. As usual, it was great to reconnect with everyone.
2007 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 97 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
One of Craig's contribution and this was extraordinary. Soaring nose dominated by citrus fruits but delivering layers of complexity. Even better in the mouth with a steely, jazzy personality. Concentrated, mouth-coating fruit balanced deftly by structure/acidity. Flavors really ping the taste buds and the finish seems to go on forever. For me this was WOTN and one I will need to seek out.
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NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Cuvée Sainte Anne 88 Points
France, Champagne
Hard to downshift from the Dauvissat to this (Chris was a late arrival which staggered the order). Nose of bread dough, mineral, lemon, honey and mineral, but in a funky, rustic style that contrasted dramatically with the elegance of the Dauvissat. In the mouth this comes across a little fat with dense fruit but very little acidity. Might have shown better if served first, but not a great champagne for my taste.
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2002 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Popped and poured. A delightful wine. Complex nose of red fruit, earth/fungus and iron. On the palate this is barely mid-weight but with good flavor intensity and excellent balance. Fans of bigger wines should probably avoid this because it's extremely understated and subtle. Properly paired with the right dish, however, this would show even better.
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2003 Gérard Raphet Clos de la Roche 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Paired with the '02 Mugnier and they couldn't have been any more different. The nose give ripe and sweet aromas of cherry and strawberry in a clean, precocious style. In the mouth this delivers concentrated red fruit that bordered on overripe coupled with sweet licorice flavors. Dense and layered. Finishes very strongly. Surprisingly good. Maybe I should have paid more attention to the '03s.
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2003 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
A small pour courtesy of some friends at the next table. Big, one-dimensional nose reminiscent to me of a typical California chardonnay with hints of honey and smoke. In the mouth this is dense and fat and I would say somewhat unyielding. The finish is drying but with great length. A huge step down from the '07 Les Clos, but fun to try.
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1996 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
A very small pour courtesy of some friends at the next table. The nose shows as rough and rustic with ripe red fruit, brown sugar, earth, and spice. In the mouth this has great weight and a more elegant texture. Tannin is totally resolved, but there is a surprisingly high level of acidity that comes to dominate near the finish. Seems like this might be one to drink up over the next few years.
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