1997 Barolo Retrospective (3 wines)

My wife and I visited some friends in New Buffalo last weekend and we all decided on a theme of 1997 Italian wines for the weekend. Friday night was 1997 Brunellos with steaks and Saturday was 1997 Barolos with lasagna. The menu on Saturday was simple. A salad to start with and then my wifes homemade lasagna made in a meaty, heavier style. Delicious. We opened 3 1997 Barolos with dinner. My opinion was that the Brunellos the night before were better overall although the Ceretto Brunate was my red wine of the weekend. We followed dinner up with assorted pastries which we purchased at "A bit of Swiss" bakery in Stevensville, Michigan earlier in the day. Anyone in the Harbor Country of Southwest Michigan should seek out this bakery. Outstanding. They won a prestigious French award for their baking a few years back (can't recall the award but the large trophy is on display in the bakery). Here are my notes on the wines:

• 1997 Parusso Barolo Piccole Vigne 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  I brought this wine to Michigan. This was the second time I have had it with the last being in 2002 when it was released. I just don't see the original 95 points that James Suckling gave this wine on release and think it is closer to the 90 score that the WA gave it. In December 2007, James Suckling did a retrospective on 1997 Barolo's and gave this wine a 92 which is certainly more in line with what I think. Solid but approachable tannins. A dry internationally styled Barolo. This was decanted for about 3 hours. The nose was filled with cedar. The wine got better with air. Notes of rose petal, plum and currant. Full bodied. The Ceretto Brunate blew this away though. 91 points.

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• 1997 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Barolo Brunate 96 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Opened by our host in Michigan. 2nd time I have had this. The first time was on release in 2002 when I gave it 91 points. What a wine this has become. A classic in my opinion. It has everything you would want in a great Barolo. Decanted for 3 hours. Lighter brickish red color. Firm but juicy tannins. This was the most mature of the 3 1997 Barolos but still had plenty of life left in it. Notes of charcoal, wet earth, black cherry, tar. Plenty of fruit and a long finish. Excellent depth and good secondary nuances. 96 points.

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• 1997 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Opened by Mark. I was expecting more from this wine based upon the expert scores (WS94, WA93, IWC93). Dark red color. The darkest of the 3 1997 Barolo opened. A round texture with rich fruit and notes of lavender, roses and cherries. Medium bodied. This was a modern styled Barolo which could use some additional aging. 91-92 points.

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VM