2006 Chevillon

I'm sorry that Cailles and Les St. Georges were not offered, but based upon what was here, I'd be surprised if they were not great.

• 2006 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges

  Meaty, somewhat tangy nose. Surprisingly berry like, sappy fruit upfront with a dip and a rapid transition to a more dusty tannic finish with good acidity. Not the most harmonious wine, but very good concentration and material for a Chevillon VV.

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• 2006 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Lots of high toned florality and evergreen here. Excellent red fruit of great purity in a lighter weight package. Gently tannic finish with some earth and loam at the end. Elegant and quite seductive. Above its place in the Chevillon hierarchy.

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• 2006 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Redolent of meat, red fruit, and anise. Sweet entry, a step up in weight compared to the Bousselots, fine tannins and black licorice on finish. This picks up weight and sap as it goes. Very refined with a beautifully balanced feel to it. Outperformed my expectations based upon past vintages.

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• 2006 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Notably, the palest colored wine in the tasting. Pretty aromatics dominated by earth. This is clearly the least fruit driven wine, but it is soil infused with crisp acidity. It does have a punch of tannins at the end which leaves an astringent feel. I wonder about the balance of this in the long run, since of all the wines, it starts with the least fruit.

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• 2006 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Roncières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  And this, along with the Vaucrains, is the darkest wine. Lower pitched nose with some briary black fruit like a Savigny. By far the roundest wine although the blackberry/blueberry fruit does not come across as sweet as in some of the others. Relatively simple compared to the others with markedly less perceptible acid and tannin, but I must say that the forward fruit is very appealing.

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• 2006 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Slight reductive aromas but the most striking thing is a much deeper green streak than any of the other wines. Not nearly as rich as the Roncieres, in fact, a markedly leaner black fruit profile with earth, acidity, and more biting tannins strongly asserting themselves late. The most severely structured wine in the portfolio and very Nuits. The quality of the tannins here make me think of a touch of rot or unripe stems.

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• 2006 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Already has a complex, ravishing nose. Oh my, this synthesizes the best elements of all the wines and is incredibly complete. Gorgeous, sappy, ripe fruit with striking blueberry compote qualities alongside wonderful acid/tannin structure. Not too big and shows all of this with a sense of restraint and more to come with time. Outstanding and one of the few standouts I've tasted so far from this vintage.

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Wow, this was the best series of Burgundies I've tasted through in a while. Why? Because it caused me to seriously reconsider some of my opinions about this vintage, because the elegance and balance of Chevillon win me over to a commune I do not generally love, because the wines were so beautifully differentiated, and because the less regarded wines were marvelous. This is an enormously impressive collection!